I posted this up in the other forum, but I know alot of you guys don't go over there much. Anyways, I finished up wiring in a FD power fc stand alone into my S-5 turbo car. Which could be a whole thread in of itself. I intialized the pfc, started up the car and pretty much drove it non stop from fed way down to tigard.

It took Ralph about 2 and half hours on the dyno to get her tuned in real smooth. The end result was 7 psi of boost and a lot of retarded timing. Even though I run 92 octane always, it was getting a lot of knocks on the sensor. Ralph said that is a result of the "winter" gas and he had to tune it down quite a bit. So pretty much 7 psi is the max boost I can run, until March 1 and the end of the winter gas. The dyno graph is incredibly smooth and has a nice climb to it. The end result was 232 at the wheels at 8000 and 155 at 6200. I am very happy with the results, and I will be heading back down there after March to crank up the boost and finish the tune.

The specs, Jspec stock import motor, S-5 T2, full 3inch exhaust one magna flow, small front mount intercooler, 750 and 1000 rc injectors, fd power fc, msd box on the leading, #9 plugs, walbro 255, serpentine underdrive pulley kit, and a bnr stage 1 upgrade, and yea a act 12 pound flywheel, thats the important stuff. If your thinking of going standalone, go with a power fc, plug and play even on a S-5 motor, well sort of.

 

Awesome! I'm glad it worked well for you. I read most of the thread on the other forum. Did Ralph comment at all on ANY differences there might have been using the FD PFC to tune your FB rather than an FD? Or was it really similar. Just curious...

 

Chasis doesn't matter its engine. All it takes are a few wire changes and it works fine on a S5 13BT. The key here is what engine and electronics you're running not your chassis.

 

what about s4 13BT? No love?

 

Nope... to bad fo you!

 

^^^^^LOL!

that doesnt seem like a whole lotta torque. . . dont the s5's have like 195 lbs stock!? actually it doesnt seem like much power either. . . im confused!!! i've heard from a friend that if u take off all the emisions on the s5 TII u can get 240ish hp w/ 3inch exhaust. (this is what he did on his drift car)

 

S5 turbos have about 160tq stock however, this is only 7psi boost AND this is measured at the wheels, whereas the rating is at the flywheel. So it seems ok. What's impressive is how flat it is between 6500 (where the stock starts to run out) and 8000 (where it is still pulling hard). Can the power FC increase your maximum engine speed above 8000? It looks like you could get an extra 20HP just by going up to 9000 redline which the engine should easily handle.

 

edit
post wasn't really valid.

 

That's what I was referring to was that it's not a FD motor or wiring so I was curious as to whether the engines respond any differently with that ecu...

 

The sensors that are fd are the map, and the ait, I also had to wire in an FD ignitor to get the trailing to fire properly, I am using the FC cas, S-5 tps, and water thermosensor, Internally I dont think the engines are that vastly different, except the FD has bigger ports.

Basically you can make the power fc fit the whatever engine, porting turbo combo you have. As a side note this was a Mustang dyno which do measure output a little lower.

Also car manufactures always list flywheel horse power, so minus roughly 15 percent to get wheel horsepower. So a S-5 turbo stock was 200flywheel hp at 6500 and 196lb ft at 3500 at like 9 psi, which would equal about 170 hp to the wheels, OK I just hit 232 at 7 psi to the wheels, sorry that doesn't seem like much power, but I will take 60 more hp at 2 psi less anyday.

The rumor is the power fc for a S-5 the AP engineering one, is actually a apexi fd one, the only diff is that it comes with a patch harness and cost like 500 dollars more.

 

this still seems like a very large power loss, for the stock turboII. what i have heard is that s5 TII's have 205 hp at 6500 n 193 at 3500 so at the wheels i would expect about 20ish hp loss n somewhere around 10 torque, since u lose less torque to the wheels than hp. . . correct? maybe its my sources that may be incorrect but im going to have to say im leaning more that they r not wrong because they really do know quite a lot about rotaries. not saying that ur wrong im just sayin that im confused about this situation.

 

Its pretty straightforward, I am running 2 pounds LESS boost, and I have 4 degrees of advance pulled out of the stock timing, Yet Iam still making 60 hp more than a stock T2, and it was measured on a mustang dyno, these are the lowest number I can possibly make, in two ways, I don't even have the boost control on, and I am on the mustang dyno. Your buddy with the drift car is probably running 12-14 psi and making 240-250 to the wheels. Thats alot of boost.

 

ahhhhhh, i understand now thanx. but im still confused about the torque. . . i know im being difficult, lol! well my buddy/ aquaintance is boost_my_s5 n he's got stock everything except 3inch all the way back n hks top mount. he's got a jdm s5 w/ no emissions n is putting out 240 so maybe its the turbo creep that is bumpin up his boost, n the better flowing intercooler.

 

When measured on a dyno torque and HP are both lost in exactly the same proportions.

 

1. Does your buddy have a dyno sheet, or is he using his butt dyno to come at 240.
2. How much boost is he running?, I am running 7 psi, and making 7 less horsepower than he supposedly is., that hardly seems like a how power loss
3. I hope he has an upgraded fuel system, or he will pop his motor.

 

im sure he has dynoed it cause he is a d1 liscence holder n works now at torque freaks and is pretty knowledgable, stock boost n stock ecu. personally i dont know how his motor hasnt popped but it hasnt. soon though i guess he's doing haltech, bigger turbo n a buncha ****. but on that last post i spaced on the mustang dyno so nvm my ridiculous comments

 

If you where to put this on a dynojet it would probably be making 250rwhp. From my experience, they read 10% higher than a mustang.

Anouther way to get around the winter fuel mix, is to run a 50-50 race gas mix. CJ