Last year Oregon got rid of the dyno emissions test and replaced it with an idle test. I just failed the new Oregon emissions test (idle & 2500 rpm in neutral), miserably (HC and CO were 4x higher than the limits). This surprised me since my motor only has 17k on it and the same motor passed with flying colors two years ago under the old emissions test (dyno test/treadmill). Supposedly, the new emissions test is easier to pass than the old test.

Anyone else have encounters with the new emissions test? Know of any good tricks beyond the regular tune up stuff (plugs & wires, air filter, etc)?

 

do they still have to get a tach signal for the test, or do they just run it off the dash tach? i just really dont want them to open my hood...

 

If a ported, single turbo, FD with Greddy Ti can pass, so can you!

-Cat with air inlet hose
-Electric air pump

They need to be able to read rpms, they don't need to open the hood. they can hook in directly through a cigarette lighter outlet.

My hood release is broken. They never opened my hood.

~CYD

 

Thanks. How about fuel additives?

BTW the operator simply asked me if I had a tach, and then asked me to hold the revs at 2500 rpm.

-Eric

 

I ended up buying a SAFC after having my motor rebuilt to get it to pass, once I got that on and calibrated it passed the first time through. You can get them for about 150 on ebay and it is also to help with performance as well. So give that a try, if you get one and need help installing it let me know.

 

Thanks, I forgot to mention that I already have a SAFC installed. I run it quite lean at idle (-18%), but enrich 5% at 3krpm. Honestly, I didn't expect her to ask me to raise the idle to 2500 rpm, so I had not leaned out the car for that setting. Still, the hydrocarbon limit is 220 and my car came in at over 800 (big time fail). To me these numbers sound like either a serious ignition issue or a bad cat. Do you think SAFC settings can have that big of an impact? I'm probably going to replace the cat, since mine is two years old and they never seem to last long enough (Bonez highflow cat).

 

mine was in the thousands before i put that safc on, so from my experience yes it can make that big of a difference, you also might want to make sure that your tps is working right, mine wasnt working right so we had to adjust the throttle to make up for how off the tps was. so you might want to keep that in mind before spending hundreds of dollars on a cat, which seems awfully low for two years. Mine older then that so I cant see it being your cat.

 

"mine was in the thousands before i put that safc on, so from my experience yes it can make that big of a difference"

Great, I'll try leaning out the SAFC. My TPS is in check. BTW, did you do the new idle test, or were your numbers from the older treadmill test? TIA

-Eric

 

Have you checked your cat lately? It could very well have died over the last two years. I was having the same problem with a Mitsubishi Eclipse. New catalytic converter on that guy and the emissions at idle read almost 0.

 

that was from their new test last october so it was within the last six months. the one thing that is a problem with those things is they are not calibrated to handle the rotory motor. So we have to play with our cars so that the piston freaks dont have to. there are just too few of us to make a difference. it sucks that our vehicle set ups are so different but they cant seem to update their freakin machines. by the way the information i am giving you is just somethings that Rob from Pineapple was clarifying to me. the rotories are just special. love them rorories. hey are you going to the drive on saturday, if so see you there. shout me out......

 

ahh oregon ...so you went through oregons TSI test huh.....its ok dude..i had 1780 HC on idle....hahaha....good thing i work at emissions.

Your best bet is to lean it out with your SAFC..or even run methanol if you can....the 220HC limit is state standerd for any vehicle that engine size doesnt exceed 4999cc. So your **** out of luck there.

 

Seriously, consider the electric air pump ($130). You pay for it once and be done with it...

I had 4 gallons of denatured alcohol, and I was ready to lean it out, but I didn't even get the opportunity as I passed with the highflow cat and the air/smog pump. The passing numbers were very low for both. Btw, if you want my "ethanol/denatured alcohol" let me know. Cost me $7/gallon, it's yours for $3.50/gal ;D

 

For the record, the denatured alcohol trick baaaaaarely helps. If you're failing that bad then you have bigger problems to worry about.

 

Thanks everyone for all the input. I'll let you know what worked for me when I pass!

 

did you keep your motor at 2500rpm when you were waiting the line for deq, keeping the cat nice and warm hella helps.

 

I did keep my rpms up, around 2k while waiting in line. I went for a 30 minute spirited drive beforehand but, unfortunately, the line was about an hour long!

 

Hour long wait?? Drive out to the DEQ testing station off of HWY 26 and Cornelius Pass...Longest wait I've had was about 20 minutes...

When I went in to test, I drove the 10 minute distance out the testing center, waited behind one car for about 10 min, then rolled up and tested. I didn't keep rpms up, heat up the cat or anything.

1- I had a tail pipe silencer
2- I had a in-pipe butterfly silencer after the cat.
3- Highflow Cat
4- Electric Smog pump/Air pump running to highflow cat

Here's my thread about emissions in OR...

 

My 7 passed with flying colors... and It didn't pass for **** for 6 years on the old dyno OR emissions test....

 

With no smog pump or anything! I was happy as hell... Because it wasn't suppose to pass

 

A 3rd gen?!