nc30pete

I'm trying to run thru as many checks as I can before going down the route of fitting my power fc to my Rex/cappuccino hybrid and I have got some tps testing instructions , my questions are ;

As my engine has been converted to single turbo and quite a lot has been removed, when you guys carry out single turbo conversions what sensors remain in use on the throttle body ? I want to know if the aws solenoid would still have an affect on the tps readings at cold? I know it says ur meant to check when warm but as my hybrid isn't running right I don't want to try running it rough that long - or can I de adjust any parts of the throttle *** so it doesn't affect my tps readouts?

Second question;

As I'm aware all the tps is a variable resistor , as long as I have good voltage from battery my readings shouldn't be affected by the fact my loom is half Suzuki half Mazda ? Reason is I took a quick check of my readings cold and the one that stuck out badly was the w.o.t reading whilst tapped into the bottom black wire. All I got was 1.06volts and as I understand it the spec should be 4.2-4.6volts? Even if i got it warm I can't see that changing my reading by at minimum by 3 volts as adjustment range on the tps only is about 0.15v ? So would I possibly have a faulty tps? Thanks in advance ;-) god this tool so long writing this on my I phone lol

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Oy. There aren't many sensors on the FD's TB. There is the TPS sensor and the AWS. Removing the AWS is well documented in the 3rd Gen FAQ thread. The whole purpose of the Automated Warmup System is to open the TB butterfly valves when cold so that answers one of your questions.

How to adjust the TPS is also in the 3rd gen FAQ thread so I'm not going to repeat that info here. I doubt you have a bad TPS but its possible. I'd suggest adjusting it and checking it again.

Good luck

nc30pete

I shall look into the aws removal , thanks squire !

Regarding my tps , I did try and adjust it that's how I found the range I can adjust it by, consequently , I removed it and played with it by hand whilst still plugged in, checked the voltage as I manually turned the switch and it showed a lovely progression of voltage rise but once I got to a smidge over 1.2 volts it just shoots to about 2.3 volts then if ii turn it a bit more it drops down to 1ish volts and flutters between 1 and 2 volts until I get to full travel on the switch, which the voltage maxed out at 2.6 ish volts. This doesn't seem right to me like maybe thd tracks are burnt and this could possibly giving incorrect signals to the ecu?

nc30pete

Oh and I tried to click on the aws link and that rotormania site doesn't seem to be there ?

Gringo Grande

iTrader: (97)

There are quite a few dead links in the 3rd Gen Archives. I sent an entire list to several of the Mods of all the dead links a few months back but unfortunately none of them saw fit to make the deletions I guess.

This may help with your question: http://www.fd3s.net/aws_mod.html

nc30pete

anyone got any thoughts regarding the readings im getting from my tps at all? Does anyone think the readings im getting are a bit perculiar and the way it reads low then high and low again ?

Gringo Grande

iTrader: (97)

Are you using screws or allen/hex bolts to hold it in place?

nc30pete

its was screws but as i have taken it off its going to be replaced with allen bolts, why do you ask?

Gringo Grande

iTrader: (97)

IMHO you get a bit more solid hold with the allen bolts which might help small adjustments. Just throwing it out there.

nc30pete

in my mind at this stage i dont think it being screws or allen bolts will have any effect on me getting the two extra volts i need at full throttle setting when i probe the black wire ? even with the tps loose on its screws it doesnt let me adjust the switch to get my readings in the required range, which was why i took the switch off the uim and tested it again whilst still plugged in and it still never gave me any higher reading , it just went a bit crazy. I twist it more and it goes up, then down, up again ... wrong in my eyes but what does everyone else think?

btw, i have a used tps coming to me , at ten pounds inc delivery it doesnt matter even if i am barking up the wrong tree lol - its a cheap mistake if that turns out to be the case and i will have a spare anyway so win win :-)

nc30pete

well i recieved my s/hand tps on sat and fitte it over the weekend, before i attached it i plugged it in to the tps plug and checked the voltages and it did confirm my suspicions- i had one truly fudged tps!!

But , i attacked the situation a bit wrong as i now have another problem. I looked into the tps setting up guide thread and it said in order to get the right readings set on the tps you have to set the throttle butterflies to ground zero . Well i did de adjust screws on the body and the air screw on the underside of the air intake ( stupidly so i didnt take down my original settings before adjusting, twonk yes i know...) and went onto fitting the tps and setting it up to the correct voltage readout specs. upon this i tried to start it ( after removing plugs , disconnecting coil plug and removing the fuse to stop fuel pump and blasting excess out the bores) and it started almost instantly , success there at least :-)

But when running it doesnt sound quite right, I have no excess smoke when running , im assuming it is running on both rotors because it started so well but im not sure how to re set the throttle body screws to a base setting as i cant find any relevant literature to set them up to ? I mean when i was going round the production line it must of been manually setup on the screws at some point before proper tuning right? U gotta start from somewhere lol

the engine starts every time now without fail now but its idling at 1500rpm , its also got a management light on the digi motorbike dash which was retro fitted to my hybrid. Sure it wasnt on to begin with and im hoping thats just down to where i messed with all the tb settings perhaps?

I tried doing the diag short out test from the diag box but it doesnt seem to activate the blink code procedure - i just found some literature how to use terminals on the diag box with the aid of an led and resistor to get it to blink out of the said equipment, i will do that tomorrow but for now my main questions to the rotary guru's are :

1. Do you know any base settings to adjust all the throttle body screws to?
2. Would adjusting these screws caused the managment light to come on?
3. Got any other suggestions?

Thanks for all input so far peoples, it is aprreciated a lot, i apologise if im not looking in the correct areas for these answers - im sure you have seen this noob trait many a time before ;-)