So, I'm ready to drain my fuel tank, add new fluids and fire her up. I only have one question, really I just need confirmation that this relay setup is ok. I upgraded to the S5 alternator, so the black w/white stripe wire is no longer used. Now according to the schematic, this is 12v with ignition on. So I'm using that as the control to open relay one, and the 12v off that to control relay 2 going to my 3 coils positives on DLIDFIS setup. Does this look ok? I can't afford to fry my setup, and would like to get it fired first time with no electrical ghosts to chase.
Here's a drawing of how I wired it up so far.

Would it be better to use the old alt wire to "trigger" both relays, or the way I have it?

 

First dont use the power from your fuel pump to "energize" relay number 2. Thats not good, the intent of a relay is to use low amp wiring and switches to turn on high amperage equipment.
Your power the #2 relay with high amperage "im assuming" power from your fuel pump. Is your set up fuel injected, so your using a high pressure pump. .

Also your only using one relay for power to your coils. What is the relay rated for, seems like you may smoke it.
I would use a main relay from a FC, it has 2 inputs and 2 outputs. Use one set for the leading coil, and the other for trailing coils.. Plus they are like 5 bucks at the junkyard, weathertight, with nice plugs, and built like my Volvo. Your relays dont work so well under the hood, fragile, with exposed terminals, and you cant hear them "CLICK" on when your troubleshooting.

What are you going to do to ensure your FC S5 will now engerize when the car is running.
It not wired the same as a S3, S4 alt.

 

Sorry for not including all the info, was trying not to write a book. Background ...
Motor is a 12 N/A w/weber sidedraft. I found questionable wiring done by the PO, so I opted to feloom and remove all non-essential wires. At the same time, since the motor was toast and battery tray rotten, I opted to relocate the battery and upgrade the ignition to DLIDFIS w/HEI modules. I'm going to be converting to power windows and locks as well as a proaudio sound system and a Taurus e-fan, so I also decided to upgrade to an S5 alternator and a 2nd gen. fuseblock. I also upgraded my fuel delivery system with a "Holley red" type fuel pump and a regulator w/gauge. Obviously the stock wiring was not going to be adequate for all my needs, not to mention the mess the PO made of it. I made my own ignition box w/modules and modded my dizzy w/weathertight plugs. I ran new wires from my optima battery (now behind drivers seat in bay) to the starter and the alt., ran wires for my fuel pump to the fuseblock, from igniters to coils, tach wire off trailing coil and removed fuseable links and installed fuseblock. Installed the S5 alt. which doesn't use the black w/white wire that is energized on ignition, it only uses a jumper from one terminal to the + and the signal wire for the dash indicator. I needed a "trigger wire" for the fuel pump and the coils, so I figured instead of running more new wires, I would use the alt wire with a couple relays to provide higher current power to the coils and fuel pump. The relays are 40 amp, and the power supply is off the fuseblock, a 30 amp to fuel pump and 40 amp to coils. Fuseblock is powered off a new battery lead from the starter post. Now, my question is, since it seems to be a bad idea to run the wires as I'd originally drawn up in the pic. Is there some reason why I shouldn't use the low voltage wire from the old alt. to "energize" both relays, providing current to the pump and coils?

 

No there is no reason not to use the white black wire to energize both relays. Just dont daisy chain from the power out on the other relay. Also imho, your wasting time and money upgrading the trailing side of the ignition. I have dyno results to back that up. Just my 2 cents. I would of kept the original FB trailing ignitor and used a FC trailing coil. Have you ever look inside the plug hole of trailing plug on the housing. 1/8 inch in diameter.

 

Thanks for the info. No, I didn't realize how little difference the trailing side made when I bought the upgraded components, but I'd probably have went ahead with it anyway, just for the sake of continuity. I'm a contractor, and my philosophy has always been that it's better to do more than is neccessary than less than needed. I'll sleep better knowing I've done better than needed be done.

 

cool glad to help, what kind of contracting do you do.

 

I remodel houses, custom work also. From the foundation to the roof, that's pretty much what I do. Just no "new" construction. (other than garages/sheds/additions etc.) LOL

Ok, so I connected my battery and suddenly this freakin buzzer under the dash is screamin at me! I doubt it's the seat belt buzzer since the key isn't on, but what other buzzers are in/under the dash? Also, I have to look at the schematic again cause I'm not getting 12v to the wire off the old alt when the key is "on". ARGH!!!! I want this ****** thing to run!!!!

 

It sounds like maybe your over rev buzzer, which is from your tach lead on the trailer side. IIRC is a yellow with blue strip wire. Sounds like your coils on the t side are not correctly wire.

 

Got it all straightened out. Loose wire on the old alt. wire was the issue with the relays, and the freakin buzzer is to the door! Key in or out, the damn thing just buzzes! I'll be finding that jewel and ripping it out! Tach lead is off trailing, double checked just to be sure. Everything seems ok now, just don't have enough charge in the optima to turn her over. So, got it on the charger and gonna try tonight after work.