As the title states, i am in need of some microtech install help. The wiring is about 90% done. I am just having a bit of trouble with the fuel relay and finishing up. I'd also like to rewire the fuel pump in the process. I have diagrams and info, im just overloaded and need set straight. I have no spare money, but can help with house work (did remodeling and painting) I am also a massage therapist. Anything helps guys.

I am located in Lake Stevens, WA near Everett, Snohomish, Marysville. Willing to give a ride. I just miss my 7!

Thanks everyone!

 

its an s4 btw

 

Youre a little too far for me to come help, but if you post up what the problems are I can help you figure them out...

 

I wish I could help you but I got my own problems to sort out. Hopefully I'll see you on te road soon.

Where in LS are you? I'm between 20th and 204.

 

Basically I just want to fully understand these diagrams and what I need to do to hook it up to microtech.

http://stanis.net/2010/07/mazda-rx-7...ewire-diagram/

http://rx7.freeservers.com/modhb/rewire.htm


Thanks for your help man

 

Me too. I'm in between 83rd and 91st right off 20th. Pm your number and maybe we can converge.

 

neither of those diagrams are going to work easily with the microtech.

You need a standard automotive relay, and hook it up like this:

Pin 87: 14 or 12 AWG wire from battery, with 15A fuse.
Pin 30: To fuel pump positive (blue wire in stock fuel pump harness) Also needs to be at least 14AWG

Pin 86: To microtech fuel pump pin (green wire in microtech harness)
Pin 85: to any +12V wire that is on when key in in 'run'. You can wire to the pink wire in the Microtech harness if you want, which is the switched +12V input.

Note that you can switch 87 with 30, or 85 with 86, so don't be confused if you see a diagram with them opposite.

Once you have that all set up, you will also have to make sure that the black wire in the fuel pump harness goes to ground. I usually just cut the wires near the pump, run the black wire to a nearby screw on the body, and run the blue to to relay. Make sure you tape up the other end of the wires as they might still be hot.

If you wire it this way you can throw away the stock fuel pump resistor/relay stuff.

Here is the microtech diagram, you should be able to just follow this:
http://microtechefi.com/download/LT8_13B%20STDw.pdf

Pat

 

Awesome. I know there's a lot on this already, so thanks for not flaming me about it. That info is very helpful. Basically just cut all the wires to the fuel pump back there, ground the black, run blue to relay, cap the live wires? So I'd completely bypass the stock fuel relay harness, if not, there's 2 blue wires to 1 pin. Run them both?

 

don't cut the other two wires! (white/grn + white/red) those are the fuel level gage.

If the two blue wires both go to the same pin on the connector, then cut both and splice the new power wire to both of them.

Also FYI, one of your links you posted mentions soldering. You should avoid soldering 12V automotive connections, as the heat anneals the copper wire and makes it brittle. Just use crimp connectors, which are better at dealing with vibration. If you want to do the best job, get the crimp connectors that are cased in heat shrink so that after you crimp them you can shrink them and they will be fairly well sealed.

 

Perfect, that's what I figured and needed clearing up! I appreciate it very much!

 

Good tip on not to solder as well.

 

Good meeting you today and thanks again for the help.

I do have some wire crumpets and connectors if you need.

 

Good meeting you too, man. Let me know whenever you need help! Awesome, I might need some but I'll let you know. I'm getting out there to work on it today

 

Crimpers not crumpets sorry. Ac.

But yeah, hopefully yours will be up around the time mine is and we can go on some drives. I want to set up some local meets.