Another Pony Related build Thread!!
#76
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
As a final note: anyone have any ideas on two things?
wiper assembly troubleshooting, sunroof disassembly? I really want to have a working sunroof and I looked at the layout of it but was only able to find the interior Allen wrench adjustment screw ...
Thanks guys..
wiper assembly troubleshooting, sunroof disassembly? I really want to have a working sunroof and I looked at the layout of it but was only able to find the interior Allen wrench adjustment screw ...
Thanks guys..
Last edited by Rx7_fanofspeed; 07-10-12 at 05:09 AM.
#77
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
Ah yes here a small list of what we have done to the motor:
Port Timing:-The Primaries close at 74 spec and open at stock spec.
-The secondaries open at slightly earlier than stock spec and close at stock spec.
Oil mods:-Turbo2 oil pump, smoothed out oil cavity and 90 degree edges.
-Smashed rear oil pressure regulator.
-New hardened stationary gears.
-Atkins oil pellet.
-Competition outer oil springs.
Other mods:
-RX-8 corner springs.
-Atkins apex seals.
-new apex and side springs.
Seals:
-Side seals, Corner seals and oil seals were reused.
Miscellaneous Items:
-Rear plate was bad. Better plate was used, and ported to proper spec as front plate.
-Aux actuators were bad. One was rusted up, and the other one was stiff. Both seals and gaskets were replaced.
-Pineapple Racing Aux inserts.
-Competition motor mounts , and transmission mounts.
-Water pump was replaced.
-Front cover was drilled and tapped for an oil return line for future turbo or supercharger install.
-Street/Strip pressure plate with stock disc and stock flywheel.
-Fuel injector O-rings were replaced.
-EGR block off plate was installed.
Port Timing:-The Primaries close at 74 spec and open at stock spec.
-The secondaries open at slightly earlier than stock spec and close at stock spec.
Oil mods:-Turbo2 oil pump, smoothed out oil cavity and 90 degree edges.
-Smashed rear oil pressure regulator.
-New hardened stationary gears.
-Atkins oil pellet.
-Competition outer oil springs.
Other mods:
-RX-8 corner springs.
-Atkins apex seals.
-new apex and side springs.
Seals:
-Side seals, Corner seals and oil seals were reused.
Miscellaneous Items:
-Rear plate was bad. Better plate was used, and ported to proper spec as front plate.
-Aux actuators were bad. One was rusted up, and the other one was stiff. Both seals and gaskets were replaced.
-Pineapple Racing Aux inserts.
-Competition motor mounts , and transmission mounts.
-Water pump was replaced.
-Front cover was drilled and tapped for an oil return line for future turbo or supercharger install.
-Street/Strip pressure plate with stock disc and stock flywheel.
-Fuel injector O-rings were replaced.
-EGR block off plate was installed.
#78
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
Okay! a small status update I have spark and compression but no fuel. All four injectors were flow tested and cleaned and have new O-rings and newish injector clips.
I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump I am picking up on Friday. any tips as I tackle testing this issue or issues?
I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump I am picking up on Friday. any tips as I tackle testing this issue or issues?
#80
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (25)
Pull the old pump & have a look- -also get a fuel pressure gauge from HF, etc.
Good build- be warned, a 255 will over-power the stock FPR & you'll run awfully rich- bad mpgs, worse acceleration, etc. May just want to get a stock replacement regulator..
Good work otherwise! the pony theme is lulz worthy
Good build- be warned, a 255 will over-power the stock FPR & you'll run awfully rich- bad mpgs, worse acceleration, etc. May just want to get a stock replacement regulator..
Good work otherwise! the pony theme is lulz worthy
#81
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
Well that is an interesting question: This is my first Rotary build, heck my first car build ever.
I wanted to do a whole paint scheme and engine bay paint but did not have the funds or the location for prep and paint. I will be giving her a paint job here once I get the fuel issues fixed.
I will keep this thread going for a bit since I have a lot of work to do still .
I wanted to do a whole paint scheme and engine bay paint but did not have the funds or the location for prep and paint. I will be giving her a paint job here once I get the fuel issues fixed.
I will keep this thread going for a bit since I have a lot of work to do still .
#82
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
Pull the old pump & have a look- -also get a fuel pressure gauge from HF, etc.
Good build- be warned, a 255 will over-power the stock FPR & you'll run awfully rich- bad mpgs, worse acceleration, etc. May just want to get a stock replacement regulator..
Good work otherwise! the pony theme is lulz worthy
Good build- be warned, a 255 will over-power the stock FPR & you'll run awfully rich- bad mpgs, worse acceleration, etc. May just want to get a stock replacement regulator..
Good work otherwise! the pony theme is lulz worthy
So a stock fuel pump would be the way to go then?
Yes, the pony theme is something I wanted to do for a while now. I think the final results will be epic in and of their own.
