TPS 86 S4 n/a question.
12-23-10, 03:49 PM
#1
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TPS 86 S4 n/a question.
i keep searching, but it proves pretty difficult to weed thru all the threads that dont have my problem to get to the one that does when im currently workin with a very primitive dial up connection....so im sorry if this question has been covered before...
im interested in rewireing my TPS...can it be done...can i take my TPS apart and rebuild it...took it off the car and was lookin at it...dont want to break the casing for it so im askin first...
i hooked up TPS connect, warmed up car...shut it off, tested with the test lamp...TPS made clicking sounds as i was adjusting the screw...got it to where i thought it should be...ended up wiggleing the wires a bit and light goes off and on like theres a bad wire connection...
then i unplugged the connection and tested with a analog multi meter....well in the FSM it says test ohms between (A) and (B) and see that it reads within spec...i think its 1k throttle closed and 5k give or take 1k when throttle open(that one tested fine)
then test between (A) and (C) and that should be within spec too...i think its 5k give or take 1k whether the trottle is open or closed...(well that one didnt test out so well) it was around 5k while trottle was closed but then when i opened it, it jump way low...to like .3k or maybe .03k not sure which but it wasnt where it should be...
so in conclusion, i dont have the funds to spend nearly $200 on a new TPS...this is why i was wondering if theres a way to rebuild it or at least re-wire it. i re-wired it somwhat, but i just spliced the wires close to the TPS casing, found that the wires were pretty corroded so i want to go all the way in there and re-solder the wires...has anyone ever opened up there TPS? can i do it, or am i SOL and need to plan on saving to get a new one...also can i check the other side of the connection and maybe re-wire it...it seems to go into the main wireing harness...if i take a multi meter to it does anyone know the procedure for testing it and what it should read?
thanks so much you guys, i love this forum...very helpful stuff...
oh yeah like the title says...i gota '86 S4 N/A, thanks!
im interested in rewireing my TPS...can it be done...can i take my TPS apart and rebuild it...took it off the car and was lookin at it...dont want to break the casing for it so im askin first...
i hooked up TPS connect, warmed up car...shut it off, tested with the test lamp...TPS made clicking sounds as i was adjusting the screw...got it to where i thought it should be...ended up wiggleing the wires a bit and light goes off and on like theres a bad wire connection...
then i unplugged the connection and tested with a analog multi meter....well in the FSM it says test ohms between (A) and (B) and see that it reads within spec...i think its 1k throttle closed and 5k give or take 1k when throttle open(that one tested fine)
then test between (A) and (C) and that should be within spec too...i think its 5k give or take 1k whether the trottle is open or closed...(well that one didnt test out so well) it was around 5k while trottle was closed but then when i opened it, it jump way low...to like .3k or maybe .03k not sure which but it wasnt where it should be...
so in conclusion, i dont have the funds to spend nearly $200 on a new TPS...this is why i was wondering if theres a way to rebuild it or at least re-wire it. i re-wired it somwhat, but i just spliced the wires close to the TPS casing, found that the wires were pretty corroded so i want to go all the way in there and re-solder the wires...has anyone ever opened up there TPS? can i do it, or am i SOL and need to plan on saving to get a new one...also can i check the other side of the connection and maybe re-wire it...it seems to go into the main wireing harness...if i take a multi meter to it does anyone know the procedure for testing it and what it should read?
thanks so much you guys, i love this forum...very helpful stuff...
oh yeah like the title says...i gota '86 S4 N/A, thanks!
12-24-10, 03:36 PM
#2
You can't rebuild the TPS as far as I know. Go into the classfieids section and post a wanted ad for a TPS, you won't pay $200 for one. People here will give you a nice deal on one.
As far as rewiring? I don't understand your question. If your wires are bad on the TPS, I wouldn't hack the engine harness just to get it to work, if all you need to do is fix the wires on the TPS side of things, then do what you have to do. Most likely if the TPS wiring is bad, it will be where the wires meet the harness to go into the engine harness. If you want to check your engine harness (where the TPS plugs into), you will remove the harness from the ECU and take your multimeter to test for continuety at both ends.
Good luck.
