i have most recently been experiencing in-and-out idling before completely warming up as well as lots of hesitation almost all the way throughout my rpm rang no matter what temp. i have diagnosed allot of censors and adjustments including the TPS, crank angle censor, timing, BAC, and checked air lines thoroughly. I feel as though I've been getting close to working it out, but most recently my TPS adjusting lights are not giving proper feed back any more. when i adjust to where one light should be on at once, i don't get the other when i press the throttle. i dont even get two lights at once when the adjusting bolt is in any other position (i know two lights at once is the not what you want, but i should still be able to obtain it). it wasnt doing this last week and the ohm test is showing a good TPS censor. a link I've used allot is globalvicinity.com and the "2nd gen specific" forums. another thing that's really hard to find out is, how much i should advance my timing, maybe 1/4" to the left of the mark or what? right now I've got it dead on the mark. its also almost time for some new spark plugs too so...yeah. any insight would be much appreciated.

 

i was able to salvage my TPS after taking some advice and spraying some WD-40 in between the plunger and sleeve, and of course working it. with the light readings still not coming back as they should i was able to adjust using a ohm meter and now allot of the problems are gone, god i love my car.
now i just need to know how far to the left of the timing mark i should put my pully marks to advance the timinig.

 

i've found some info on how much i should advance should i choose to, as well as the effects. i found that if i want more torque at higher rpms then advance approximately 10 degrees. if that be true then i think ill be fine with my stock n/a s4
if anyone could verify this that would be cool.

 

DO NOT adjust your timing by rotating the CAS. Leave it alone. If you turn it enough to advance 10 degrees (which is all going to be a guess) it will affect the engine at all RPMs and conditions. NA or not, you will blow the engine if you do that. You need a standalone EMS or Rtek 2.0 (www.pocketlogger.com) to properly adjust the timing map. Even then, only small changes should be made (not 10 degrees!). If you insist on trying to squeeze more power out of the engine, buy an SAFC and a wideband 02 sensor, then read up on pulling some fuel out of the map. Some decent (and much safer) gains can be had via these kind of adjustments. Timing is a dangerous thing to play with.

 

thanks for for the info. i read the pdf for using the Rtek7 @ (www.pocketlogger.com) and even then i dont think ill touch my timing, but it sure does make me wish i had $450 for that chip, thats some good stuff.

i think that the SAFC or SAFC II are more along my current budget. do you have a link for showing what all is involved with the SAFC like wiring, suggestions and FAQs or even a good retailer. (does it replace the ECU?)

 

u mean maf? the 2/3 click method? or MAP as in manifold abs. pressure?

 

Neither one. I mean map, as in the fuel map / table stored in the ECU. I don't mean the acronym MAP. And technically an SAFC doesn't change the map. It just fools the ECU into using different values.

I don't know what the "2/3 click method" is exactly, but if you're referring to adjusting the the gear in the AFM (air flow meter), that's also a bad idea. Much like playing with the CAS, that would adjust fuel under ALL driving conditions.

 

yep thats what i was referring to. and yeah seems like the ghettoest thing you can do to "try" to make an rx7 faster (which i dont really think it works). plenty of ppl do it out here... but its ok cause i got 2 that are untouched!

thanks for the clear up rocket