#83
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
ok peoples a small update:
this is from my dad and I doing some digging on the FSM and looking under the hood:
Measured 65-66 psi fuel pressure at fuel hose from fuel filter. Low spec is 64 psi. Borderline, but may be partially clogged fuel filter.
I traced pipe that fuel hose was attached to and it goes in front of F.I. assembly to connection on pressure regulator. Opened connection
there and pressurized fuel is at regulator. I hooked up a vacuum pump to nipple on regulator but it bleeds off vacuum rapidly.
Replaced pressure regulator. Since we have pressurized fuel from filter and up to regulator, I undid banjo bolt at firewall end of
upper (secondary) fuel rail but it was bone dry. Looked thru FSM and found fuel route thru this mess. Diagram shows high pressure
fuel from filter goes to pulsation dampener first, not regulator. High pressure should be at dampener and regulator should bleed off excess
pressure and should be a low pressure condition there, not high pressure. I went back to driver side where the high pressure hose and
low pressure return hose connect fuel pump path to the F.I. assembly and reversed hose connections. Jumpered check connector and
turned on key. Loosened banjo bolt again at fuel rail and Presto! We have fuel in the rail!
Still won't start but tries to catch while turning over. Possible borderline fuel pump pressure (65-66 psi), may be filling rails but not producing
enough rail pressure to give adequate volume to injectors. Also possible mismatch of injector wiring during reassembly on engine reinstallation?
Must be a description in FSM maybe of wiring diagram for injector firing. Unplugged upper rear injector and see 12vdc on one side of injector
plug with key on, but maybe wired out-of-order? don't know yet.
this is from my dad and I doing some digging on the FSM and looking under the hood:
Measured 65-66 psi fuel pressure at fuel hose from fuel filter. Low spec is 64 psi. Borderline, but may be partially clogged fuel filter.
I traced pipe that fuel hose was attached to and it goes in front of F.I. assembly to connection on pressure regulator. Opened connection
there and pressurized fuel is at regulator. I hooked up a vacuum pump to nipple on regulator but it bleeds off vacuum rapidly.
Replaced pressure regulator. Since we have pressurized fuel from filter and up to regulator, I undid banjo bolt at firewall end of
upper (secondary) fuel rail but it was bone dry. Looked thru FSM and found fuel route thru this mess. Diagram shows high pressure
fuel from filter goes to pulsation dampener first, not regulator. High pressure should be at dampener and regulator should bleed off excess
pressure and should be a low pressure condition there, not high pressure. I went back to driver side where the high pressure hose and
low pressure return hose connect fuel pump path to the F.I. assembly and reversed hose connections. Jumpered check connector and
turned on key. Loosened banjo bolt again at fuel rail and Presto! We have fuel in the rail!
Still won't start but tries to catch while turning over. Possible borderline fuel pump pressure (65-66 psi), may be filling rails but not producing
enough rail pressure to give adequate volume to injectors. Also possible mismatch of injector wiring during reassembly on engine reinstallation?
Must be a description in FSM maybe of wiring diagram for injector firing. Unplugged upper rear injector and see 12vdc on one side of injector
plug with key on, but maybe wired out-of-order? don't know yet.
#84
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
ok guys here is the car running with a little assiatnce on its own. Couple of corrections as I was trying to do three things at once. OIL mods not fuel mods I ment to say. Also the car with no gas applied dies right away so the correct term would be Low speed running..
thanks,
here is video now:
Here is car running on a little bit of gas. | Facebook
thanks,
here is video now:
Here is car running on a little bit of gas. | Facebook
Last edited by Rx7_fanofspeed; 08-21-12 at 01:18 AM.
#85
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
can anyone lend an ear to the video and see if the car sounds like anything amiss? I will be talking two more vidoes, minus talking. One under the hood, and one from the exhaust side of things..
Thanks!
Thanks!
#89
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
Hey Folks!
Small update: the car idles on its own now. The Idle is now around 1,400 rpms.
The car when the dashpot and the tension is adjusted, seems to be right around what is mentioned above. When the cable is let out on slack the car stumbles and the motor's overall running condition sucks . It will start at like 1,400 then slowly climb to 2,300 or 2,500 and keep doing this, The idle seems to surge pretty substantially. I will post a vid here soon when we have decent weather to show the symptoms.
Thanks,
Small update: the car idles on its own now. The Idle is now around 1,400 rpms.
The car when the dashpot and the tension is adjusted, seems to be right around what is mentioned above. When the cable is let out on slack the car stumbles and the motor's overall running condition sucks . It will start at like 1,400 then slowly climb to 2,300 or 2,500 and keep doing this, The idle seems to surge pretty substantially. I will post a vid here soon when we have decent weather to show the symptoms.
Thanks,
#92
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
#93
Original Blackfuries Plyr
Thread Starter
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