hey guys how's it going? quick background bought this 87 rx7 n/a super cheap owner told me before he parked it about 4 years ago it had a vacuum leak other than that it was fine, so since it sat for so long i went ahead put fresh oil coolant and fuel (with new fuel pump) in her, went to crank her up and it didnt want to, turns over nice but sounded weak and sounds like no compression is that normal for a rotory engine? or no i have 0 knowledge but wanting to learn about this motor and hopefully get full power out of it. here's the link my friend is talking about a clicking sound when the battery is connected and we can't figure it out

 

exactly where is that sound coming from?Have you isolated the location?
Your battery is weak as hell too,so get it fully charged.

 

sounds like its coming from the intake side and yeah i actually had my car jumping the battery at the time battery been in the car sitting for the amount of time she's been sitting prob need a new battery

 

oh the clicking sound is coming from behind the dash sorry, and i found out from previous owner that its the alarm on it thats not making it crank up so hes going to look for the remote for me if he can't find it im going to see about taking the alarm off, just sucks cuz when he installed it 7 years ago he spider'd that alarm throughout the wiring harness under the dash so who knows exactly what he spliced into w/out looking under dash..

 

Welcome to: "I can do that"..I think.
Someone sees a car magazine and suddenly they are Einstein,but when Einstein walks into the room they go" Who is that?, and who does he think he is?..Einstein?".
Good luck with the Wiring..
By the way our "resident expert" is named Satch,so if you get him on board in your dilemma you are in Good hands.
He is the "Rotary Einstein"..lol.He IS good.

 

sounds like a blown rotor or a rotor has stuck the apex seals. do a compression test and you will at least know which rotor is dead. you can try a pull start or MMO in the dead chamber to get it running and see if the seals unstick or if the engine is DOA.

the clicking noise should be coming from the main relay by the trailing coil near the firewall, it will normally click when turned on and off.

i can hear it trying to fire so you probably are fine on fuel and ignition(main relay is functioning in the on position), lacking component being compression. it's very difficult to start an engine on 1 rotor.

yes, i am also that good.

 

haha thanks XD when i first bought the car i was like cool i'm going to do lsx swap because that's what pretty much everyone does until i went on this forum and starting reading about other swaps/people build the rotory's so thats why i'm anxious to get this 1 running and see what power this 13b holds and see my options for it.

 

well by the sound of it it isn't going to be a great measure of power if you get it up and running unless it simply is carbon locked from sitting, which is quite possible.

you may be in for the LSx swap sooner than you thought.

 

well i went out and tried cranking it again after i disabled the alarm, now she's really wanting to fire up but no cigar... so i guess tomorrow i'll go get a compression test done and see what compression is..

 

while i'm waiting for a friend to come over with a compression tester and some mmo what can i gain out of a rotory? i've been watching alot of build threads but there mostly already came turbo'd or there the very nice fd models, what can i gain out of my n/a 13b? even if i have to do a re build id may wanna keep rotory and see full potential out of 1. thanks.

 

you could buy the items required to convert it into a turbo 2 , or if you have to rebuild it you can port it . and get some NA power out of it , and if you do bridge port . you get the nice brap brap , keep researching there is up and down sides to everything .

 

yeah ive been on this forum literally all day just reading and reading and more reading lol but like i said there mostly already turbo'd and getting more power but havent really seen 13b n/a builds and the fact my car is only a 4 lug id love to find a donor 5 lug or do a 8.8 rear end since i can get 1 complete for 100 bucks off a mustang. once i find out the situation of my current motor i guess we'll see what route i take lol

 

Thanks Rotary evolution my buddy was able to bring a truck tonight and pushed my car down the street in 1st gear after a few secs i was driving on my own, i'll post vids here soon so you guys can see and hear my very bad idle got a bad vacuum leak and smokes really bad.

 

my buddy recording he was excited lol

and this video down below was idling and u can see the smoke and hear it idle bad.

 

Now that i got her running a big woohoo!!! i need to bleed the coolant system get the air out of it, figure out the vacuum leak and the exhaust leak and hopefully she'll be good, let me know what u guys think if there is anymore problems

 

nice

 

not bad

 

glad you got it running but unfortunately even after getting it running it sounds like a rotor is still dead.

you have 2 rotors and 6 rotor faces, basically equal to a 6 cylinder engine. when you lose compression on a rotor you effectively lose 3 compression faces and only running on half the engine. the backfiring and smoke is from the unburnt fuel afterburning in the exhaust from the dead rotor(the ECU doesn't distinguish faulty compression so it pushes fuel through the dead rotor like it would if it was producing the same compression as the good one, this fuel isn't compressed and basically gets pushed into the exhaust in near raw form).

i would still recommend doing a compression test before spending too much time on fixing other things under the hood. you are most likely going to be pulling the engine out and rebuilding it or doing the engine swap.

best you can really manage keeping it n/a is about 200whp with some tweaking of the engine controls, light porting and open intake/exhaust. in stock form the engine produces about 135whp, with the dead rotor about 65whp. all for comparison sake.

there are some more extensive mods to push it over 200whp but you will find those examples are few and far between for a street driven car. about the highest "all motor" power from a 13B naturally aspirated is about 350whp from a tuned peripheral port engine with fair amount of work.

jay has one of the fastest all motor 13Bs on the forum and if you want to do some digging this thread would give you some ideas of what it takes:
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-drag-...-motor-937424/

it is however not a cheap path to follow even compared to building a turbo engine which in the long run is cheaper.

 

def a killswitch/alarm issue

 

Thank's man i'll check into that been busy throwing the turbo back on the civic kinda backed off the 7 good thing the 7 cranks up every time but dies shortly can i just go get a basic compression tester from autozone? or does these use a certain one?

 

You can use the top spark plug hole (easiest to get to and there is no difference between top of bottom values). You need a special rotary compression tester allowing you to measure the difference between the 3 rotors. The test should be done on a warm engine and you should get above 200 rpm from the starter motor. (you should remove a spark plug from the second rotor to reach the 200 rpm (no counter-pressure).

 

you can do it with a conventional compression tester but you do need to remove the schrader valve from the hose leading to the spark plugs. it can be tricky watching each rotor face peak but many people have done it this way for years.

 

Ur rx sounds like my first one.it acted the same way. Ended up being a blown apex seal due to a pluged cat