Coolant seal failure
#1
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Coolant seal failure
Hi Folks, I think I have a bad coolant seal. Not sure how or why because the engine has not been overheated. Anyway, I've been trying to track down a small coolant leak. The car leaves a very small puddle of coolant on the undertray after it has gotten fully warm then cools down. It only loses maybe a 1/4 cup. I tightened the lower radiator hose which was a bit loose and changed out the pressure cap once I found that it had a 16 psi cap instead of the 13 psi cap.
These are the symptoms I'm getting now.
- small drop in coolant level after the engine is driven at full temp.
- trace white smoke after engine is fully warm.
- system does not seem to take up coolant from the overflow tank as it cools.
- trace champagne bubbles in the filler neck after the thermostat opens, increases with increased rpm.
I did a pressure test and it will hold about 14-15psi for a long time, at least when the engine is cold.
Anyway, that all sounds like a coolant seal to me. Anyone have other ideas?
Also, does anyone have the phone number or shop name for Lopie in Olympia?
These are the symptoms I'm getting now.
- small drop in coolant level after the engine is driven at full temp.
- trace white smoke after engine is fully warm.
- system does not seem to take up coolant from the overflow tank as it cools.
- trace champagne bubbles in the filler neck after the thermostat opens, increases with increased rpm.
I did a pressure test and it will hold about 14-15psi for a long time, at least when the engine is cold.
Anyway, that all sounds like a coolant seal to me. Anyone have other ideas?
Also, does anyone have the phone number or shop name for Lopie in Olympia?
Last edited by dhays; 06-17-08 at 09:57 AM.
#2
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Even without an overheat a coolant seal can fail. Yours doesn't sound that bad which would just indicate a small exhaust gas leak into the coolant. Are your plugs fouling at all? That's a definite sign... Your plugs can't burn off the coolant entering the combustion chambers and it fouls the plugs
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hate to say it but it does sound like a tiny coolant leak. could possibly be a "pinhole" leak, which is why there are only trace bubbles and small leakage, but all of the things you said soud eerily familiar (mine was FC).
#5
Even without an overheat a coolant seal can fail. Yours doesn't sound that bad which would just indicate a small exhaust gas leak into the coolant. Are your plugs fouling at all? That's a definite sign... Your plugs can't burn off the coolant entering the combustion chambers and it fouls the plugs
The last engine that I had would overheat. It ended up being a coolant seal.
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Even without an overheat a coolant seal can fail. Yours doesn't sound that bad which would just indicate a small exhaust gas leak into the coolant. Are your plugs fouling at all? That's a definite sign... Your plugs can't burn off the coolant entering the combustion chambers and it fouls the plugs
After doing a bit of checking today, I think that if it really does turn out to be a coolant seal failure, I'll probably have Jerry do the RR and see about getting a J-spec engine from Ray Crowe to put in. Ray said that he should have some in July. Then the only question would be to replace the turbos while i'm at it.
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I would check out this I dont know if it works but I would give it a shot.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._seal_fix.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._seal_fix.html
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#8
Do it right, do it once
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I've had quite a few FDs, 21 to be specific. I'd really check all the hoses before pulling the motor for a rebuild. Remember there are quite a few coolant hoses on the FD. 2 for the turbos, 2 on the throttle body, heater hoses, AST hoses, radiator hoses. All or any of them can leak. The best clamps are the OEM clamps, worm drive clamps are OK for the radiator hoses but the small hoses really should have a stock style clamp. Also the steel hose nipples can corrode and allow a small leak.
Take it all apart and check every single hose. If coolant is hitting the belly pan you should be able to find the leak.
Good luck!
Take it all apart and check every single hose. If coolant is hitting the belly pan you should be able to find the leak.
Good luck!
#9
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I would check out this I dont know if it works but I would give it a shot.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._seal_fix.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r..._seal_fix.html
I've had quite a few FDs, 21 to be specific. I'd really check all the hoses before pulling the motor for a rebuild. Remember there are quite a few coolant hoses on the FD. 2 for the turbos, 2 on the throttle body, heater hoses, AST hoses, radiator hoses. All or any of them can leak. The best clamps are the OEM clamps, worm drive clamps are OK for the radiator hoses but the small hoses really should have a stock style clamp. Also the steel hose nipples can corrode and allow a small leak.
