i got a big big problem, yesterday me and my friends were cruising from mukilteo beach when my friend with a sentra se-r spec v pulled up next to me on the freeway and wanted to race, so i dropped to 3rd and we went i pulled away for 30secs b4 my car started losing power above 5000rpm and he completely got me after i shift to 4th gear, earlier today i read that the auxilary ports (5th/6th ports) dont open up if you dont have a catalytic converter, so if anyone who lives in the lynnwood area knows how to wire it open i need your help!!!!!!!!! really bad!!!!

 

It's really easy to wire open the rear one, the front one is kinda hard though [not much hand room - and I have small hands ^_-]

Wait until the car is cool, then just take a zip tie and use it to hold down the little actuators on the lower intake manifold [passenger side of the engine]
[they take a bit of force but that's normal..]

I have picts somewhere.. I'll dig them up if you can't find it [I'm sure the archive also has picts somewhere too]

 

alright, that be koo if you have pictures thanks!

 

Pulled on him for 30 secs, so you were going what, like 80mph

 

95-100

 

HAHA I can't imagine how fast I'd be going in 30 seconds if my SHO does 200+ in 15 seconds....!!!!

 

Go here http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/6porttest.htm
AAroncake has done a nice writeup on how to test your 5th and 6 ports.
Hope it helps.

 

They are supposed to open under load from back pressure in the exaust system. However if you have deleted your cat you may not have the back pressure tube that should run along the side of your exaust tubing. If this is the case you can wire them open although this decreases your low end torque. Search the forums. You can find procedures on how to do this. Good luck. Oh and I take it you have an S4?

 

The whole back pressure thing with gutted/deleted cats is bs. I have run with just an open pipe; no cats, no muffler and my auxiliary ports still worked great. I can just rev the car and you can watch them work. Of course you must be sure everything moves very freely.

 

are you sure? your the only person that said that, and thanks RW-7 thats going to help alot all the write ups ive been reading has no pictures...and for the grease i'm suppose to use should i use gear oil or would WD-40 work?

 

Well the proof is sitting in my driveway and RW-7 has seen it with his own eyes.
It would be better for you to remove your LIM and clean everything well. Use Chemtool Barrymans carb cleaner it eats carbon like it was candy.
Make the sleeves move freely and that the pressure actuators are not locked up.
If they are working properly you should be able to actuate them just by pressurizing them with your mouth. You need no lube, just make sure everything is clean.
If after you do all that your still not sure they are operating then apply a little dark colored grease to the actuator shafts, take a short hard drive and look at the grease to see if they moved. If they haven't moved and you are sure everything moves freely then you either have a leaky hose or you have a massive exhaust somewhere before the actuator tube.
Please don't wire your sleeves open unless you hate low end torque.
Wiring them gains you nothing and kills torque. Unless you can't get them to work at all.

 

use red bearing grease.

 

just put a little on the shaft, drive it hard (redline) and see if the grease moved to one end of the shaft.

 

lol

 

since you dont have a cat, go ahead and take the actuators off. they dont work the way they are suppose to if the exhaust system has been changed in anyway, you also might want to think about the port actuator sleeve inserts that are available through pineapple racing. they are 50 bux and rob has claimes 5-7 hp gain, but few have had as much as 17 hp with a built up exhaust system. with those in you have to open them up otherwise i belive they wont work. seen as how you need to have the actuator off in order to use the sleeves. its a little bit of work but i have them in my car and well worth it.

 

Not true. They will still work fine if the entire system can move freely.
Don't make me take video of mine working with no exhaust.

 

haha "dont make me"

just wire them open with bailing wire low end loss but n/a's are slow *** ballz anyway so what gives. at least you know they work

 

yeh i tried moving it, wont move, does anyone have a picture or know what it looks like when its on the open position?

 

I removed both of the sleeves from the ports but left the actuators. So Im running it with no sleeves.

 

First question is do you still have your airpump? And if so there is a writeup on how to make them work off the airpump much like an s5 which is more relaibly as far as when the ports begin to open. You want them to start to open around when your secondaries come on. Or you can go all top end and wire them open but the system was put there on for a reason and thats to keep the low end. There are a few threads in the 2nd gen archieve on this so take a look over there.

 

I did some more research aobut the sleeves and I came to a conclusion of why in the hell did I remove them. When I first got my car the actuator was stuck closed I tryed to push them open but wouldn't work. So I removed the sleeves and they were caked in carbon build up. now the actuators work but theres nothing for them to do.

 

I went through all of this not long ago...

Elron... not disagreeing, but you must be the 1 in a million.

I removed my LIM, removed the sleeves and cleaned very well... Mine wouldn't work off the back pressure, stock cat... straight pipe.. whatever.... They just didn't work. They actuators themselves worked fine with about 5 psi, so I built an electric pump setup using a Summit RPM switch and a de-constructed air compressor pump. Took me all of an afternoon to rig it up.

As an aside, my speculation is that 2 things are needed to create the proper pressure conditions... Having a stock air pump ( not being blocked off ) and a decent amount of back pressure ( might not be AS important ) I deleted my emissions/ air pump some time ago, but every 2 years, come smog test time, i reinstall my air pump ( straight to the SAP bypassing the ACV ) and all of a sudden the actuators work.... interesting... seems that they need the air pump to give enough pressure to the system............ Speculation.

 

Old post.. Elron hasn't posted since that last one in 2007.. Just FYI.

 

I no how 2 do math.

30secs/15secs = 2

So...

200+mph x 2 = 400+mph WOAH!!! Thats too fast for the street. Keep that thing on the Track, or get a volvo...

 

lol... thanks... damn detailed fine print!