Se7enFD3S

Ok so I am considering buying an FC but wanted to know if there was any other choice of engine besides the stock block or an LS1. Don't get me wrong I understand why someone would want an LS1, its close to the same weight as a 13b and it has mass HP gains but its an American block in a Japanese car.......

Any other Japanese engine will perform at the same level as the 13b and keep the same weight setting? It seems to me that its either LS1 or nothing....

ps. How the hell does Earl Keep his running each season???

Rotarbeast

26bt FTW.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

anything is possible .... any engine ... just those have been done more often and have walk throughs and documentation on how to do the swap. Also a wider area of products made specifically for the swap.

If you search the forum you will see people putting tons of other engines in their 7s with much success, but tons more custom work and money is required. With enough money and time you can put anything in there, just at what point does it become unnecessary and to the point of diminishing returns? A lot of people think that owning a 7 in general is that point haha.

The next question is ... what are you going to be doing with the car where a ls1 or built 13b won't do? Set aside from a sub 10 second car, or some crazy need for power, the LSX and single turbo 13b can get you where you need to be. Have you been in a 300-400 rwhp rx7? It's stupidly fast.


Since we don't really know what you want to do with the car, it is hard to tell you what you will want. The weight "settings" I am guessing you are referring to is the even weight distribution? There are tons and tons of ways to put a heavier engine in the car and still keep the weight distro the same. Even with that being said, people can race cars with massively not 50/50 cars successfully if you know enough about suspension work. Now are you going to notice 50, 100 , 200 lbs difference in the front driver instead of rear pass? I seriously doubt it, because if you could you would already have a serious knowledge of racing and already know what kind of engines you could put in the 7 and how to keep the weight ratio close.

You have to ask yourself ... really ... what are you going to do with the car, and truthfully ask am I really going to race, or do I just want toooooo..

Fumi

buy a 240 and put an sr20 in it.
but no theres a couple guys that have put japanese piston motors in there rx7s

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

Well.. There are plenty of rotary options ^_-

13BT [if you buy an NA..]

13B RE [Japanese import engine.. Turbo]

13B REW [FD engine]

20B [Three rotor engine - I believe it is normally turbo'ed, and has *elluva power and torque]

26BT [4 Rotors... Nuff said, except... $$$$!!!!! :P]

and someone once said "Well.. Technically any engine CAN be put into ANY car.. but it's not always going to be practical."
Hence, you could probably stick something else in if you wanted to [much] more custom work [I've been curious to hear about an SR20, or an RB-series would be like for our cars.. Seems much more Japanese-y to have a JAPANESE engine ^_-]

...But my opinion, stick with a rotary option


EDIT: Dang guys! I was going to say that! I guess I should focus more on typing fast, than doing work :P
lol..

Fumi

here check out the Other Engine Conversion section
https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/


off the first page that ins't american swaps
RB20det to fc
https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/rb20det-%3D%3D-fc3s-767283/
1jz FC
https://www.rx7club.com/other-engine-conversions-non-v-8-118/1989-1jz-gte-powered-fc-rx7-769104/

pinoyremix

[QUOTE=Se7enFD3S;8457771

ps. How the hell does Earl Keep his running each season???[/QUOTE]

He abuses his engine..but im pretty sure he has more than one sitting around to throw in..that is something that unique..if you know how to rebuild a rotary..its great...and you get great power..

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Do you mean angry earl? You treat your engine right and it will treat you right. I used to have an old saying... lets see if I can remember it ...

... nope .. but it went something like our engines are very simple, once you figure out all the bases it is really worth the work.

Give your engines fuel, a good tune, and popper maintenance and they are wonderful powerful engines that will last you quite a while. If you cheap out, or cut corners, expect the engine to do the same and blow. Like in my case, do it right or do it twice.. oorr..... 9 times....

Also, I do not know much about his setup at all, other than his car is crazy, but I think he was using the stock turbo... maybe a hybrid, not going for any crazp 400 rwhp or anything. (at least thats what I remember from his last sale of all last seasons parts) In stock forum, it is pretty hard to blow it unless you do something stupid. (forget to premix, forget oil... over boost and fuel cut blah blah) All those go in the category of good maintenance.

Just one little side note.... You seem new to the forum, and welcome by the way. Nice to meet a new NW rotor head! But I used to be pretty .... ... hmm... I'm not sure if ignorant is the word, but ... I would think big... This past year, we had a central washington rotor meeting, and I remembered that two years ago I was looking at putting a turbo 20b in my FC. hahah At that time, I was almost 100% serious. I was staying up late every night researching, figuring out what to do blah blah blah, and when it came down to it... it was way over my league, and I realized that I really didn't need / want it. Now I am in no way putting down anybody else's 20b, congrats if you were to finish one successfully, but the work for the output was just not going to do for me. Looking back now, I was pretty childish thinking that I even had the funds to do such a thing, and I wasn't being realistic. So do yourself a favor, think it through, be realistic, and remember that everything is twice as hard as it seems, and is going to cost 3 times as much as your are quoted or think it will cost.

But in the end is it worth it? ... hmmm I donno quite yet ... ask me in a couple weeks when my e11 gets back from haltech.

pinoyremix

tweak you make a good point...i mean..for 1st gen..you really dont understand how much the power of the 12a is until..you take off the emissions..and just put a decent carb on it...after doing my swap..and also riding in lloyds car..i mean..its like..geez..why are all these ppl wanting to do a 12a turbo..if you just put a good carb on and take care of the engine..you can still get some amazing power out of it..

