F0RSAKEN

You said you wanted a ride (Tim) when we go to the meet, correct? Well, I stripped my engine down to the block again last weekend (I can go from fully built to stripped, to built in an afternoon now) to fix a leak that I had, and while I had it apart, I clicked some pics of the flapper doors that are no more, plus a few extra for fun.

Here is the exhaust manifold with the flapper door removed. The hinge hole is tapped and replaced by a 1/2" pipe plug, which I do not think you can see, or see well due to it being on the bottom of the mani.



On that manifold, I also (theorized benefit) gasket matched the side that bolts to the engine. Now, you people who have had that manifold off know that the stock ports on the mani. itself match the engine ports, but my THEORY is with the mani. ports being larger than the housing ports that there will be less exhaust gas reversion (less exhaust sucked back into combustion chamber). I figure that once that high velocity gas leaves the combustion chamber, it expands quite a bit into the turbo housing etc. I figure that expanded gas will have a harder time going BACK into the engine if the port it is trying to go through is smaller than the area it is occupying. Obviously, if it helps, its probably minimal, but Ill take what I can get. Please correct me if my theory is incorrect.
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Here is the ported turbo housing (very little material cut out).



Not a whole lot to add here. I just chamfered/beveled (whatever the term is) the edges to match the gasket a little, and cut a little material out of the inside to aid in flow.
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Here is the other side of the turbo housing, with the control door removed/hinge hole replaced by 1/4" pipe plug.



For this, we (my dad helped me a little with some of this, as I have never done anything like it before) used a bandsaw to cut off the end of the hinge, then removed the sheath that is on it, and the hinge/door just slid right out. Also used my trusty End-Grinder (has a couple names) to port a little, again using gasket as template.
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This lovely piece is quite easy to figure out. LIM with all emissions crap removed/replaced by block off plates. Note zip ties to secure vac-lines. On the vac-caps, I also used some hard sealing/setting high temp. gasket maker inside of them as a glue, THEN zip tied them. The mixture of colors on the ties adds 5hp.



Not much to say here. I just polished/VERY slightly ported (shouldnt have) the runners.
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This is my Efini Y-Pipe, modified of course.



You'll note the missing nipple for the Air Bypass Valve. I crushed it and pulled it out, replacing with a 1/2" pipe plug (love those things).



Same deal here: CRV nipple crushed/removed/replaced. Also removed the Charge Control Actuator, and replaced with pipe plugs.
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This here is what every FD guy dreams of: No rats nest!!



I bought a PFC for the express purpose of being able to also buy a BRAND new wiring harness from Malloy (1025 and 780 respectively. Ouch) so I could strip the harness down, pull out the unused sensors, and rewrap it in Self-Adhesive Silicone tape from McMaster-Carr. Awsome stuff, and only $11 a roll. Takes 1.5 to wrap modified harness (P.S. if any of you get this stuff, only get black. I did red first...it looks orange. Horrible).
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Heres my Hallman MBC. I used an insulated electrical clamp from Home Depot and mounted it via a 10mm flange nut to a stud lookin thing coming off of the strut tower. It originally held a plastic brace/stand for the nearby black wire. It doesnt miss its home.


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This is a distance shot of the engine bay. Its a bit dirty, but I just finished (riiiight, is it EVER done??) project, so I havent had time to clean anything.



Yes, I know the silicone couplers for the intake pipes dont match. Stupid Greddy and their blue The red/air intake polished pipe is the Ebay one. Upper fits nice, lower is a POS so I used the stock rubber piece. Itll do until I get a V-Mount.
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Here are just some shots of my dirty interior.






Car has 71k miles, with ~12 on a reman (found that out when I ripped it all apart. Score for me). Defi BF gauges in Boost/Fuel pres./Water temp. flavors. My favorite! ('spensive too :/ ). The pod is from Flyrx7, who makes them himself. I met him in person to pick it up in Tacoma (he lives in Olympia area). Cool guy, and the crafstmanship on this pod ROCKS. I also have an www.rx7.com 3 gauge A-pillar pod. It feels like **** compared to Fly's. I love it, and a VERY fair price at 145 (www.rx7.com A-pillar is ~90-100).

My gauge cluster bevels/faces are for some strange reason scored up pretty bad. The car is originally from Tenessee, so I think the moisture/heat had something to do with it. Will get replaced here soon.

Also havent gotten a mount for my Commander yet, but that will come.

I am currently running 10.5-11lbs of boost, and the car pulls like mad. I cant even really watch my tach/speedo/boost effectively because it tach's out so fast. Though, its no faster than a similarly modded sequential car, so dont think this non-seq mod will net you a significant amount of extra power. I just like its linearity (that a word?). Steady power all the way to 8k rpm. Plus there is beauty in the simplicity of the engine bay.

Other relevant mod -> Full 3" turbo back w/ resonated mid-pipe, Magnaflow muffler for resonator/and another for muffler. Sounds sweeeeeet. Very deep and melow at idle, SCREAMS under boost/redline...and not the Apex N1 type scream either. This sounds goooood.

Any questions, feel free to ask, and Ill do my best to assist. I did 95% of the work myself (more like 98% ) so I know first hand what is involved and how things went down.

Thanks for stoppin by

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

Very nice! Yes I still want a ride... Those pics are much better than all the others I have seen and noe one ever shows the rats nest with non sequential threads... Thanks

z-beater

Showoff

F0RSAKEN

Seems not many people are interested in this, but heres a mild update:

Just took a 45 mile drive up to Mount Vernon, car builds 5lbs of boost at 2800rpm in 5th gear. It builds relatively quickly after that, but I cant push it to a full 11-12lbs due to speed and traffic. I can honestly say I have absolutely no regrets for the non-seq, but I didnt drive my car for almost 8 months from the day I started my project to the day I finished, so I dont even remember what it felt like sequentailly.

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

I know how you feel not driving the car for that long! Done that before...

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

yea. I drove mine for the first time in 8 weeks today...