I'm new to Rx7's, my main thing is trying to figure out what the big difference is between a turbo 2 trans. and a non turbo 2 trans.

 

I'll bump this with what are you trying to do?swap out the N/A for a TII transmission?

 

I have the turbo 2 trans, but I was just wondering what was so different between the two. I've heard through out the years that it was "the" transmission to have.

 

Well, if you have a Turbo II car then obviously the Turbo II transmission would be "the" transmission to have, lol.

Compared to the non-turbo 86-92 transmission, the Turbo II transmission has a stronger case, a removable bellhousing, a bigger spline, mates to a heavier driveshaft, and has some internal modifications that make shifting a little faster. The downsides are that it is heavier, more expensive, and uses a larger (higher inertia) flywheel. In order to use the Turbo II transmission in a non-turbo car, you would also need to use a Turbo II starter, clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, flywheel, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts. Mazdatrix sells a special driveshaft that mates a Turbo II transmission to a non-turbo differential for those who don't want to swap the rear end. I have an FC RX-7 with a custom modified Turbo II bellhousing that allows the starter to pivot and mate to a smaller (lower-inertia) non-turbo competition flywheel, but this probably isn't worth the trouble for most people. My other RX-7 has the non-turbo transmission, which works just fine for street and autocross driving, and it currently has over 200,000 miles on it.

Also, the 89-90 GTUs RX-7 does not have the Turbo II driveline. I'm not quite sure where that rumor came from, but it isn't true.

 

What is the power rating for a turbo II trans? im planning a project my fiance and i want a drift ****. But planning on a carbed built 350. i know me being "new" on this forum makes me "newb" but im guessing ill have to have a supporting trans and rear end that are not mazda.... thanks btw cant access v8 swap thread for about 8 more posts so bare with me.

thanks
Joel

 

you will obviously want a GM transmission that will bolt directly to the SBC..

difference between the n/a and TII transmission is that one is junk and the other is not.

 

pretty much what i thought. well thats too bad that theres a large difference between the two. Is the rearends different aswell?

 

The T2 transmission can probably take somewhere around 450 lb-ft, but I am just guessing based on various project cars that I have seen over the years. You would probably want a T10, T56, Jerico, or other transmission that bolts to a V8, as well as a stronger differential that can take the torque of the engine. You can read Granny's website until you get enough posts for our V8 section.
http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/

Yes, the Turbo II has a stronger transmission, driveshaft, differential, and halfshafts.

 

Awesome guys, I appreciate the info. Yes my 7 has the Turbo II trans. Now I know, and like they say knowing is half the battle!

 

What clutch disc/pp setup did you use in this configuration?

 

It has a 1"x23-spline (Turbo II) Quarter Master 5.5" 2-disk clutch pack with Pro Series disks, and the flywheel is an old Billington 2-piece race unit what weighs 3 or 4 lbs. I am building a new setup on that car right now, and I may swap out to carbon disks if the car has trouble on the street.

 

i have one customer who has been running about 500whp/425tq for many many years on the street in front of the TII transmission, he just doesn't abuse it with drag launches but he has never broken one yet. he did however twist the newly rebuilt driveshaft, we had it rebalanced and it managed to hold up fine but it was vibrating the first time he put power through it.

n/a to TII differentials are about the same equivalent between the transmissions. many drifters and drag racers wind up snapping the half shafts or blowing the cases at half the power of the TII driveline components. the series 5 TII viscous is weaker than the clutch type S4 TII diff, the torsen 3rd gen is somewhere in the middle of those 2 for durability. the clutch type also gives much more solid engagement which is why many people prefer it, however it does wear out.

 

[QUOTE=Evil Aviator;11364690]The T2 transmission can probably take somewhere around 450 lb-ft, but I am just guessing based on various project cars that I have seen over the years. You would probably want a T10, T56, Jerico, or other transmission that bolts to a V8, as well as a stronger differential that can take the torque of the engine. You can read Granny's website until you get enough posts for our V8 section.
http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/


That's a sweet site only 400 for a basic kit which is what I would use. Life saver thanks for the link!!!

 

I am also new to this so i will ask another dumb question I'm doing the na engine s5 tii. tranny i got everthing except the right driveshaft yoke i hear the automatic yoke fits ? I can weld if need be any suggestions?

 

I think the automatic yoke is about the same length as the manual yoke, but you should measure to make sure. A bigger problem is that the OEM driveshaft has peened u-joints that are not intended to be removed. It can still be done, but it is something that should only be performed by a professional who has experience with this and is able to properly rebalance the driveshaft. I would rather just buy a new Mazdatrix driveshaft as opposed to spending a lot of time trying to piece-together something else.

 

I was thinking the same bout the mazdatrix ds once and done the right way is the only way. thanks again.