some kind of problem
#27
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To try to minimize the amount of fuel injected on startup you could remove pin 3B from the ECU. To depin 3B which is a Black/Blue wire you would disconnect the smallest plug to the ECU (far left plug) and with a tiny screw driver put the screw driver into the front of the plug and press down on the clip inside the plug while at the same time pulling on the wire from behind and the wire should slide out. Do this after you disconnect the negative battery terminal for precautionary purposes and after the pin removal plug the plug back into the ECU and reconnect the battery cable and try to start the car. Removing this pin should be done just to get the car started as removal of this pin should lead to difficult cold starts due to the lack of fuel injected. If this works then experiment with how hard cold starts are and you may have to repin (put ting it back where it came from) the disconnected pin which is rather easy.
#29
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so i thought the ECU was under the dash cause i saw a little box there but im guessing thats not it.. also tried looking up where it was and could not find it.. any help?
#31
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ok so i pulled the pin out.. and now its back firing not alot it does it when the fuel first hits the plugs and maybe every 30 seconds after that of trying to start it... so i guess removing the pin does help but its still not starting god this is annoying
#37
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alright so i tried to push start it well pulled it with my truck and nothing.. it didn't even wanna try.. some its something to do with either the fueland fire... i only have a few hours left in town then im leaving any help before then?
#38
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Outside of checking the fuel pressure with a gauge there is only so much you can do. Look at post #166 in the link provided and check for voltage on the Blue wire with key to start. Also, check for voltage on the same wire, Blue, with key to on and the fuel check connector jumpered (when this is done the fuel should flow throught the fuel lines and you should be able to hear it). The Blue wire powers the fuel pump. And actually the first thing to check in the pic provided is for voltage on the top center wire which will be Black/White with key to on. If this B/W wire does not have voltage w/key to on then the Blue wire won't have voltage when the fuel check connector is jumpered (and key to on). Use the solid Black wire in the bottom left of the plug as your ground wire for the volt meter when checking for voltage on these wires.
Try to verify spark again on the "leading coil." First disconnect the two wire white plug at that coil and w/key to on check for voltage on the Black/Yellow wire. If voltage is present then check for spark and make sure the coil/igniter is bolted firmly to the fender or it won't fire due to not being properly grounded.
Try to verify spark again on the "leading coil." First disconnect the two wire white plug at that coil and w/key to on check for voltage on the Black/Yellow wire. If voltage is present then check for spark and make sure the coil/igniter is bolted firmly to the fender or it won't fire due to not being properly grounded.
#45
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Last edited by skaraider; 11-01-10 at 11:13 AM.
#47
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Post #38 says what to measure. Post #39 has the link to the pic of the relay (look at post #166 in that link and it has a picture of the relay as clear as day).
The meter should be set to 12 volts DC. Red meter lead is for the voltage terminal that you are measuring, and for the Black meter lead use the solid Black wire (that's solid Black and not any other wire) as the ground for the meter.
Upper right Blue wire once again has voltage w/key to start( no jumper wire at the check connector) and should also have voltage w/key to on when the jumper wire is in place at the fuel check connector.
Top center Black/White wire has voltage w/key to on.
Top left wire be it Black/White or Black/Red should have voltage w/key to start.
Refer to pic provided of relay if needed. That's exactly how it should look.
The meter should be set to 12 volts DC. Red meter lead is for the voltage terminal that you are measuring, and for the Black meter lead use the solid Black wire (that's solid Black and not any other wire) as the ground for the meter.
Upper right Blue wire once again has voltage w/key to start( no jumper wire at the check connector) and should also have voltage w/key to on when the jumper wire is in place at the fuel check connector.
Top center Black/White wire has voltage w/key to on.
Top left wire be it Black/White or Black/Red should have voltage w/key to start.
Refer to pic provided of relay if needed. That's exactly how it should look.
#48
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This might sound too simple to be your problem, but are you 100% that reconnected the spark plug wires to the correct plugs?
Also that the fuel injector wires are plugged into the correct injectors (not sure how you verified fuel is why I ask).
Last thing, make sure that your MAF (AFM) is plugged in, and trickle charge your battery overnight, it sounded weak in the video.
Often times the simplest things elude us as they are often overlooked.
Also that the fuel injector wires are plugged into the correct injectors (not sure how you verified fuel is why I ask).
Last thing, make sure that your MAF (AFM) is plugged in, and trickle charge your battery overnight, it sounded weak in the video.
Often times the simplest things elude us as they are often overlooked.
#49
did you ever check compression?
Ive had my engine flood a lot of times and ive had to do the most aggressive deflooding . I mean plug out, cranking 15sec, 20x in a row. my battery died. then i did it all again. eventually, my car DID start.
the point is... sometimes your car can be flooded BAD.
Ive had my engine flood a lot of times and ive had to do the most aggressive deflooding . I mean plug out, cranking 15sec, 20x in a row. my battery died. then i did it all again. eventually, my car DID start.
the point is... sometimes your car can be flooded BAD.
#50
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well im back in virginia now.. um yeah i hooked up the sparkplug wires correctly i even asked which order it went in front to rear top to bottom, not sure about the injectors..i know the secondary is hooked up really can't see the primary to check.. um i did do the massive deflooding a few times.. um i did not do a compression check didn't have the gauge to do it.
Um ill have to relay everything to my dad now that he will be the one workin on the car since i am no longer in TN for atleast until feb.. so guess check up on here during the weekends is his time off. andill see if i can get a compression gauge and make sure everything else is wired up correctly
Um ill have to relay everything to my dad now that he will be the one workin on the car since i am no longer in TN for atleast until feb.. so guess check up on here during the weekends is his time off. andill see if i can get a compression gauge and make sure everything else is wired up correctly