As far as rewiring? I don't understand your question. If your wires are bad on the TPS, I wouldn't hack the engine harness just to get it to work, if all you need to do is fix the wires on the TPS side of things, then do what you have to do. Most likely if the TPS wiring is bad, it will be where the wires meet the harness to go into the engine harness. If you want to check your engine harness (where the TPS plugs into), you will remove the harness from the ECU and take your multimeter to test for continuety at both ends.
Good luck.
12-24-10, 05:10 PM
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hey thanks for the info man...uhm, lookin at the wiring harness is a little intimidating...it looks very old...
not sure what you mean by checkin cont. at both ends, you're talkin ohms? dont know what it should read...is that covered in the FSM? wire diagram? i printed most of the FSM but the last 2 sections.
i would love to check all points on the harness...where do you think i should look for that kind of procedure...
also, i figured that if the TPS side of the wiring is corroded with green bla bla then yes i think its probably like that on the wiring harness side too...
sson as the rain clears, ima go to the ecu and check it as per FSM 4a-30(i think)...any other suggestions would be great man...thanks again..truly.
not sure what you mean by checkin cont. at both ends, you're talkin ohms? dont know what it should read...is that covered in the FSM? wire diagram? i printed most of the FSM but the last 2 sections.
i would love to check all points on the harness...where do you think i should look for that kind of procedure...
also, i figured that if the TPS side of the wiring is corroded with green bla bla then yes i think its probably like that on the wiring harness side too...
sson as the rain clears, ima go to the ecu and check it as per FSM 4a-30(i think)...any other suggestions would be great man...thanks again..truly.
12-24-10, 05:47 PM
#4
hey thanks for the info man...uhm, lookin at the wiring harness is a little intimidating...it looks very old...
not sure what you mean by checkin cont. at both ends, you're talkin ohms? dont know what it should read...is that covered in the FSM? wire diagram? i printed most of the FSM but the last 2 sections.
i would love to check all points on the harness...where do you think i should look for that kind of procedure...
also, i figured that if the TPS side of the wiring is corroded with green bla bla then yes i think its probably like that on the wiring harness side too...
sson as the rain clears, ima go to the ecu and check it as per FSM 4a-30(i think)...any other suggestions would be great man...thanks again..truly.
not sure what you mean by checkin cont. at both ends, you're talkin ohms? dont know what it should read...is that covered in the FSM? wire diagram? i printed most of the FSM but the last 2 sections.
i would love to check all points on the harness...where do you think i should look for that kind of procedure...
also, i figured that if the TPS side of the wiring is corroded with green bla bla then yes i think its probably like that on the wiring harness side too...
sson as the rain clears, ima go to the ecu and check it as per FSM 4a-30(i think)...any other suggestions would be great man...thanks again..truly.
I doubt you will have issues with your engine harness unless someone hacked it, if the connector plug for the TPS is corroded, just clean it out with electrical cleaner.
12-24-10, 06:08 PM
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wait, im sorry i just want to be sure i get it, theres 3 male prongs on tps side and 3 corisponding female on the harness side. one horizontal and two vertical...but theres one probe for pos, and one for neg...you get where im goin with this q...?
do i just mach'em up and test each one? if so, what should it read, doesnt matter as long as its reading somethin?
sorry man, im not really a dumby, just lackin a little knowledge...(and apparently dont know how to spell to well.)lol
do i just mach'em up and test each one? if so, what should it read, doesnt matter as long as its reading somethin?
sorry man, im not really a dumby, just lackin a little knowledge...(and apparently dont know how to spell to well.)lol
12-24-10, 06:11 PM
#6
You test each wire individually, tracing the wire color at the TPS connector on the engine harness to the same wire color at the ECU end of the engine harness. You are looking for something close to 0ohms. since there should be nothing connected between your positive multimeter lead and the negative lead (its just a wire). As long as you don't get "out of limits" on the multimeter (which indicates a broken wire), you are fine.
This is the equivilant of touching your positive and negative leads on your multimeter toghether, you will get something close to 0hms. That means there is continuity between the two leads.
If you can find the factory service manual with the electrical diagrams, you can see where exactly on the ECU end of the harness is the appopriate wire you are trying to test continuity for.
I will lead you to the water:
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page...nual#secondgen
This is the equivilant of touching your positive and negative leads on your multimeter toghether, you will get something close to 0hms. That means there is continuity between the two leads.
If you can find the factory service manual with the electrical diagrams, you can see where exactly on the ECU end of the harness is the appopriate wire you are trying to test continuity for.
