My dirft machine in the making!!!
My dirft machine in the making!!!
Well as you can see I am new around here and I have only had my FC for a couple of months. I bought this car to make into a drift car. So far I have stirpped the interior in prep for a full cage. I installed my Tein Super Drift coilovers. The diff and the cage.
Check it out




Check it out




Nice looking TII. i dont make it out much and im stuck away up here in Oak harbor. the only person i really see is krackerx7 and dont usually leave Burlington mount vernon area. i hope to get out more once i change jobs here in the next few months tho.
Tein nice. You get those after you bought it? Don't tell me your in the it's from Japan so its better and worth twice as much as American stuff crowd? Lookin good. Need to upgrade some power though if you wanna spin those tires hehe.
I did get the Teins after I got the car. And no I don't think just because it is from Japan it is better. I had ridden in a few cars with Tein Flex coilovers and when I found the Drift spec and did some reserch I decided that they were a good opion for me. As for the power I would like to get around 300whp. I think that is more than enough to drift. Any ideas for the car to make more power would be greatly appricated.
...
...if you REALLY wanna get in to this drift gig ****, power isn't going to be the highest in your priority sir...
...I suggest saving your pennies that you plan on spending on power, and getting a decent LSD. I would reccomend the 2-way Tomei Trax Advance (what I'm on now), or a Cusco 1.5 way...either will cost a pretty penny though, but is neccessary if you wanna really drift...good...
...another thing would be some tie rod ends/spacers...I think either Kazama or Super Now (what I have) makes tie rod ends for FC's, although because of the extended space and steering angle that these will give you, expect to be "off" in your toe alignment (about 3 degrees/inches off...oh, well more aggressive turn ins)...
...save the rest of your money for tires, wheels, repairs, and, if you're gangster like us, for bail and ticket money for those street sessions...
...one more word of advice - when drifting, breaking **** is an inevitability, not a probability. If you drift, you WILL break something on your car, maybe not immediately, but eventually something will happen. I guess the same concept can be applied to all real particapants in motorsports...
...removing sound deadening (tar) will help reduce weight as well as removing the heater core and blower assembly. Basically, leave in your car what is only abosolutely neccessary. Power steering is neccessary though.
If you wanna come and session, the majority of people that "really" into this **** (me included) live up in the Everett/Lynnwood/North Seattle area...
...and put your **** on th ground homes - you gots Tein's and you STILL 4X4 status?!?!...haha j/k but yeah, I prefer HE's and drop it like it's hot...
holler
...I suggest saving your pennies that you plan on spending on power, and getting a decent LSD. I would reccomend the 2-way Tomei Trax Advance (what I'm on now), or a Cusco 1.5 way...either will cost a pretty penny though, but is neccessary if you wanna really drift...good...
...another thing would be some tie rod ends/spacers...I think either Kazama or Super Now (what I have) makes tie rod ends for FC's, although because of the extended space and steering angle that these will give you, expect to be "off" in your toe alignment (about 3 degrees/inches off...oh, well more aggressive turn ins)...
...save the rest of your money for tires, wheels, repairs, and, if you're gangster like us, for bail and ticket money for those street sessions...
...one more word of advice - when drifting, breaking **** is an inevitability, not a probability. If you drift, you WILL break something on your car, maybe not immediately, but eventually something will happen. I guess the same concept can be applied to all real particapants in motorsports...
...removing sound deadening (tar) will help reduce weight as well as removing the heater core and blower assembly. Basically, leave in your car what is only abosolutely neccessary. Power steering is neccessary though.
If you wanna come and session, the majority of people that "really" into this **** (me included) live up in the Everett/Lynnwood/North Seattle area...
...and put your **** on th ground homes - you gots Tein's and you STILL 4X4 status?!?!...haha j/k but yeah, I prefer HE's and drop it like it's hot...
holler
...oh yeah, and if you wanna start ******* around and making good use of your Tein's - camber alignment -2 or more in the front (I run -4), and zero toe in the back...expect to go through tires like crazy though...
have fun with it.
have fun with it.
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 7,301
Likes: 3
From: District of Columbia
Tein's are the best, just they don't last. They're known for only lasting around 2 years tops before they blow. Other than that they are the best for street-track use.
That rx7 looks awesome....from the looks of the engine....it kinda looks like my dads did before he got his front mount and new JDE put in...
hopefully you dont beat her up too badly....it looks like my car without the body kit and fiberglass lol..........have fun with it
hopefully you dont beat her up too badly....it looks like my car without the body kit and fiberglass lol..........have fun with it
Very clean T2..........................PM me if you wan't or need some advice on that 300 hp - it's all about how much you want to spend. I know the low budget way and the expensive way. Both are good depending on what you want.
3 T2's & 1 FB house hold
3 T2's & 1 FB house hold
Originally Posted by 88t2romad
that was your t2 in the airport junkyard!!!!!! argh!!! that poor car. do you know whos black t2 was sitting on base in a parking lot sort of behind the library(next road over)
maybe it looked a little like this? lol
and heres my red one a little after i got it...
I like the JIC Flight A2 coilovers the best. Inverted Aluminum monotubes, 17 way adjustable with front and rear camber adjustment. Tiens can suffice though. You have to get rid of the active tow in the rear also, racing beat sells the bushing for that. you need some sway bars and urethane also.
CJG
CJG
Read this http://fc3spro.com/TECH/DRIFT/dori.html
Also check out the Power Mods: From Mild to Wild on the site for power suggestions.
Also check out the Power Mods: From Mild to Wild on the site for power suggestions.
Thanks for that site it has great info.
I will be starting my rollcage soon and I will try and have some picks up of the build up.
I did my alignment the other day at work and got the fr camber at -1 and the teo in alittle. But that site says more like -2to-4 degrees in the front so I will have to see what works best for me. I ordered some of the teo bushings in the rear and I am going to get the rear camber link next week.
I will be starting my rollcage soon and I will try and have some picks up of the build up.
I did my alignment the other day at work and got the fr camber at -1 and the teo in alittle. But that site says more like -2to-4 degrees in the front so I will have to see what works best for me. I ordered some of the teo bushings in the rear and I am going to get the rear camber link next week.
Well i finally fixed my overheating problem. I got a new used rad because mine was leaking bad. and the undertray now my temps stay way down. I am planning on starting the cage build this weekend So i will take picks and post them up may do some work on my new exhaust too.
I just finished tightening up the old lsd today. I add one .040" to each side of the lsd and now the diff locks up great with minimal chatter. It wasn't to hard harder to get the diff out then to rebuild. I plan on starting the base plates for the cage sat night.


