rotary everything!

iTrader: (1)

so ive searched around for a bit and couldnt find anything pertaining to the question i got...that is, i want to know if my oil metering pump is workin properly.

its an 86 S4 N/A so the OMP is mechanincal...
well, i got some starting issues. i think its got just a bit to do wth the OMP...y'see i've noticed that the car doesnt really start up too well until the oil runs thru the oil metering lines and gets pumped in to the oil injectors.
my suspicion is that the compression doesnt raise high enough to turn the motor over until the oil gets there to increase the compression...i understand that my compression isnt the greatest, and im almost ready for a rebuild, but i still dont like the fact that, for now, i have to keep cranking until the oil makes it all the way up there. however this only works the first start of the morn...no matter what i try when i get stuck at the store(even if the oil in the lines is all the way up) i have to pop start it...im getting really tired of parkin on a hill 3 blocks away from the store.

so when i shut my car off and let it cool down for a few mins, it doesnt want to start...AT ALL. doesnt matter if i go through the deflooding process several times...i think it has to do with a few different things, but my concern here is the OMP lines...

i just want to know if its normal for the oil in the lines to go back down after the car is shut off. they are new lines from mazda, and i can see right throu them, its pretty evident what the oil is doing...and im not sure if the oil is supposed to remain in the line or go back down like it does in my case.

anybody that may know the answer to this please help...i would appriciate it very much...i couldnt find info on it in the FSM or through various searches online. thanks guys.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

A film of oil remains in the chambers after you shut the engine off. I don't think you should be worrying about the oil injectors. They don't actually inject, they just drip very small amounts of oil. A rotary can be started and run for some time without any oil injection or pre-mixed oil (though wear will occur much faster). Gasoline also lubricates the seals. I can't say whether or not the oil travels back down the lines after the engine is shut off since they're covered, but I would not be surprised if it did. I don't think the OMP has a check valve.

Your cold start issue could be related to the water temperature sensor on the back of the water pump. If this is disconnected, cold starts will be difficult. Sometimes the pins get pushed into the sensor. A faulty sensor can also cause issues.

Your hot start issue is almost definitely related to temp sensor, but it may not be something you can fix. The ECU is programmed to inject way too much fuel under warm to hot conditions. Combine this with reduced compression due to engine mileage, and you can end up with a car that is very hard to start. Fuel cut switches are the simple work-around, but not a fix. A programmable ECU is the only true fix (Rtek 2.x or standalone).

Check out this thread that covers starting fuel delivery: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=hot+start. A switch on the water temp sensor is suggested, though the effect is almost the same as using a fuel cut switch.

rotary everything!

iTrader: (1)

cool man, thanks for the great info...i was going to check the operation of my ECU and ground points today, but its rain season, with no car port...sucks
anyway i want to go standalone...planing on keepin it n/a i think, and just getting as much power as possible that route, do some ports and stuff, but what im thinkin is if i dont do a turbo, then i dont really need a super fancy(exspensive) standalone...any suggestions?
sorry man but, searchin around with this slow *** computer sucks so much, you wouldnt believe...you remember dial up? lol...
oh yeah one more q...that water thermo sensor...if i remove that to inspect, is coolant gonna come out? dont wanna drain whats in there, i just did a flush...
im sorry i know i sound like a retard, but im learnin...

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Browse the engine management subforum for information on standalones. They're all going to be fairly expensive once you consider the time & money needed to tune the car.

You won't be able to remove the water temp sensor without doing a partial drain of the system.

rotary everything!

iTrader: (1)

cool thank for the heads up on both those....
1) ill start savin for a stand alone, in the mean time i'll do some really slow searches.
2) yeah i was just thinkn bout pullin it off to test it real quick, glad i didnt do that yet, lol.

one more thing...'Your hot start issue is almost definitely related to temp sensor'
air temp sensor? water temp sensor?

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Water temp sensor. The two air temp sensors play a smaller role in fuel injection calculations, and I'm not sure they're even used for startup.

rotary everything!

iTrader: (1)

cool man ill check it out(soon as it stops raining), thank for everything man, very helpful stuff.