I will lead you to the water:
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page...nual#secondgen
12-24-10, 06:16 PM
#7
Forgot to mention, this will only tell you if you have a break in the wire. Now pinpointing this break will be another story. Like I said, start by cleaning your connectors if they are corroded, it isn't common for wires to just break unless someone hacked it.
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12-24-10, 06:37 PM
#8
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**** man, you are bein extremely helpfull thank you alot.
im pretty sure no one has hacked into the harness, looks stock but old so i just assumed it is brittle, so lets hope it checks out good...
however i think i got one more q...
on the tps side connector peice, i tested the top one and the left one(a to c) and got a normal reading when the throttle was closed, but then i opened the trottle and it went from 5k ohms to 300ohms, thats not correct is it?
im pretty sure no one has hacked into the harness, looks stock but old so i just assumed it is brittle, so lets hope it checks out good...
however i think i got one more q...
on the tps side connector peice, i tested the top one and the left one(a to c) and got a normal reading when the throttle was closed, but then i opened the trottle and it went from 5k ohms to 300ohms, thats not correct is it?
12-24-10, 09:21 PM
#10
Ok. I am assuming you are using the test lamp that is similar to the one shown in the factory service manual with TWO lights correct? If not, please let me know.
Ohmeter connected to points A-B:
@ idle position (throttle plates closed) should be 1kOhm
@ full open (throttle plates fully open) should be 5kOhm (+- 1kOhm. this means between 4-6kOhm)
Points A-C
@idle: 5kOhm (+-1kOhm)
@full open: 5kOhm (+-1kOhm)
When adjusting the screw to get the TPS set correctly, there are 3 possible senarios as you turn the adjustment screw.
1. Only one light lights up - GOOD!
2. Both lights light up - Bad! - Keep adjusting
3. No lights light up - Bad! - Keep adjusting
Hope that helps.
5kOhm = 5,000 Ohm
Ohmeter connected to points A-B:
@ idle position (throttle plates closed) should be 1kOhm
@ full open (throttle plates fully open) should be 5kOhm (+- 1kOhm. this means between 4-6kOhm)
Points A-C
@idle: 5kOhm (+-1kOhm)
@full open: 5kOhm (+-1kOhm)
When adjusting the screw to get the TPS set correctly, there are 3 possible senarios as you turn the adjustment screw.
1. Only one light lights up - GOOD!
2. Both lights light up - Bad! - Keep adjusting
3. No lights light up - Bad! - Keep adjusting
Hope that helps.
5kOhm = 5,000 Ohm
12-24-10, 10:17 PM
#11
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i actually used the test lamp in the first place, then quickly found that when i wiggled the wires on the tps connect while it was connected, the lights went speratic...then i unhooked the tps connection and took the analog multi meter to the male prongs on the tps side of the connection, i then put a probe from the meter to the (a) and the other to (b) it read 1k ohms while the trottle was closed and 4.5k ohms when it was WOT...good reading on that one(b side)
then i did the same for (c) and (a) and while the throttle was closed the meter read another4.5k ohms(good), then i opened the throttle all the way and the guage on the meter jumped pretty far down to around only 3hundred ohms...i dont think thats correct, the FSM says that whether the throttle is closed or wide open while reading ohms for prong (a) and (c), should be between 4k and 6k ohms. but thats not what i got.
so because i got an incorrect reading while the throttle was wide open and the tab on the spring loaded throttle gear was not touching the tps(the shaft, you know where they contact), then i was thinking adjusting the screw wouldnt do a thing, because the shaft in the tps is all the way out anyway...right? er, am i missing somthing, idk?
then i did the same for (c) and (a) and while the throttle was closed the meter read another4.5k ohms(good), then i opened the throttle all the way and the guage on the meter jumped pretty far down to around only 3hundred ohms...i dont think thats correct, the FSM says that whether the throttle is closed or wide open while reading ohms for prong (a) and (c), should be between 4k and 6k ohms. but thats not what i got.
so because i got an incorrect reading while the throttle was wide open and the tab on the spring loaded throttle gear was not touching the tps(the shaft, you know where they contact), then i was thinking adjusting the screw wouldnt do a thing, because the shaft in the tps is all the way out anyway...right? er, am i missing somthing, idk?
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