Se7enFD3S

The initial plan was to use the FC as a daily untill my GTS is destroyed then use the FC to Drift in it's place. Owning an FC and a GTS is sounding more and more like a bad idea. As for the 1jz from Mr. Virtal Bob and even Yas Hondo they both told me the 1Jz would be to heavy for an FC.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Yeup, I think a lot of people are stuck on numbers, but really don't know what those numbers mean. Also I think a lot of stock numbers are bloated more than people know. Just for the sake of examples... let me .... pick a newer car..

Honda accord - Specs

rated horsepower : flywheel - 271 @ 6200
curb weight - 3569 for 5 speed auto and 3446 for 6 speed manual

That horsepower is what the engine is putting out, but not how much it is putting to the ground. With the automatic transmission the rule is -30% and manual -15%. So in fact

Auto transmission power to the ground- 189.7
Manual transmission power to the ground - 230.35

Now the automatic car weight to rwhp ratio is 3569/189.7 = 18.8 lbs per 1 HP
manual = 3446/230.35 = 14.9 lbs per 1 hp

A stock FD is 1 284 kilograms or 2,830 pounds and has 255 flywheel horsepower. (it might be RWHP but we will give the honda the benefit of the doubt) so minus 15% = 216 rwhp.

2830/216 = 13.1 lbs per 1 hp

If the 255 is rwhp than it is 11 lbs per 1 hp.

Anyways, if you play with a simple quarter mile calculator, you will begin to notice how a 300 rwhp car that weighs 3,400 lbs, has the same estimated 1/4 mile times as a 250 rwhp car that weights 2800. Our cars are light and agile and just plain scary in the higher HP range...

(sorry for the long post after I started I got interested myself in the numbers. )

First go get some rides in a fast rx7 that is your generation. Then figure out what you are looking to do. Don't be stuck on I need 400 or I need 500 rwhp as it is just a number.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Drifting and FC does NOT require a lot of power. Suspension work and technique are more then 80% of what's needed. A stock turbo engine running 8ish psi can be drifted day and night and have a long life if needed. Doing a 1Jz swap and such for a backup drift car would be a waste in my opinion, as that money should be spent more on suspension work and daily repairs.

I used to drift my daily driver, and because of bad injectors, bad stock wiring harness, and back luck, I have went through a stupidly large number of engines in the past year and a half. If you are looking to keep it as a daily driver drift car, I would seek that elsewhere... maybe a eekk.. 240civic.. I mean 240sx.

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

hey tweak, i want a stupid amount of HP...lol
just for the OP, i have a FC that is putting out right at 300ish to the wheels. its pretty fun to drive, and breaking the tires loose in 2nd is no problem, its keeping the car strait ...
Rob

rotorette

Thanks for the new sig line tweak.
Here's my $.02 for what it's worth.
Buy an NA, swap it with a JDM motor when it blows up. Keep it NA. You will go through many less motors, headaches and $$ this way.
If you are going to race, do your research and do the mods that will keep you in stock classing so you can stay competitive. Mod classes are mighty expensive to compete in.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

one word on that. they dont make NA jdm motors... all rx7s in japan came turbo charged. that being said there are s6till plenty of cheap american motors that u could purchase.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Np rotorette. I do what I can.

haha, this I know, all too well. You have it you just need to fix a few little things.

woundup7

iTrader: (1)

If you want to go turbo just stick a S-5 jspec motor in there. Do a power fc conversion, and have it professionally tuned. Your looking at about $2500 hard money.

When it pops in 6 months to 2 years, just throw another $1000 jspec in there, you already have the tune for it, and its cost less than a rebuild kit. Part out the old motor and net back 300-500 bucks. It is really that easy, and if you have a kick *** wife like me, she will help swap out motors on the weekend.
Good luck.

Se7enFD3S

actually I have been on the fourm since 2005 but I lost my password to my old tag Se7enFD - the email address that went with it was deleted as well so I couldn't recover it.

I didn't want a 300HP rx7 I just wanted a more reliable FC that would be in the mid 200's

My other plan was to get an S13 and get the standard SR25 or possibly 28 set up with a S15 frount, but its so played out. Either way this choice is making me disapointed.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

oh wow mid 200s is actually really easy. And if done right can be very reliable. Rtec, bigger secondary injectors, bigger fuel pump, boost controller, and your almost done...

If you really wanted to do it easily will less pressure on the turbo, you could get a bnr hybrid for very cheap. IF I was to do it again, I would go hybrid.

EBC set to 9 psi: 284 whp


https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=304

that is just one little example not the best. His engine was having issues too.

ehime

iTrader: (18)

Pretty much any straight six will slide into an FC, as will
fours, flat fours will not, don't ask about Subaru in an FC.
There are all kinds of V8's that will go in aswell, there was
a thread that started and died with a Cadillac Northstar V8
in an FC roller. It all depends on how serious you are
about shoehorning the damned thing in there, and if you
have the time and money to see it through.

Se7enFD3S

I have around $12,000 and strickly I just wanted to keep it Japanese.

Whats an S-5 from?

Subaru?

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

omg buy an FD. My whole project didnt cost 12k and I have 350-400 rwhp. http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k..._9HGqF4e_qZlQw Aside from not having my meth injection and ignition upgrade (twin power) it is done RIGHT for 400 rwhp. I will be rocking it at 8-10 psi for around 300 rwhp.

Se7enFD3S

haha 12,000 will not get you an FD. It might get you a shell with a crappy engine in it but thats it.

whats an Bnr?

<------- retard that forgot how to use Quotes

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

http://bnrturbos.com/2ndGen.htm
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/bnr-turbo-dyno-sheets-please-629521/

Se7enFD3S

But thats just changing the turbo aspect of the car, keeping the rotary healthy is the ultimate task. Bob from Drift Office already told me he wouldn't touch these cars....same with Bill too. Does Pineapple use the BNR set ups?