Trailing 2 timing way off...
06-05-12, 08:11 PM
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Trailing 2 timing way off...
I just got done with the timing in my s5 t2 engine in s4 vert. Leading 1&2, and trailing 1 is perfect but trailing 2 is waaaaayy out... How do I fix that?!?! The car won't start on its own. But now that the timing and idle were adjust it wants too but just can't... What do I do to fix trailing 2? The mark on the essentric shaft pulley is like 180deg. From where it should be...
06-06-12, 01:51 AM
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You can simply unplug and remove your CAS. (10mm bolt) - And then line-up the dimple on the CAS gear with the notch on the CAS shaft.
Remove the top lid of the CAS (two philips head screws). Make two reference marks that line-up inside of the CAS so that you can keep the gear dimple and shaft notch lined-up below. (Keep in mind, the CAS is still out of the front cover. I'm only using the pictures as a sort of reference.)
Now, line-up the YELLOW mark on the main pulley with the needle that sticks out of the front cover. (Yellow mark... Not the red mark as shown in the picture.)
"Stab" or reinstall the CAS making sure that your reference marks stay lined-up. Keeping the reference marks lined-up is important... It ensures that the gear dimple and shaft notch stay aligned during reinstallation. You can now tighten the 10mm bolt to keep the CAS in place. Reinstall the top cover or lid of the CAS with the two philips head screws.
Remove the top lid of the CAS (two philips head screws). Make two reference marks that line-up inside of the CAS so that you can keep the gear dimple and shaft notch lined-up below. (Keep in mind, the CAS is still out of the front cover. I'm only using the pictures as a sort of reference.)
Now, line-up the YELLOW mark on the main pulley with the needle that sticks out of the front cover. (Yellow mark... Not the red mark as shown in the picture.)
"Stab" or reinstall the CAS making sure that your reference marks stay lined-up. Keeping the reference marks lined-up is important... It ensures that the gear dimple and shaft notch stay aligned during reinstallation. You can now tighten the 10mm bolt to keep the CAS in place. Reinstall the top cover or lid of the CAS with the two philips head screws.
06-06-12, 01:17 PM
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You can simply unplug and remove your CAS. (10mm bolt) - And then line-up the dimple on the CAS gear with the notch on the CAS shaft.
Remove the top lid of the CAS (two philips head screws). Make two reference marks that line-up inside of the CAS so that you can keep the gear dimple and shaft notch lined-up below. (Keep in mind, the CAS is still out of the front cover. I'm only using the pictures as a sort of reference.)
Now, line-up the YELLOW mark on the main pulley with the needle that sticks out of the front cover. (Yellow mark... Not the red mark as shown in the picture.)
"Stab" or reinstall the CAS making sure that your reference marks stay lined-up. Keeping the reference marks lined-up is important... It ensures that the gear dimple and shaft notch stay aligned during reinstallation. You can now tighten the 10mm bolt to keep the CAS in place. Reinstall the top cover or lid of the CAS with the two philips head screws.
Remove the top lid of the CAS (two philips head screws). Make two reference marks that line-up inside of the CAS so that you can keep the gear dimple and shaft notch lined-up below. (Keep in mind, the CAS is still out of the front cover. I'm only using the pictures as a sort of reference.)
Now, line-up the YELLOW mark on the main pulley with the needle that sticks out of the front cover. (Yellow mark... Not the red mark as shown in the picture.)
"Stab" or reinstall the CAS making sure that your reference marks stay lined-up. Keeping the reference marks lined-up is important... It ensures that the gear dimple and shaft notch stay aligned during reinstallation. You can now tighten the 10mm bolt to keep the CAS in place. Reinstall the top cover or lid of the CAS with the two philips head screws.
06-06-12, 06:12 PM
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In theory yes I believe the firing would be 180 deg from the other trailing. But when you put a timing light on the spark plug wire it shows when it fires. So it showed that it was firing at the same time as t1 which would be 180 deg off...
