Simpson

I have tried everything, the engine starts easily ,upon starting the engine revs upto3000 by itself for afew seconds then calms down and anything below 1500 it dies dead I have to press accelerater to send engine up,feather it as best I can and slowly bring it down but below 1500 it dies always .

I has ordered a CPU and will try that

it is using both rotors . cant keep it running low enough to time properly. traced all wires to the cpu. ground is good
starts easy never floods

waiting for cpu delivery and pinning all my hopes on that

cBigganz

What generation engine and ecu? Don't throw parts at it as you'll just waste money. Could be a throttle position sesor issue, idle control issue, throttle stop issue, vaccum leak or something else. those are probably good places to start.

Jarik

Some other things you could try:
- Don't suppose you have a wideband hooked up and can watch the AFRs? Might be worth borrowing one from a friend if possible to see whether it's a matter of running very rich or lean.
- Have you tried checking for ECU codes?
- Check for vacuum leaks to the intake manifold. Check all hoses, check all seals.
- Test +12V voltage while the car is running.
- Test MAP sensor per FSM.
- Might be a fuel pressure issue too. Check for leaks. Try to see if you can hook up a fuel pressure gauge (though on a stock system, that'd be a lot of work, so do that after you've exhausted everything else).

RotorA

iTrader: (2)

FC? Turbo 2? or Na?
FD?
Stock motor?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Unplugged AFM?

Big hole on the tube from the AFM to the engine?

Simpson

this is a 1988 non turbo.

I would like to test AFR, I think it is a problem because the engine never floods. so that is why I am getting a ecu because something is not telling the injectors to fire a low RPM.

I have concentrated on the TPS a lot and I have two, to try , both test out with the ohms and volts, and it runs the same unplugged . that doesnt prove anything but but I am thinking it something else.
Dont hear any vacuum leaks and have physically checked ,

the engine doesnt just run rough but dies totally below 1500 RPM

The AFM sort of checks out , when I tested the resistance according to the manual, the readings were right but the meter reading would disappear after a second. What do you think of that?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

You can't "visually " check for vacuum leaks, you need to spray around with carb/brake cleaner, or smoke test it, or both

These engines have a million places to get a vacuum leak, and it what deters 90% of the people that own them

Simpson

EUREKA

I found the massive air leak, it was the hose to the powerbrake, I was missing the pipe off the back of the intake manifold. Did have it on engine from the old engine (swap), so now it idles nice ,and eliminated a roaring noise that I always thought was the fan/clutch.

So thank you all for you suggestions and support