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BBQ & Dyno Day November 8th

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Old 11-10-08, 12:13 AM
  #51  
Were's my chopsticks?

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Originally Posted by TweakGames
Your 5th and 6 ports are not actuating. It's basically a sleeve in your engine that lets more air get into your engine at higher RPM, thus keeping the velocity up at lower RPMs ( better for torque ) but more air (meaning more power) at higher rpms. Your power dropped like a 46 lb American Eskimo thrown off of a burger king roof.
Hahah ok. Now.. heres the question. How do I fix it?
Old 11-10-08, 12:30 AM
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Here they are.
11 psi. (The first pull that went to 5.5k rpm was a test to see if it was controlling boost ok or not.)


9.4 psi.


I still have MASSIVE boost control problems, but it never spikes up, it just dives down, so I could still kinda get a good reading up top once it gets controlled. I have fiddled with the haltech controller for over 60 hours now, and it's still completely random. Anyways, my boost would go to 9.4 (or the 11) then drop down to 8, then build back up to the normal slowly. All will be solved soon. The up down up down up down boost on that one run was pretty interesting. lol. I told someone at the dyno that that was when my 4th piston was coming on for extra power. It just wasn't working with such the high boost.
Attached Thumbnails BBQ & Dyno Day November 8th-312tweakdyno2.jpg   BBQ & Dyno Day November 8th-tweakdynobad2.jpg  

Last edited by TweakGames; 11-10-08 at 12:42 AM.
Old 11-10-08, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Nytrate
Hahah ok. Now.. heres the question. How do I fix it?
Well first you need to figure out why they are not actuating. I think you had your air pump ( I dont remember though). Your 5th and 6th ports work off backpressure caused by your exhaust. If you have a too open or free flowing exhaust if wont have enough pressure to move the actuators. Your actuators could also be broken, and or your sleeves could be stuck. I will find you a picture real quick.

Actually, here you go, this will be your first search to fix a problem and gain tons of power.
https://www.rx7club.com/search.php?searchid=6274904

Have fun! This is one of many many many 10,000 searches.

Last edited by TweakGames; 11-10-08 at 12:59 AM.
Old 11-10-08, 01:27 AM
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Oh my God, Tweak, 315.. You guessed RIGHT ON. You were hoping for like 300 and you were guessing 315

Damn man, your car pulls amazingly hard. Definitely gives me a lot more hope for a turbo rotary than Daren's car ever did. Keep up that good work man, you're my idol.

Also, thanks again for the most fun I've had on a laptop, ever.
Old 11-10-08, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jmkogut
Oh my God, Tweak, 315.. You guessed RIGHT ON. You were hoping for like 300 and you were guessing 315

Damn man, your car pulls amazingly hard. Definitely gives me a lot more hope for a turbo rotary than Daren's car ever did. Keep up that good work man, you're my idol.

Also, thanks again for the most fun I've had on a laptop, ever.
Actually, my goal was just to break 300. I started low at ~9 psi, and was going to slowly turn the boost up until I broke 300. It just happened that I broke 300 at 11 psi. I notice a huge boost in hp just going from 9.4 to 11 psi. (About 50) So right now I am gaining about 32 hp per psi. In a perfect world lol, (I have yet to find an instance of this) at 13 psi I would have been right around ~370 rwhp. That is about right for what other people with my setup are getting too. The next dyno at higher psi will be the only way to truly tell though.

Also for comparing my car to daren's, lol, it's two different beasts. I <3 my car right now. ( I am rx7 bi-polar though) I can't really ask for anything more. As for being someone's idol ..... scary ... never had that told to me.... I recommend you aim a little higher! I am nothing special, keep up your research, work hard, be smart and logical, and you can have an amazingly fun car too!

And yes, having a laptop able to change settings in the computer on the fly is pretty dang cool. It also gives you the power to royally screw yourself. :P You only saw the boost control, there are tons more toys to play with. I will have to give you some more demonstrations later.

~Tweak

Last edited by TweakGames; 11-10-08 at 02:04 AM.
Old 11-10-08, 02:03 AM
  #56  
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Yeah, hit me up when you do. I'm hella interested in your Haltech.
Old 11-10-08, 09:22 AM
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i got a ride.

can't wait to do my cosmo swap with a TO4S.

however it will be pfc tuned.. haha we'll see who makes more!

are the 1600 secondaries really necessary or is that just so you can up the boost when you feel like it? i low how you run super lean before they kick on though. lol

Last edited by Tatakai; 11-10-08 at 09:25 AM.
Old 11-10-08, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Tatakai
i got a ride.

can't wait to do my cosmo swap with a TO4S.


i know how you run super lean before they kick on though. lol
Hehe, we have a lot to talk about / you have a lot of reading to do. With my t04s, my secondaries kick on at .7 psi, not RPM based, so there is never a super lean spot. I'm sure you know super lean spot 13b = AAA ride home. I'm sure the pfc either has a setting so that the injectors will come on at a certain boost point and OR you are able to change the staging point at which the injectors will be coming on at.

are the 1600 secondaries really necessary or is that just so you can up the boost when you feel like it?
If you don't have at least 4 x 1000s or a 550/1600 720/1600 combination you physically won't have enough fuel to run in the high 300 rwhp without getting over a safe injector duty cycle. There is no reason to not have 1600 secondaries. Now ... I am really confused on what you mean about boosting when ever I feel like it.... isn't that the point? Why would I not be able to / want to boost when ever I feel like it? Do you mean that if you have 550/720 you can only boost when it's cold out or only once in a while? You might as well through some screws in your lower intake manifold now and get it over with.

however it will be pfc tuned.. haha we'll see who makes more!
Your on. Same time/place next year.
Old 11-10-08, 04:47 PM
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To me, it looked like and sounded like his actuators were opening... For a stock FC wqith no mods except Flowmaster muflers those numbers are exactly what's to be expected. I've seen S4 n/a with all the bolt ons and SAFC only do 140whp.

Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 11-10-08 at 04:57 PM.
Old 11-10-08, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
To me, it looked like and sounded like his actuators were opening... For a stock FC wqith no mods except Flowmaster muflers those numbers are exactly what's to be expected. I've seen S4 n/a with all the bolt ons and SAFC only do 140whp.
I guess it has been too long since I have done NA. Anyways it's and easy check to see if your actuators are working or not. Just put some grease or something on the actuator rods, and do a couple pulls. If the grease has been pushed one way, then they are working.
Old 11-11-08, 02:22 AM
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Aaron host up the pix and videos you took.
Old 11-12-08, 04:42 PM
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Were's my chopsticks?

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Originally Posted by TweakGames
I guess it has been too long since I have done NA. Anyways it's and easy check to see if your actuators are working or not. Just put some grease or something on the actuator rods, and do a couple pulls. If the grease has been pushed one way, then they are working.

Were are the The actuator rods ?
Old 11-12-08, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Nytrate
Were are the The actuator rods ?
Passenger side of your engine, right behind the air pump.
Old 11-12-08, 05:36 PM
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Ok here are some pics

I am trying to find the acuator rods but i am having no luck





Old 11-12-08, 05:43 PM
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More behind, around the middle of the engine between your exhaust and intake manifolds, I believe.
Old 11-12-08, 05:52 PM
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this it?
Old 11-12-08, 06:00 PM
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Nope. Close.

Attached Thumbnails BBQ &amp; Dyno Day November 8th-actuator.jpg  
Old 11-12-08, 06:00 PM
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Ah, no.

There's two of them, they're circular, about 4-6 inches apart. On the passenger *side* of the engine, in the middle. Not the passenger side of the front, but the passenger side of the engine. Above your exhaust manifold.

EDIT: I see Tweak beat me to it. That's it alright.
Old 11-12-08, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by jmkogut
Ah, no.

There's two of them, they're circular, about 4-6 inches apart. On the passenger *side* of the engine, in the middle. Not the passenger side of the front, but the passenger side of the engine. Above your exhaust manifold.

EDIT: I see Tweak beat me to it. That's it alright.
Playing find the part is fun and all, but I can only take so much.
Old 11-12-08, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jmkogut
Ah, no.

There's two of them, they're circular, about 4-6 inches apart. On the passenger *side* of the engine, in the middle. Not the passenger side of the front, but the passenger side of the engine. Above your exhaust manifold.

EDIT: I see Tweak beat me to it. That's it alright.
OK i found them. I dont think they are working i tryed pushing them in and out but they are really stiff and hard to move. How could I Tell if this is caused my my exhause I got Dual Flowmasters.

EDIT:

Just tryed to do a few pulls and they are not acuating... soo I dotn know how i could fix this some helpful hints would be nice

Last edited by Nytrate; 11-12-08 at 06:09 PM.
Old 11-12-08, 06:10 PM
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Turn your car on, and put your fingers on one of the actuators. Take the other hand and rev the car up hard by pulling on the throttle cable. If the actuator doesn't move even a little bit, you most likely have a problem. Also putting oil on the actuator rod and going for a drive like I said above is a better way. If your 5th and 6th arnt moving, there there could be a lot of reasons. No back pressure, your air pump is being stupid, your posts could be stuck, you might having a broken / missing vac line going to the actuators, you could have broken actuators blah blah blah. Get a turbo. lol jk.

(p.s. turbo cars don't (normally) run the 5th and 6th ports. There are people that are wierd and do it to prove a point, but that is pretty much useless. )
Old 11-12-08, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Nytrate
OK i found them. I dont think they are working i tryed pushing them in and out but they are really stiff and hard to move. How could I Tell if this is caused my my exhause I got Dual Flowmasters.

EDIT:

Just tryed to do a few pulls and they are not acuating... soo I dotn know how i could fix this some helpful hints would be nice
Try using some penetrating oil on the actuators, and moving them in and out with some pliers a bunch of times until it's easier. The stiffness isn't caused by your exhaust, it's caused by crud getting inside them. Your exhaust *may* cause them to not actuate, however, which would cause them to stay still, and in turn, build up ****.
Old 11-12-08, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TweakGames
Turn your car on, and put your fingers on one of the actuators. Take the other hand and rev the car up hard by pulling on the throttle cable. If the actuator doesn't move even a little bit, you most likely have a problem. Also putting oil on the actuator rod and going for a drive like I said above is a better way. If your 5th and 6th arnt moving, there there could be a lot of reasons. No back pressure, your air pump is being stupid, your posts could be stuck, you might having a broken / missing vac line going to the actuators, you could have broken actuators blah blah blah. Get a turbo. lol jk.

(p.s. turbo cars don't (normally) run the 5th and 6th ports. There are people that are wierd and do it to prove a point, but that is pretty much useless. )
ok I will give it a shot...
Old 11-12-08, 06:15 PM
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When I go forced induction in the spring, I'm going to remove the sleeves.. Positive pressure + 6 ports ftw.
Old 11-12-08, 08:34 PM
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If everything is working correctly revving in neutral shouldn't cause the actuators to open enough to visually see them move. You need to be under load for them to open. That's why tweak said put some grease on them adn go for a drive.


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