06-07-12, 12:10 PM
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I read in another forum that there's a jumper by the battery you should put in so the ecu deletes the old timing and recognizes the new timing. Is this true??? And if so does anyone have a picture of where and what wires to jumper???
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06-07-12, 05:49 PM
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Use a 19mm socket and roll the engine over and put the pulley on the mark..align the bottom of the cas with it's notch.
Stab the CAS into the frot cover,holding the internal guts,so they don't move when stabbing it.
Put the bolt in the cas.
You should be just about perfect on stock timing.Check leading timing.You should be able to advance or retard timing by moving the outer part if the CAS to get leading timing.Quit screwing with trailing as it will drive you nuts..trust me.
Stab the CAS into the frot cover,holding the internal guts,so they don't move when stabbing it.
Put the bolt in the cas.
You should be just about perfect on stock timing.Check leading timing.You should be able to advance or retard timing by moving the outer part if the CAS to get leading timing.Quit screwing with trailing as it will drive you nuts..trust me.
06-07-12, 06:09 PM
#9
You should jumper the inital set coupler when setting timing. It's the two-prong green plug near the battery. The trailing timing isn't adjustable once the leading timing is set, so no reason to worry about it. If the plug wires (or the covers on the trailing coils) were swapped, that could explain the 180 degree difference.
06-07-12, 08:27 PM
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Use a 19mm socket and roll the engine over and put the pulley on the mark..align the bottom of the cas with it's notch.
Stab the CAS into the frot cover,holding the internal guts,so they don't move when stabbing it.
Put the bolt in the cas.
You should be just about perfect on stock timing.Check leading timing.You should be able to advance or retard timing by moving the outer part if the CAS to get leading timing.Quit screwing with trailing as it will drive you nuts..trust me.
Stab the CAS into the frot cover,holding the internal guts,so they don't move when stabbing it.
Put the bolt in the cas.
You should be just about perfect on stock timing.Check leading timing.You should be able to advance or retard timing by moving the outer part if the CAS to get leading timing.Quit screwing with trailing as it will drive you nuts..trust me.
06-07-12, 08:31 PM
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You should jumper the inital set coupler when setting timing. It's the two-prong green plug near the battery. The trailing timing isn't adjustable once the leading timing is set, so no reason to worry about it. If the plug wires (or the covers on the trailing coils) were swapped, that could explain the 180 degree difference.
Last edited by Vert88t2; 06-07-12 at 08:49 PM.
06-07-12, 08:35 PM
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I don't think you guys are gettin the point. L1&L2 &T1 are perfectly in time. T2 is out. It's not wasted spark or there wouldn't be a trailing plug??? I pull out all the plugs and T2 is SOAKED! It's not firing at the right time and isn't supposed to be that way. The car will not start on its own and I'm sure that the T2 that's off time has to do with it. At least I think... But I really need the right answer here not to just hear to not worry about it...
Last edited by Vert88t2; 06-07-12 at 08:50 PM.
06-07-12, 08:38 PM
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You should jumper the inital set coupler when setting timing. It's the two-prong green plug near the battery. The trailing timing isn't adjustable once the leading timing is set, so no reason to worry about it. If the plug wires (or the covers on the trailing coils) were swapped, that could explain the 180 degree difference.
06-07-12, 08:52 PM
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That's what I don't get I have 2 good ecu's that I tried. Ones stock. The other is rtek chipped. The only way I know they are good is cause I tries both in a buddy's car to check them and they are good. I'm so confuzzzlled
06-07-12, 08:55 PM
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The car is 88 vert with s5 T2 swap and 87 t2 ecu, afm, etc... Do you think there might be something wrong in the harness from the swap? And if so where do I start?
06-07-12, 09:17 PM
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are you sure that the t2 plug is firing ? if not the timing light may be firing from another plug wire. As far as getting your car started it should start on just the leading. Try it just to see what happens. unplug the input tothe ignitors or pull the plug wires and stick some plugs in there(grounded).If it starts and runs decent we can take that info and work with it.
