so I comp tested my motor and I got about 90 or so overall psi in the front rotor and 60 overall in the rear , I was wondering If I could pull the rear iron and replace the apex seals? and of course the water seals too. the housing should still be in a good shape right? i'm sure im getting 2 30psi bounces and one 60.

any suggestions.... i'm super duper broke and cant afford a rebuild right now

 

can it be done? yes.

do i recommend it? no.

no one here can say if the housings are in good shape or not. you'll find out only when you pull it.

 

you want someone to give you the green light? you won't get it.

it can be done, but it is not recommended to only focus on half of an engine.

 

so am I SOL? Could I possibly be getting false readings from flooding? my car does run rich, black plugs.

 

just because everyone is going to tell you not doesn't mean it isn't possible, it's just not recommended.

do it and cross your fingers
save for a rebuild and do the whole thing

or

sell the car and buy something else.

in most cases it's going to cost you more than you figure anyways.

 

To the OP....I think you should be seeing something around 100 psi. So 90 psi in your front rotor isn't anything to brag about and suggests it's due for re-hab too. Doing what you suggest makes absolutely no sense IMO, regardless of budget. Would you replace only one of two brake pads to save money?

 

i know 90 isnt that great at all, but anyways I honestly think its flooding out. My 7 is running VERY rich when warmed up and pretty rich at cold, I think the walbro on the stock fpr is to blame.

so i'm gonna try to get a wideband and does anyone know if where I can get a adjustable FPR? Ialso want to get rid of the pulse dampener as well.

one quick question... does the speedo have to work for the Cruise control to work?

 

Update: so I re comp tested my motor, front rotor 100-105 psi and rear around 80-85 psi.... so i'm thinking bent or cracked rear apex seal? I def think its fixable.

 

Pointless to rebuild half. You'll realize that the more you research what your doing. The rear rotor/housing runs hotter due to how the coolant passages run, that being said it's probably a simple and common fix so, I'd rebuild it now before your comp test numbers get worse and you might not have to replace as much when rebuilding.

 

More likely your injectors are leaking or some other cause for running rich. Regardless, it wouldn't be responsible for low compression and I'm not sure how a wideband will help unless you have a programmable ECU that you haven't yet mentioned. IIRC, Banzai Racing has a DIY for deleting the stock FPD, but I think you'll have to get an aftermarket fuel rail to install an adjustable FPR.
And the cruise is controlled via a CPU behind the left (driver's) side kick panel. Not sure if it takes it's inputs from the speedometer or from the ECU. Regardless, frequent causes of it not working are a bad clutch safety switch or blown fuse.

 

I would like to rebuild the whole thing but I got good compression on the front and bad BUT my rear rotor COULD be flooding causing lower comp numbers...

it wouldn't take much to pop off the rear iron and fix it.

I got about 400 for everything

as for the CC I pust the "main" button but nothing happens.

 

Actually flooding will RAISE your compression #'s, so your front and rear rotor could be lower than what your actually reading.

 

+1. ^

 

I honestly dont think its flooding, I had my pump turned off and completely deflooded it before I did it.

 

WTH?
So is it flooding... or not? Do you have low compression on the rear rotor...or not? Your symtoms seem to be a moving target and you don't seem to want to acknowledge, let alone accept the advice given in the thread. Good luck with the car. Unsubscribed.

 

flooding wouldn't raise any numbers, it would lower them.

but if the engine runs and you warm it up and shut it off, it isn't going to be flooded or have any skewed numbers when warm unless fuel is pooling up in the intake and you crank it enough to wash it out.

 

I dont know, but if its warmed up and I shut it off and try to start it again it might start up right after but if I wait 5 mins it wont.

I'm just saying when I tested it I turned off my pump and pulled the EGI fuse and deflooded it to make sure, then I tested, BUT I did forget to do WOT while testing. I tested from the LEADING plugs

AND yes I know flooding would lower comp numbers, thats why I think the REAR rotor is flooding for some reason because its so common.

 

differential compression failures are not common unless a rotor was blown, yours isn't but something is causing it to read low.

ghetto just costs more in the end.