Triangles eh? That sounds eas-what the hell is that?
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Triangles eh? That sounds eas-what the hell is that?
Hey guys,
I just purchased a 1988 Mazda RX-7 that has been sitting in some guys driveway for the last 5 years without being started.
The brakes are completely gone, as are the springs but everything else looks to be in mint condition. My question is, what should I look out for? What kind of oil does this thing take? From someone who has spent their entire life around piston pounders, how easy are these things to work on?
My plan once I get it trailered home is to tear out and completely rebuild the engine and diff. What should I be looking for when I do this? Is there a guide or some info online somewhere where I can research what it takes to tear one of these things down?
Also, where can I get new or used parts? Specifically brake parts right now (calipers, rotors, pads, and lines.) I would like to keep everything as cheap as possible so don't go reccomending carbon ceramic rotors with 14 piston calipers or anything rediculous like that. The car will likely see some track time so a small bump from stock would be nice.
Thanks.
I just purchased a 1988 Mazda RX-7 that has been sitting in some guys driveway for the last 5 years without being started.
The brakes are completely gone, as are the springs but everything else looks to be in mint condition. My question is, what should I look out for? What kind of oil does this thing take? From someone who has spent their entire life around piston pounders, how easy are these things to work on?
My plan once I get it trailered home is to tear out and completely rebuild the engine and diff. What should I be looking for when I do this? Is there a guide or some info online somewhere where I can research what it takes to tear one of these things down?
Also, where can I get new or used parts? Specifically brake parts right now (calipers, rotors, pads, and lines.) I would like to keep everything as cheap as possible so don't go reccomending carbon ceramic rotors with 14 piston calipers or anything rediculous like that. The car will likely see some track time so a small bump from stock would be nice.
Thanks.
#2
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This may help:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm
Yikes. It is safe to start from a perspective that the entire fuel system will be bad, and the engine will be locked into place. This might not be true, but it very well could be.
Regular motor oil like any other vehicle. 10W30 in cold climates, 20W50 in hot climates.
The how to buy guides from the FAQ may be of help:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm
I don't think there is an online guide on how to rebuild an engine, but many of the vendors sell videos which cover the process. Another resource is both the FSM (see the FAQ) and the Haynes manual. Also, the 2nd gen Archive forum contains several threads which cover rebuilds.
Mazda dealer, any auto parts store, etc. The vendors such as Mazdatrix also sell upgraded rotors and pads.
While the engine block itself is fairly unique, the rest of the car is rather conventional. You can get most chassis replacement parts from the auto parts store, save for a few items.
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm
The brakes are completely gone, as are the springs but everything else looks to be in mint condition. My question is, what should I look out for? What kind of oil does this thing take? From someone who has spent their entire life around piston pounders, how easy are these things to work on?
The how to buy guides from the FAQ may be of help:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm
My plan once I get it trailered home is to tear out and completely rebuild the engine and diff. What should I be looking for when I do this? Is there a guide or some info online somewhere where I can research what it takes to tear one of these things down?
Also, where can I get new or used parts? Specifically brake parts right now (calipers, rotors, pads, and lines.) I would like to keep everything as cheap as possible so don't go reccomending carbon ceramic rotors with 14 piston calipers or anything rediculous like that. The car will likely see some track time so a small bump from stock would be nice.
Thanks.
Thanks.
While the engine block itself is fairly unique, the rest of the car is rather conventional. You can get most chassis replacement parts from the auto parts store, save for a few items.
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Thanks for the help! the first link especially was packed with a lot of helpful info.
I know that BMW has a factory that makes all of the replacement parts for their old cars, it's called Mobile Tradition or some other stupid pretentious BMW name. Does Mazda have anything similar? I imagine I'm going to need to start replacing a lot of parts on this (all rubber hoses, entire fuel system, gas tank, probably rotor housing and apex seals.) are these still available new? or is my only option to go junkyard diving with a sawzall and a flashlight?
I know that BMW has a factory that makes all of the replacement parts for their old cars, it's called Mobile Tradition or some other stupid pretentious BMW name. Does Mazda have anything similar? I imagine I'm going to need to start replacing a lot of parts on this (all rubber hoses, entire fuel system, gas tank, probably rotor housing and apex seals.) are these still available new? or is my only option to go junkyard diving with a sawzall and a flashlight?
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You can still get a quite a few parts at the dealer. Only a few (such as interior parts) are getting hard to find.
