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Start, idle, fluctuate & stall/stop. Could pulsation damper fix cause this?

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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 03:44 PM
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Start, idle, fluctuate & stall/stop. Could pulsation damper fix cause this?

I had an engine fire but put it out in time so only a few vacuum hoses and some wires go melted.

TPS got melted around plunger housing and I removed that so it moved freely. Tested the resistance and that seemed fine.

Re-installed and car ran ok.

Noticed that the pulsation damper was leaking fluid from the place where that little screw in it use to be. I didn't want to take off the UIM so I JB Welded a small screw into the PD and essentially filled it up above and around that screw with JB Weld.

Waited for it to set overnight, re-attached the alternator BUT now I can't keep the car idling.

I can starts it up and idles about 1500 then it increases to just above 2000 and shuts off. I can't restart the car right away but if I wait about 5 to 10 minutes it does this all over again.

I don't know if the JB Weld hack on the PD made it dysfunction so now this happens OR my TPS just "went."


Could this be due to the PD "fix"?
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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From: Silicon Valley
Originally Posted by mszlazak
I had an engine fire but put it out in time so only a few vacuum hoses and some wires go melted.

TPS got melted around plunger housing and I removed that so it moved freely. Tested the resistance and that seemed fine.

Re-installed and car ran ok.

Noticed that the pulsation damper was leaking fluid from the place where that little screw in it use to be. I didn't want to take off the UIM so I JB Welded a small screw into the PD and essentially filled it up above and around that screw with JB Weld.

Waited for it to set overnight, re-attached the alternator BUT now I can't keep the car idling.

I can starts it up and idles about 1500 then it increases to just above 2000 and shuts off. I can't restart the car right away but if I wait about 5 to 10 minutes it does this all over again.

I don't know if the JB Weld hack on the PD made it dysfunction so now this happens OR my TPS just "went."


Could this be due to the PD "fix"?
I checked the TPS and noticed that I could not get both voltmeters from having the same reading of about zero. So I push the plunger a bit in and the readings started to move to about the 11 volts on one and near 0 on the other. The car is a 1988 RX7 non-turbo standard transmission so there is no positioning of the TPS housing by the use of "slider screws" like later models. It looks like TPS failed and has lost some of it's plunger position sensing ability. I guess the fire got to it after all.

However, I still wonder if my JB Weld fix on the PD would cause the "idle, increase then stop" issue I'm having in case it's more than a TPS problem.
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Old Mar 7, 2012 | 10:37 PM
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the reason your car caught on fire was the Pulsation Dampener.(most likely)..and you "fixed it???
NO..replace it before you Toast your *** again!
TPS is fried too by the way.
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Old Mar 8, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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From: Silicon Valley
Originally Posted by misterstyx69
the reason your car caught on fire was the Pulsation Dampener.(most likely)..and you "fixed it???
NO..replace it before you Toast your *** again!
TPS is fried too by the way.
New TPS is on the way.

Why are you saying the JB Weld fix doesn't work. I've seen a lot of posts on the web that say the opposite.

The only fix I could see myself doing is the Banjo bolt one since I plan to have this car just for a few more months. What size bolt do I use and where can I get it if I go this route?

Thanks.
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Old Mar 9, 2012 | 04:54 PM
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OK, I've put in the new TPS but it has not changed the situation.

I can start the car it surges then stalls/stops and I have to wait a few minutes before I can start it again.
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 07:22 AM
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Really look closely for a vacuum leak....somewhere. And replace or delete the FPD.
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