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stalling out when coming to stop

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Old 08-23-10, 05:17 PM
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stalling out when coming to stop

I just recently replaced my cas on my 88 fc and I also replaced my park plug wires every time I'm driving and start coming to a stop the cAr dies any ideas what might be wrong
Old 08-24-10, 08:32 AM
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Why did you replace the CAS? When you did, did you then set the timing as per the instructions in the FSM/Haynes?

If so, check the operation of the BAC valve. Adjust your TPS and check for vacuum leaks.
Old 08-28-10, 11:04 AM
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k i replaced the cas because one of my friends accidently caused the wires in the center of the cas to get eaten up by the rotating gear inside, but i finally found one , i put the new one in according to instructions out of my chilton's and some off this website, last night i went and timed my car and got it running a bit better but its still stalling out sometimes when coming to a stop, what is the BAC valve? any ways any ideas would be much appreciated thanks
Old 08-28-10, 12:40 PM
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The BAC helps to keep the idle above 750 rpm when load is applied to the engine such as brakes, headlights and A/C. One important thing to check would be the idle rpm when the car is fully warmed up as ideally it should be in the 750 to 800 rpm range on a non modded engine. If it is lower then it needs to be adjusted to the proper range.

The BAC valve is located on the driver's side of the engine towards the top of the throttle body and has three hoses connected to it. There are different ways to check the BAC. Running the car and turning on the A/C and the rpm should drop some before returning back to normal levels. If it drops but doesn't return then it is either stuck or not operating properly. If the car is running w/the A/C on and you remove the plug from the BAC it should come close to stalling out if not completely stalling out. If the plug is removed you can jumper wires to the BAC itself to hear if the valve clicks or not. A ground and a voltage wire would be used such as the ground and positive terminal from the battery could be used. When doing this the ground and positive jumper wire cannot be interchanged or mixed up at all. When the plug is removed from the BAC you need to take notice which terminal on the BAC is for positive and which is for ground purposes. The B/W wire to the BAC is the positive terminal while the other must be for ground. Also, do not put both wires to one terminal by accident either as this will damage the valve. When applying both wires in a proper manner to the BAC it will click thus verifying that the valve is not stuck and placing the two wires to the valve and removing them and doing it over a few times or so will help to unstick the valve. Also, when the car has been running for a while and the engine is turned off the valve should vibrate for a period of time before turning off.

There is also an item off the back of the throttle body and towards the passenger side called the dashpot which is used to prevent the car from stalling when the gas pedal is let go. It's an easy item to adjust and is in the FSM and other manuals.
Old 08-28-10, 08:43 PM
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also there is a light on the dash gauges that says "stop" right before the car dies i dont know what it meens??
Old 08-28-10, 10:06 PM
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::also there is a light on the dash gauges that says "stop" right before the car dies i dont know what it meens?? ::

ha

i'd do as it says.
Old 08-28-10, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by v-townboy
also there is a light on the dash gauges that says "stop" right before the car dies i dont know what it meens??
The "stop" light function is to tell you that one of the brake lights is out.
Old 08-29-10, 10:31 AM
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You will find timing set procedures and info about the BAC valve in both the Haynes and Factory Service Manuals.

The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.

Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.

These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.
Old 09-05-10, 03:04 PM
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if i can get access to a computer with a printer in the near future i will print the downloadable repair manuel, but untill then i will look for the haynes manuel i got the chiltons and it is really hard to follow but thanks for all the help and that i was wondering about that dashpot adjustment, how do i adjust it? any help is very much appreiated thanks
Old 09-06-10, 10:37 AM
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The Haynes manual is actually very easy to follow, so if you can get one over the Chilton, then go for it.
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