Trying to get one running...
#26
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I let it warm up for about 15 minutes. I'll look at the vac lines also.
The other thing is that after it runs, I let it warm up, but it still won's start without doing the advanced deflooding (pull plugs, crank, add oil, install plugs)
Could this be a compression issue? I haven't done the compression test since I first looked at the car. At that point the car had sat for at least 1 year. Using a standard compression tester with the valve removed, I got 80-80-80 on the rear, and 80-60-60 on the front. I figured I'd test it after we got it to fire to see if everything sealed up.
The other thing is that after it runs, I let it warm up, but it still won's start without doing the advanced deflooding (pull plugs, crank, add oil, install plugs)
Could this be a compression issue? I haven't done the compression test since I first looked at the car. At that point the car had sat for at least 1 year. Using a standard compression tester with the valve removed, I got 80-80-80 on the rear, and 80-60-60 on the front. I figured I'd test it after we got it to fire to see if everything sealed up.
#27
Are you experienced?
iTrader: (18)
Check that the mass air flow sensor is plugged in. The compression readings are low, but it isn't blown. The flooding could be due to it running so rich when you start it up that it floods from all the residual fuel in the combustion chamber.
Did you tear apart the intake manifolds? If so, did you use new gaskets, or at the minimum some sort of RTV?
Did you tear apart the intake manifolds? If so, did you use new gaskets, or at the minimum some sort of RTV?
#28
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
did another compression test this evening, and the front was 80 - 30 - 30. I did have the upper manifold off today, and reused the same gasket, just to see if I could get it running (Knowing that if I do take the car, it will get trailered to NC so I can spend more time with it.
Is there a way to do a good check of these cars to see if I shoud take it or not? My daughter would be the one driving it...
Is there a way to do a good check of these cars to see if I shoud take it or not? My daughter would be the one driving it...
#29
Are you experienced?
iTrader: (18)
80-30-30 is bad (rebuild time). The regular compression tester with the pressure relief valve held down will give you a decent reading. I would try to get another compression tester and double check your reading. You may have a blown engine if the compression is that low, unfortunately.
The proper way is using the special mazda compression tester. Maybe someone in your area has one??? A local member maybe? How long was it sitting for?
The proper way is using the special mazda compression tester. Maybe someone in your area has one??? A local member maybe? How long was it sitting for?
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It has been sitting where it is for over a year. I don't know how long it sat before that.
Would the low compression be the reason for the hard starting? I tried deflooding it again, but it doesn't seem to want to go unless I squirt oil in the chambers each time.
Would the low compression be the reason for the hard starting? I tried deflooding it again, but it doesn't seem to want to go unless I squirt oil in the chambers each time.
#31
Are you experienced?
iTrader: (18)
Well, I have seen an engine with a blown rotor and it started up just fine, but would run like crap. I am not expert with blown engines, but the fact that it starts when you pour oil in the chamber (which the oil is helping the engine build compression) leads me to the conclusion that may be your problem.
You do have the other spark plug in the camber when testing correct (only removed the one to hook up the tester)?
I will let others more experienced with blown engines chime in and give their opinion on this though. It is odd that you had higher numbers before and now they dropped to a pretty much dead rotor.
You do have the other spark plug in the camber when testing correct (only removed the one to hook up the tester)?
I will let others more experienced with blown engines chime in and give their opinion on this though. It is odd that you had higher numbers before and now they dropped to a pretty much dead rotor.
#33
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok. had some good luck today... It does start without doing the deflooding rain dance now. It still starts hard, but I just snuck up on it after dinner, and it started!
Maybe someone can chime in, but I think the high RPM idle is due to some plugged coolant lines running through the BAC valve, and back to the back of the throttle body.
Any thoughts?
Maybe someone can chime in, but I think the high RPM idle is due to some plugged coolant lines running through the BAC valve, and back to the back of the throttle body.
Any thoughts?
#35
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
To the original poster have you ruled out vacuum leaks and a stuck throttle as contributing factors? If so, then focus on the Fast Idle system.
Before looking at the FAST Idle there is the slimmest of chances that the Air Bypass solenoid (located to the right of the BAC) is receiving a constant ground which would activate it on a constant basis. To rule this out, one thing you could do is to disconnect the two wire plug to this solenoid, which has a B/W wire and a BR/Y wire, and then look for a noticeable change in the idle speed.
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
But it would have an affect on the Fast Idle Cam although it would have to be improperly set (stop screw and or Fast Idle adjustment screw)) for it to idle that high.
To the original poster have you ruled out vacuum leaks and a stuck throttle as contributing factors? If so, then focus on the Fast Idle system.
Before looking at the FAST Idle there is the slimmest of chances that the Air Bypass solenoid (located to the right of the BAC) is receiving a constant ground which would activate it on a constant basis. To rule this out, one thing you could do is to disconnect the two wire plug to this solenoid, which has a B/W wire and a BR/Y wire, and then look for a noticeable change in the idle speed.
To the original poster have you ruled out vacuum leaks and a stuck throttle as contributing factors? If so, then focus on the Fast Idle system.
Before looking at the FAST Idle there is the slimmest of chances that the Air Bypass solenoid (located to the right of the BAC) is receiving a constant ground which would activate it on a constant basis. To rule this out, one thing you could do is to disconnect the two wire plug to this solenoid, which has a B/W wire and a BR/Y wire, and then look for a noticeable change in the idle speed.
Once the car gets up here, I plan to replace all vacuum lines, and coolant hoses. Probably the whole thing needs to be flushed as it looked nasty.
I was thinking that the plugged lines didn't allow coolant to get to the fast idle cam...If that is the thing on the side of the throttle body close to the firewall...
I also noticed that this morning, I had to "prime" the fuel system again, so I suspect either a leaking pressure regulator, or leaking injectors. I'll be sending the injectors out to be cleaned as soon as I get the car up here.
#37
pissin' on pistons
iTrader: (26)
I had an FD here a few weeks back that had the absolute worst vacuum leak to track down EVER. The hose didn't break it just split so sometimes it worked sometimes it revved to 3K at idle. Either way. Grab some ether and see if that fixes your revs. As for the leaking fuel system. It's probably not the injector.... It's less likely its the injector. check the FPR and lines first.
#38
well you were questioning taking the car? i would defiantly take it for free lol!! if push comes to shove just put a 26b in it haha. you and your daughter would have plenty fun in the car lol
#40
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK. I stumbled across this thread tonight. After starting another thread earlier...
Anyhow, The RX7 is now in my garage! It runs like crap, but I haven't started on it yet, just took some before pictures so I can actually document this project.
I'll get some pictures posted, and then, I'll be going over her to make a "hit list" of items. My daughter really wants to get this thing on the road, so she's ready to dig in and start helping!
This should be fun! I just need to remember pictures! I forgot to document the progress on my Shelby Charger, and regret not taking that step now.
Anyhow, The RX7 is now in my garage! It runs like crap, but I haven't started on it yet, just took some before pictures so I can actually document this project.
I'll get some pictures posted, and then, I'll be going over her to make a "hit list" of items. My daughter really wants to get this thing on the road, so she's ready to dig in and start helping!
This should be fun! I just need to remember pictures! I forgot to document the progress on my Shelby Charger, and regret not taking that step now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post