super cheap rear rotor rebuild?
10-20-13, 08:39 PM
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
super cheap rear rotor rebuild?
so I comp tested my motor and I got about 90 or so overall psi in the front rotor and 60 overall in the rear , I was wondering If I could pull the rear iron and replace the apex seals? and of course the water seals too. the housing should still be in a good shape right? i'm sure im getting 2 30psi bounces and one 60.
any suggestions.... i'm super duper broke and cant afford a rebuild right now
any suggestions.... i'm super duper broke and cant afford a rebuild right now
10-21-13, 03:56 PM
#5
just because everyone is going to tell you not doesn't mean it isn't possible, it's just not recommended.
do it and cross your fingers
save for a rebuild and do the whole thing
or
sell the car and buy something else.
in most cases it's going to cost you more than you figure anyways.
do it and cross your fingers
save for a rebuild and do the whole thing
or
sell the car and buy something else.
in most cases it's going to cost you more than you figure anyways.
10-23-13, 09:54 AM
#6
To the OP....I think you should be seeing something around 100 psi. So 90 psi in your front rotor isn't anything to brag about and suggests it's due for re-hab too. Doing what you suggest makes absolutely no sense IMO, regardless of budget. Would you replace only one of two brake pads to save money?
Last edited by misterstyx69; 10-23-13 at 11:24 AM. Reason: slight fix.
10-23-13, 03:47 PM
#7
Full Member
Thread Starter
i know 90 isnt that great at all, but anyways I honestly think its flooding out. My 7 is running VERY rich when warmed up and pretty rich at cold, I think the walbro on the stock fpr is to blame.
so i'm gonna try to get a wideband and does anyone know if where I can get a adjustable FPR? Ialso want to get rid of the pulse dampener as well.
one quick question... does the speedo have to work for the Cruise control to work?
so i'm gonna try to get a wideband and does anyone know if where I can get a adjustable FPR? Ialso want to get rid of the pulse dampener as well.
one quick question... does the speedo have to work for the Cruise control to work?
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10-23-13, 05:35 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
Update: so I re comp tested my motor, front rotor 100-105 psi and rear around 80-85 psi.... so i'm thinking bent or cracked rear apex seal? I def think its fixable.
10-23-13, 05:41 PM
#9
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Pointless to rebuild half. You'll realize that the more you research what your doing. The rear rotor/housing runs hotter due to how the coolant passages run, that being said it's probably a simple and common fix so, I'd rebuild it now before your comp test numbers get worse and you might not have to replace as much when rebuilding.
Last edited by RotaryAttack; 10-23-13 at 05:43 PM.
10-23-13, 05:55 PM
#10
i know 90 isnt that great at all, but anyways I honestly think its flooding out. My 7 is running VERY rich when warmed up and pretty rich at cold, I think the walbro on the stock fpr is to blame.
so i'm gonna try to get a wideband and does anyone know if where I can get a adjustable FPR? Ialso want to get rid of the pulse dampener as well.
one quick question... does the speedo have to work for the Cruise control to work?
so i'm gonna try to get a wideband and does anyone know if where I can get a adjustable FPR? Ialso want to get rid of the pulse dampener as well.
one quick question... does the speedo have to work for the Cruise control to work?
And the cruise is controlled via a CPU behind the left (driver's) side kick panel. Not sure if it takes it's inputs from the speedometer or from the ECU. Regardless, frequent causes of it not working are a bad clutch safety switch or blown fuse.
10-23-13, 06:11 PM
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Pointless to rebuild half. You'll realize that the more you research what your doing. The rear rotor/housing runs hotter due to how the coolant passages run, that being said it's probably a simple and common fix so, I'd rebuild it now before your comp test numbers get worse and you might not have to replace as much when rebuilding.
it wouldn't take much to pop off the rear iron and fix it.
I got about 400 for everything
as for the CC I pust the "main" button but nothing happens.
10-23-13, 06:27 PM
#12
I would like to rebuild the whole thing but I got good compression on the front and bad BUT my rear rotor COULD be flooding causing lower comp numbers...
it wouldn't take much to pop off the rear iron and fix it.
I got about 400 for everything
as for the CC I pust the "main" button but nothing happens.
10-23-13, 06:41 PM
#15
WTH?
So is it flooding... or not? Do you have low compression on the rear rotor...or not? Your symtoms seem to be a moving target and you don't seem to want to acknowledge, let alone accept the advice given in the thread. Good luck with the car. Unsubscribed.
So is it flooding... or not? Do you have low compression on the rear rotor...or not? Your symtoms seem to be a moving target and you don't seem to want to acknowledge, let alone accept the advice given in the thread. Good luck with the car. Unsubscribed.
10-23-13, 06:51 PM
#16
flooding wouldn't raise any numbers, it would lower them.
but if the engine runs and you warm it up and shut it off, it isn't going to be flooded or have any skewed numbers when warm unless fuel is pooling up in the intake and you crank it enough to wash it out.
but if the engine runs and you warm it up and shut it off, it isn't going to be flooded or have any skewed numbers when warm unless fuel is pooling up in the intake and you crank it enough to wash it out.
10-23-13, 07:25 PM
#17
Full Member
Thread Starter
I'm just saying when I tested it I turned off my pump and pulled the EGI fuse and deflooded it to make sure, then I tested, BUT I did forget to do WOT while testing.
I tested from the LEADING plugsAND yes I know flooding would lower comp numbers, thats why I think the REAR rotor is flooding for some reason because its so common.