Dave
Dave
06-07-12, 09:27 PM
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My last post was not very well thought out . even if your light was firing off another plug wire you would be closer to the mark than you say you are. I can't think of anything in the wiring that would cause this. I think it is the same trigger a T1 it just gets toggled between T1 and T2.
Dave
Dave
06-07-12, 09:37 PM
#21
I just got done with the timing in my s5 t2 engine in s4 vert. Leading 1&2, and trailing 1 is perfect but trailing 2 is waaaaayy out... How do I fix that?!?! The car won't start on its own. But now that the timing and idle were adjust it wants too but just can't... What do I do to fix trailing 2? The mark on the essentric shaft pulley is like 180deg. From where it should be...
I missed this before. There is no timing mark for trailing 2. The only marks on the pulley are L1/L2 and T1. So how do you know it isn't firing at the right time? The trailing plugs pick up a lot of noise and using a timing light can be difficult, at best. Since everything is based of the leading timing, no further adjustment is necessary.You can pull both trailing plug wires and see if that is really what is causing your issue. Also, a note about stabbing the CAS. If you look at it from the top with the black pickups at 3 and 9 o'clock, the points should be about 2 and 8.
06-07-12, 10:14 PM
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There is no timing mark for trailing 2.[/b] The only marks on the pulley are L1/L2 and T1. So how do you know it isn't firing at the right time? The trailing plugs pick up a lot of noise and using a timing light can be difficult, at best. Since everything is based of the leading timing, no further adjustment is necessary.
You can pull both trailing plug wires and see if that is really what is causing your issue. Also, a note about stabbing the CAS. If you look at it from the top with the black pickups at 3 and 9 o'clock, the points should be about 2 and 8.
You can pull both trailing plug wires and see if that is really what is causing your issue. Also, a note about stabbing the CAS. If you look at it from the top with the black pickups at 3 and 9 o'clock, the points should be about 2 and 8.
06-07-12, 10:50 PM
#23
... I put a mark on the outside of the pulley and seen that with the timing light on T2 it's 180 deg off. and also when I pulled the plugs out they were all dry except for T2. Confirming that T2 is off. I might try pulling the trailing wires... And the CAS is aligned perfectly along with the yellow leading mark on the pulley.
06-07-12, 11:07 PM
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Ok... If the T2 plug isn't getting spark why would it show up on the timing light??? I have to get a Haynes manual cause I don't have a pc and doing this on the phone makes me want to break it! And what I really don't get is it fired up with starter fluid and ran like a champ but wouldn't start on its own... Since I pulled the CAS and realigned it to speck it don't start at all... Which makes me think a few things...
1 fouled plugs
2 bad wires which I could just switch to T1 to test it
3 bad coil or wiring to the coil
4 wrong pulley??? Maybe whoever built the motor together put the NA pulley on instead of the Turbo 2? Would that make a difference? They never got the car to fire after the swap so it's a fresh Mild SP 13bt.
Do they have to be Turbo 2 coils?
And how do you check T2's timing if there's no mark for it??? I need a Haynes manual like a week ago...
1 fouled plugs
2 bad wires which I could just switch to T1 to test it
3 bad coil or wiring to the coil
4 wrong pulley??? Maybe whoever built the motor together put the NA pulley on instead of the Turbo 2? Would that make a difference? They never got the car to fire after the swap so it's a fresh Mild SP 13bt.
Do they have to be Turbo 2 coils?
And how do you check T2's timing if there's no mark for it??? I need a Haynes manual like a week ago...
Last edited by Vert88t2; 06-07-12 at 11:13 PM.
06-07-12, 11:12 PM
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And also when I set the timing and ran it before I pulled the CAS I had no clue about the initial set coupler... So I didn't jumper it... Was that a stupid thing to do?