I’m soo ******* frustrated with the damn car right now, I’m about to blow it up. Someone please help.

Symptoms: The car starts great. Compression is 90-90-90 on both rotors. It does not over heat or eat coolant. I’ve tested the cooling system and have been watching it carefully. Idles fine. Runs and drives ok during light throttle applications. Runs fine if you go wide open after 4000 rpm, just lethargic and slow. Its right after 1/4 -3/4 throttle input when **** happens. The car bogs badly and wants to stall. I have to either floor it or back out to keep it running. I have gas everywhere. In the oil (which is now causing minor compression issues, changing the oil every week), coming out of all the intake gaskets (I’ve replaced the lower manifold’s top gasket three times) and gas drips out of the floats. Fuel pressure is set at 3-3.5 psi and a Holley blue is the pump (to all who say buy a Holley, do you know how damn loud these things are?)

Things I’ve changed:
I’ve gone from 180 main jets to 160s, not much help. Same problems occur.
I’ve pinched off fuel lines to see if pressure was an issue, same problems.
I’ve adjusted the floats, the only thing I can do consistently is add more gas.
I replaced gaskets, although I need to do that again.
Checked compression, it good.
Checked cooling system, its good.

I don’t have an assortment of jets/air correctors to try so I’m a little lost. I’m also pretty sure I’m not adjusting the floats correctly.

One thing I did notice when I pulled the plugs last night (plugs have 1500 miles on them at the most) is the front rotor is running very rich (carbon covered, although still sparking) and the rear was very noticeably hotter (the tip and sides of the leading plug was showing good or lean burn).

So maybe I have an ignition problem also. But with soo much going on its hard to come to one conclusion.

I need a hand

Thanks
Joe

 

Some more info:
Air Correction Jets = 160
Emulsion Tube = F11
Main Jet = 160
Idle Jet = 55 F8

 

gas in the oil is signs of bad oil control rings iirc

 

Agree,
but it wasn't like that before the carb and I've seen badly flooded engines dilute the oil with gas. Its fairly common when bad flooding occurs. I've seen this on a few other motors and once the fuel problem was corrected the gas didn't diluted the oil. I think (pretty sure) I have too much fuel going down the throat of the motor.

Thanks
Joe

 

Holly ish man, your problem is an easy one! Idle Jet = 55 F8 Those jets are way too small. Most people like running 60 or 65 f9's. I run 60 f9's but want to get my hands on some 65 f9's. I have a 65 f8 that might help you out a little bit. Also I run 180 main w/ 160 air correctors. I'm lookin to up those eventually, but it runs good enough for right now...

 

You may want to T in a fuel line and stick a 1/8 npt fuel pressure gauge on the other end. Then run the line out the hood and tape it on the cowl. Ran it through the gears under load and determine if the old blue is your problem. Jegs says the holley blue runs 14 psi and flows 70 gph. Maintains a constant 9 psi. The racing beat catalog says webers should run at 4.5 psi., that includes all 48 and 51's.
I know you said you were running a mallory fpr, but I would still tie a guage between it and the weber. I think the holley could easily over run the fpr, not only are they loud as hell but they can push some fuel
BTW I have a holley red fuel pump that maintains a constant 5-6 psi, and is just as loud so you still can the race car feel. I you want to part trade for the afc or just buy it let me know.
Good Luck Joe.

 

well the mallory he has is a way better fpr the holley supplies with the blue and he should have absolutely no problems with that regulator.

 

shoulda called me! the idle jet is WAY too small. Im using a 60f9, and I used to be using a 65f9 . I got more power and better milage with the 60f9's tho.

 

I have a set of the 60F9s so I'll put those back in. Does that explain why I have gas everywhere though?

BTW, the motor let go last night. I was playing with it and I heard a pop, clink, clink, clink and the motor dropped in revs. Compression on the front rotor is 0-0-0. Right On.

This motor has always been a little questionable. I also noticed just yesterday that I had water in the oil also. Not a lot, but it did show up on the oil filler cap. I have heard others say that a bad/going bad motor will sometimes spit gas out of the floats so maybe that was it also. I don't know though.

I have a working core that I know the condition of and I'll swap that in. While doing that I'll swap out the holley pump for a stock one. I guess we'll see where I stand after that.

 

Thanks but no thanks. I want a quite one.

I already have a holley fuel pressure gauge hooked up. I have tha pressure set to 3-3.5psi, it varys some. This is the lowest I can go with the mallory FPR. But I'm starting to think that the holley pump still flows too much fuel at 3 psi for the weber?

 

no way 3 psi is perfect for daily driving on the track I ran my best time at 4.5psi. Put it down to 3.5 and lost 3 mph on the top end and .20... Hornbm I still want those 65 f9's mang.
And sorry about the engine man, but at least you've got a spare. My engine is so close to going. I got a lot! of water in the oil, but it does at least still run. For now God willing. If you need I'll take that blown engine off your hands. ;D

 

Just looked at my other (larger) idle jets last night. They are the 65F9s, not bad.

I knew this engine was suspect but it never really showed the normal signs of a bad motor. Thats why I have another.

Now the question is, should I put the 13b EFI system back in or strip the motor down and stick with the weber? As a side note, my old working motor has aluminum flywheel, this thing was very rev happy and I looking forward to having that back on. The motor just feels lathargic with the stock one.

In order to swap back to EFI I would only need an ECU and 13b fuel pump. Maybe a few others. The motor was pulled from a know good working 13b SE, so all the EFI stuff is still attached.

In order to stick with the weber I'll need a stock 12a fuel pump and a new gasket set for the weber and manifolds. Then lots of tuning so this motor does not go out like the last one if the weber caused it. But I don't think so.

What do ya'll think?
I'm going to keep my dead motor and rebuild/port the **** out of it.

Thanks
Joe