Take it all apart and check every single hose. If coolant is hitting the belly pan you should be able to find the leak.
Take it all apart and check every single hose. If coolant is hitting the belly pan you should be able to find the leak.
BTW, the engine bay looks much better since I put in one of your battery trays that I bought used off a guy in Texas. Very nice.
#12
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Thanks for asking.
I really don't know. I can't elicit any coolant leaks anymore. I changed some things, tightened hoses etc... and now I don't get leaks.
I still don't overheat. The overflow tank is staying at exactly the same level. I may be having the coolant level in the fill neck drop by about a 1/2 inch. I'm not noticing any white smoke.
So I don't know what the heck is going on. I tried to get the car nice and hot today. Only was able to get the temps up to about 92C on the PFC. Still, that should be plenty warm to circulate the coolant well. I'll try and drive the heck out of it tomorrow and see if I can get the temps nice and hot and then see what it does. I'm planning on going to the BSCC autocross on Sunday afternoon. Maybe if anyone is there that knows something about rotaries they can come and sniff my exhaust etc...
So, the bottom line is that if I do have a coolant seal leak, it must be a small one. I think I'll wait for it to be obvious before I decide to do a rebuild. In the mean time, I'm going to enjoy driving it and will get it tuned next month. I figure that if I have to rebuild the engine, I'm going to go with stock again anyway so the map should still be pretty close.
I really don't know. I can't elicit any coolant leaks anymore. I changed some things, tightened hoses etc... and now I don't get leaks.
I still don't overheat. The overflow tank is staying at exactly the same level. I may be having the coolant level in the fill neck drop by about a 1/2 inch. I'm not noticing any white smoke.
So I don't know what the heck is going on. I tried to get the car nice and hot today. Only was able to get the temps up to about 92C on the PFC. Still, that should be plenty warm to circulate the coolant well. I'll try and drive the heck out of it tomorrow and see if I can get the temps nice and hot and then see what it does. I'm planning on going to the BSCC autocross on Sunday afternoon. Maybe if anyone is there that knows something about rotaries they can come and sniff my exhaust etc...
So, the bottom line is that if I do have a coolant seal leak, it must be a small one. I think I'll wait for it to be obvious before I decide to do a rebuild. In the mean time, I'm going to enjoy driving it and will get it tuned next month. I figure that if I have to rebuild the engine, I'm going to go with stock again anyway so the map should still be pretty close.
#17
#19
Yeah, best to get that taken care of, i blew a coolant seal on my FD and it was like a fogger starting it up in the morning. It started out small like the issue you described, but a good couple of autox's later it would actually fill the chambers and seize the engine. I would probably plan on replacing it before the summer is over, but hope that it lasts longer
How much are you looking to pay for a JSpec engine? I'm just curious how much it costs, as my factory engine was around 5k to put in with labor.
How much are you looking to pay for a JSpec engine? I'm just curious how much it costs, as my factory engine was around 5k to put in with labor.
#20
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90c is a normal temp for normal driving in the summer. Mine rarely see's over 85c with the big *** electric fan turning on at 84c
When you cold start in the morning does the exhaust smell like anything ?? Coolant leaks will have a sweet smell and white smoke. Have you looked into a dye test ? From what I understand a shop pours some sort of ultraviolet stuff in your coolant, lets it run through the whole engine and afterwards they can shine a light on it and any leak will glow. If the leak is internal this might not show up, idk I have never tried it.
When you cold start in the morning does the exhaust smell like anything ?? Coolant leaks will have a sweet smell and white smoke. Have you looked into a dye test ? From what I understand a shop pours some sort of ultraviolet stuff in your coolant, lets it run through the whole engine and afterwards they can shine a light on it and any leak will glow. If the leak is internal this might not show up, idk I have never tried it.
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