stock omp with premix?
#1
DETROiT RiOT RACiNG
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stock omp with premix?
can I run premix with my omp still connected? and if so how much do I use per gallon? and is there any benifits to run it with the omp still hooked up? Thanks
#2
putting it down daily
Insurance. If you are sure the OMP is working, then you are wasting your money. The amount of premix you use will depend on the type of product you are using. Since my OPM is fully functional, I will leave that part of your question up to someone else.
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is that what you're currently running as engine oil, or is that what you plan on pre-mixing with? For pre-mix, you're best off with any good 2-stroke pre-mix oil, and again, if you're retaining the stock OMP, mix small amounts in with the gas, for added protection. I don't see any gains coming from pre-mixing and running the stock OMP other then peace of mind.
Now, since you will be putting some pre-mix in at every fill-up anyways, and the hassle factor isn't really the issue, why not disable the stock OMP and go straight pre-mix, with good quality pre-mix 2-stroke oil, and that way you can run a straight synthetic in the engine?
Now, since you will be putting some pre-mix in at every fill-up anyways, and the hassle factor isn't really the issue, why not disable the stock OMP and go straight pre-mix, with good quality pre-mix 2-stroke oil, and that way you can run a straight synthetic in the engine?
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#8
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Idemitsu, the company that produces oils specifically for rotary engines believes that premix should be done in ADDITION to the stock omp. The way I understand it is that the stock omp doesn't lubricate all of the apex seal or sideseals, thus why they say you should run premix. The reason that you should continue to use the stock OMP is that when premixing, you only get oil when you get fuel, so when you're decelerating you're getting a very small amount of oil, but if you leave the stock OMP you will still be getting oil during deceleration. I currently premix only, about 1-2oz. per gallon, however I plan to reinstall my OMP but modify it to pull the oil from a separate 2-stroke oil tank and then I'll still run premix in addition to that at 1/2 oz. per gallon. That way I can still run synthetic oil, and I won't be injecting 4 stroke oil, but I'll have the best possible lubrication for my seals.
#9
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Deffinately ditch the OMP. Most likely all your lines are cracked or very brittle. My OMP was leaking and the lines seemed ok but I didnt want to chance it or fork out any extra money to rebuild new lines or put new ones in from Mazda. It was really simple to disable. You can delete vacuum lines in the process and extra linkage on your Throttle body. I built my own block off plate out of 1/8 inch aluminum (easier to cut and was actually solid enough) and it turned out great. I am running 1 ounce of Valvoline TCW3 2 stroke per gallon of gas. It is easy to find and not too expensive either. Either way you decide to go good luck to you.
Last edited by roboskittle; 09-08-08 at 10:46 AM. Reason: more info
#10
anyone who says synthetics are no good for rotarys is full o ****.
i run castrol 20w50 in my rotarys that i don't premix in. and that oil goes through the OMP. so why not premix it?
i've used the same oil in every one of my rotarys and and currently running one with 280k miles. with perfect compression, so don't try to tell me premixing with a synthetic is bad.
i run castrol 20w50 in my rotarys that i don't premix in. and that oil goes through the OMP. so why not premix it?
i've used the same oil in every one of my rotarys and and currently running one with 280k miles. with perfect compression, so don't try to tell me premixing with a synthetic is bad.
#11
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1. calm down, this is a discussion board, If you aren't prepared to take criticism, especially when using something the way it wasn't intended, then don't post.
2. If crankcase oil is so perfect for combustion chamber lubrication, then why does 2 stroke oil even exist?
Answer: although your synthetic "crankcase oil" works, it is proven to produce higher amounts of carbon and other deposits when burned, because it was never intended to be burned. The sole purpose of 2 stroke oil is to be burned with the fuel so that the combustion chamber can be lubricated with very little deposits left behind. You can argue it all you want, but 4 cycle oil was never meant to be burned the way that it is with the OMP, 2 cycle oil is designed to do just that. I'm glad you've been able to get 280K out of your engine, just imagine how many miles you could get if you used the proper oil.
2. If crankcase oil is so perfect for combustion chamber lubrication, then why does 2 stroke oil even exist?
Answer: although your synthetic "crankcase oil" works, it is proven to produce higher amounts of carbon and other deposits when burned, because it was never intended to be burned. The sole purpose of 2 stroke oil is to be burned with the fuel so that the combustion chamber can be lubricated with very little deposits left behind. You can argue it all you want, but 4 cycle oil was never meant to be burned the way that it is with the OMP, 2 cycle oil is designed to do just that. I'm glad you've been able to get 280K out of your engine, just imagine how many miles you could get if you used the proper oil.
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wow you guys know your stuff....this is pretty informative. I remember a 12a guy telling me about premixing but I completely forgot about it till today. Good stuff.
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#16
i get more miles out of my synthetic oils than anyone i know does out of their non synthetics.
2 stroke oil exists so ignorant people will falsely believe that premixing with a 2 stroke oil is better that premixing with a good synthetic.
2 stroke oil exists so ignorant people will falsely believe that premixing with a 2 stroke oil is better that premixing with a good synthetic.
Last edited by kiddofspeed; 09-09-08 at 02:04 AM.
#17
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To the OP: 1/2 oz. per gallon is what is recommended if the OMP is still functioning. you CAN run more, but be careful as oil reduces the octane of the fuel and if you run too much you could start detonating.
#20
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any oil that is TCW-3 rated is fine to use, besides that its mostly preferance. personally I line the Mobil-1 2-T, and theres also Idemitsu which was designed for rotaries, but you'll have to order that online. Overall they're all pretty much the same, just make sure its TCW-3 rated (NOT TC-3)
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