need microtech help (Lake Stevens,WA)
03-08-14, 11:28 PM
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need microtech help (Lake Stevens,WA)
As the title states, i am in need of some microtech install help. The wiring is about 90% done. I am just having a bit of trouble with the fuel relay and finishing up. I'd also like to rewire the fuel pump in the process. I have diagrams and info, im just overloaded and need set straight. I have no spare money, but can help with house work (did remodeling and painting) I am also a massage therapist. Anything helps guys.
I am located in Lake Stevens, WA near Everett, Snohomish, Marysville. Willing to give a ride. I just miss my 7!
Thanks everyone!
I am located in Lake Stevens, WA near Everett, Snohomish, Marysville. Willing to give a ride. I just miss my 7!
Thanks everyone!
03-09-14, 01:10 PM
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Basically I just want to fully understand these diagrams and what I need to do to hook it up to microtech.
http://stanis.net/2010/07/mazda-rx-7...ewire-diagram/
http://rx7.freeservers.com/modhb/rewire.htm
Thanks for your help man
http://stanis.net/2010/07/mazda-rx-7...ewire-diagram/
http://rx7.freeservers.com/modhb/rewire.htm
Thanks for your help man
03-09-14, 07:01 PM
#7
neither of those diagrams are going to work easily with the microtech.
You need a standard automotive relay, and hook it up like this:
Pin 87: 14 or 12 AWG wire from battery, with 15A fuse.
Pin 30: To fuel pump positive (blue wire in stock fuel pump harness) Also needs to be at least 14AWG
Pin 86: To microtech fuel pump pin (green wire in microtech harness)
Pin 85: to any +12V wire that is on when key in in 'run'. You can wire to the pink wire in the Microtech harness if you want, which is the switched +12V input.
Note that you can switch 87 with 30, or 85 with 86, so don't be confused if you see a diagram with them opposite.
Once you have that all set up, you will also have to make sure that the black wire in the fuel pump harness goes to ground. I usually just cut the wires near the pump, run the black wire to a nearby screw on the body, and run the blue to to relay. Make sure you tape up the other end of the wires as they might still be hot.
If you wire it this way you can throw away the stock fuel pump resistor/relay stuff.
Here is the microtech diagram, you should be able to just follow this:
http://microtechefi.com/download/LT8_13B%20STDw.pdf
Pat
You need a standard automotive relay, and hook it up like this:
Pin 87: 14 or 12 AWG wire from battery, with 15A fuse.
Pin 30: To fuel pump positive (blue wire in stock fuel pump harness) Also needs to be at least 14AWG
Pin 86: To microtech fuel pump pin (green wire in microtech harness)
Pin 85: to any +12V wire that is on when key in in 'run'. You can wire to the pink wire in the Microtech harness if you want, which is the switched +12V input.
Note that you can switch 87 with 30, or 85 with 86, so don't be confused if you see a diagram with them opposite.
Once you have that all set up, you will also have to make sure that the black wire in the fuel pump harness goes to ground. I usually just cut the wires near the pump, run the black wire to a nearby screw on the body, and run the blue to to relay. Make sure you tape up the other end of the wires as they might still be hot.
If you wire it this way you can throw away the stock fuel pump resistor/relay stuff.
Here is the microtech diagram, you should be able to just follow this:
http://microtechefi.com/download/LT8_13B%20STDw.pdf
Pat
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03-09-14, 07:53 PM
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Awesome. I know there's a lot on this already, so thanks for not flaming me about it. That info is very helpful. Basically just cut all the wires to the fuel pump back there, ground the black, run blue to relay, cap the live wires? So I'd completely bypass the stock fuel relay harness, if not, there's 2 blue wires to 1 pin. Run them both?
03-09-14, 09:45 PM
#9
don't cut the other two wires! (white/grn + white/red) those are the fuel level gage.
If the two blue wires both go to the same pin on the connector, then cut both and splice the new power wire to both of them.
Also FYI, one of your links you posted mentions soldering. You should avoid soldering 12V automotive connections, as the heat anneals the copper wire and makes it brittle. Just use crimp connectors, which are better at dealing with vibration. If you want to do the best job, get the crimp connectors that are cased in heat shrink so that after you crimp them you can shrink them and they will be fairly well sealed.
If the two blue wires both go to the same pin on the connector, then cut both and splice the new power wire to both of them.
Also FYI, one of your links you posted mentions soldering. You should avoid soldering 12V automotive connections, as the heat anneals the copper wire and makes it brittle. Just use crimp connectors, which are better at dealing with vibration. If you want to do the best job, get the crimp connectors that are cased in heat shrink so that after you crimp them you can shrink them and they will be fairly well sealed.
03-10-14, 12:35 PM
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Good meeting you too, man. Let me know whenever you need help! Awesome, I might need some but I'll let you know. I'm getting out there to work on it today
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