I'm fairly sure that you can still order housings and rotors, though going to a vendor might get you a better price. Also, there is nothing wrong with a good used set of housings.
Auto parts stores can get you a fuel tank, generally. And the fuel lines are just standard injection lines.
I'm fairly sure that you can still order housings and rotors, though going to a vendor might get you a better price. Also, there is nothing wrong with a good used set of housings.
Auto parts stores can get you a fuel tank, generally. And the fuel lines are just standard injection lines.
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You can still get a quite a few parts at the dealer. Only a few (such as interior parts) are getting hard to find.
I'm fairly sure that you can still order housings and rotors, though going to a vendor might get you a better price. Also, there is nothing wrong with a good used set of housings.
Auto parts stores can get you a fuel tank, generally. And the fuel lines are just standard injection lines.
I'm fairly sure that you can still order housings and rotors, though going to a vendor might get you a better price. Also, there is nothing wrong with a good used set of housings.
Auto parts stores can get you a fuel tank, generally. And the fuel lines are just standard injection lines.
#6
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what interior parts are getting hard to find? Also the car has a button to select between comfort and sport suspension. It seems when activated to just push a rod onto the front shock and cause them to firm up a bit. Are these common? do they break often? Are they hard to remove?
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So I tried to start it yesterday and nothing happened. Fresh battery so I know it's not that. the headlights pop up and the hazards work so it is getting power, however turning they key to ACC results in no door bong, the interior lights don't work and neither does any of the electronics (it has no radio so I had to use the LCD in the dash), it also won't start. I don't get a click of the starter motor or anything, just nothing happens.
So I popped open the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that the Main 80A and the Eng ign 30A fuses had corrosion on them. Could that be the cause of this? If I replace these fuses will it start? If those fuses are corroded, is that indicative that the entire fuse block is also corroded? Where can I get a new one for crazy cheap?
So I popped open the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that the Main 80A and the Eng ign 30A fuses had corrosion on them. Could that be the cause of this? If I replace these fuses will it start? If those fuses are corroded, is that indicative that the entire fuse block is also corroded? Where can I get a new one for crazy cheap?
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#8
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So I tried to start it yesterday and nothing happened. Fresh battery so I know it's not that. the headlights pop up and the hazards work so it is getting power, however turning they key to ACC results in no door bong, the interior lights don't work and neither does any of the electronics (it has no radio so I had to use the LCD in the dash), it also won't start. I don't get a click of the starter motor or anything, just nothing happens.
So I popped open the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that the Main 80A and the Eng ign 30A fuses had corrosion on them. Could that be the cause of this? If I replace these fuses will it start? If those fuses are corroded, is that indicative that the entire fuse block is also corroded? Where can I get a new one for crazy cheap?
So I popped open the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that the Main 80A and the Eng ign 30A fuses had corrosion on them. Could that be the cause of this? If I replace these fuses will it start? If those fuses are corroded, is that indicative that the entire fuse block is also corroded? Where can I get a new one for crazy cheap?
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what interior parts are getting hard to find? Also the car has a button to select between comfort and sport suspension. It seems when activated to just push a rod onto the front shock and cause them to firm up a bit. Are these common? do they break often? Are they hard to remove?
The AAS suspension is likely totally worn out at this point. You will die if you see the price at the dealer for new parts, so generally a set of aftermarket springs and shocks is the solution.
So I popped open the fuse box in the engine bay and noticed that the Main 80A and the Eng ign 30A fuses had corrosion on them. Could that be the cause of this? If I replace these fuses will it start? If those fuses are corroded, is that indicative that the entire fuse block is also corroded? Where can I get a new one for crazy cheap?
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Before you even TRY starting it I HIGHLY suggest pulling the plugs, giving them a good cleaning (if not putting brand new ones in) and squirting a bit of fresh oil into each chamber (only need to do one hole on each side, front and rear)
changing the gas or at very least adding a good amount of fresh stuff never hurts either.
and your car will not start without that 80A fuse. clean or replace it, or wire a circuit breaker in there for a temporary fix (thats what i have on mine...good old Napa blowing my fuses while changing the alt and charging me to half-assedly fix it)
changing the gas or at very least adding a good amount of fresh stuff never hurts either.
and your car will not start without that 80A fuse. clean or replace it, or wire a circuit breaker in there for a temporary fix (thats what i have on mine...good old Napa blowing my fuses while changing the alt and charging me to half-assedly fix it)
Last edited by Cordt; 05-16-10 at 12:08 PM.
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