should i worry
04-21-12, 01:24 PM
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should i worry
so i have been a mechanic for 8 years, have my degree in automotive and welding, so im not new to fixing cars but never work on a rotory motor, i have a 93 rx7 and havent had too big of issues yet, im thinking of doing some upgrades but im nervous, i hear bad things can happen and dont know if i should take the chance. ive read alot good things aswell, what do u guys think would be good upgrades
04-22-12, 02:20 PM
#3
Agree with above.....spend a few days going thru the stickys. If you know cars then you know for every mod there is a POTENTIAL or real consequence. That's even more true with the FD. Doesn't mean you can't mod....you just have to be a little more careful IMO.
Best advice I got way back was to leave the car alone for the first year and do maintenance. Keeping reading, make a detailed plan and use the time to learn about the car.
I'm in Bellevue but make it down to Lincoln ocaisionally for Culvers on Friday. Maybe we'll run into each other.
Best advice I got way back was to leave the car alone for the first year and do maintenance. Keeping reading, make a detailed plan and use the time to learn about the car.
I'm in Bellevue but make it down to Lincoln ocaisionally for Culvers on Friday. Maybe we'll run into each other.
04-23-12, 11:17 AM
#4
Way way back....when these cars were near new they used to talk about the "three mod rule". Usually a chosen amoung intake, downpipe or IC and cat-back... before you needed a standalone.
FWIW I think that"s still valid....assuming you maintain stock boost levels.
FWIW I think that"s still valid....assuming you maintain stock boost levels.
04-23-12, 09:06 PM
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I own a 93 touring VR with 53K original miles. My FD3 is not a daily, more a hobby that I put cash into when I get the bug.
The first thing I would do (did, really) is let the engine breath! Put a higher flow intercooler with cold air intakes, and open up the exhaust. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the effect this small change will do to the car. Same thing that Sgtblue stated.
With the rotary, heat is the enemy. Another of the old timer's primary suggestions is to upgrade the temperature gauge to something other than "good to go" and "your engine is toast" stock idiot light. If you have the pockets, put a new radiator (Koyo is what I went with) under the hood and replace all the old hoses.
These are safe and proven mods that will give you a feel for the potential of the rotary and some security of knowing exactly how hot the Wankle is running and giving it some extra cooling power. Oh yeah, make sure that the air is funneled into the engine compartment. Adding some sheet metal around the new radiator/intercooler is a really good idea to further aid in the engine cooling/breathing; and check the belly pan and make sure it is in good shape/not chopped by prior owners. I put an aftermarket electric fan under the engine (cut the belly pan to fit to the oil cooling lines and a/c condenser that had been relocated to allow installation of a front mount I/C) that keeps the temp at a cool 180 at highway speeds.
What you need to worry about is trying to juice the Wankle too much without compensatory mods. These things can crank out crazy power, but - as you noted - at a price.
The first thing I would do (did, really) is let the engine breath! Put a higher flow intercooler with cold air intakes, and open up the exhaust. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the effect this small change will do to the car. Same thing that Sgtblue stated.
With the rotary, heat is the enemy. Another of the old timer's primary suggestions is to upgrade the temperature gauge to something other than "good to go" and "your engine is toast" stock idiot light. If you have the pockets, put a new radiator (Koyo is what I went with) under the hood and replace all the old hoses.
These are safe and proven mods that will give you a feel for the potential of the rotary and some security of knowing exactly how hot the Wankle is running and giving it some extra cooling power. Oh yeah, make sure that the air is funneled into the engine compartment. Adding some sheet metal around the new radiator/intercooler is a really good idea to further aid in the engine cooling/breathing; and check the belly pan and make sure it is in good shape/not chopped by prior owners. I put an aftermarket electric fan under the engine (cut the belly pan to fit to the oil cooling lines and a/c condenser that had been relocated to allow installation of a front mount I/C) that keeps the temp at a cool 180 at highway speeds.
What you need to worry about is trying to juice the Wankle too much without compensatory mods. These things can crank out crazy power, but - as you noted - at a price.
04-23-12, 10:32 PM
#6
I'm sorry to be rude but I'd ignore the suggestion above.
First thing you need to do is make sure all proper maintenance is taken care of. There are few good threads "What should I do for $1000" and I'd suggest reading those.
Once you've done basic maintenance and reliability then you can consider other items such as an IC. Personally I'd replace all of the suspension bushings some of them will be shot even after 50k miles.
As experience members stated...read, read and READ SOME MORE!
First thing you need to do is make sure all proper maintenance is taken care of. There are few good threads "What should I do for $1000" and I'd suggest reading those.
Once you've done basic maintenance and reliability then you can consider other items such as an IC. Personally I'd replace all of the suspension bushings some of them will be shot even after 50k miles.
As experience members stated...read, read and READ SOME MORE!
04-24-12, 08:45 AM
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I own a 93 touring VR with 53K original miles. My FD3 is not a daily, more a hobby that I put cash into when I get the bug.
The first thing I would do (did, really) is let the engine breath! Put a higher flow intercooler with cold air intakes, and open up the exhaust. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the effect this small change will do to the car. Same thing that Sgtblue stated.
The first thing I would do (did, really) is let the engine breath! Put a higher flow intercooler with cold air intakes, and open up the exhaust. You'll be pleasantly surprised at the effect this small change will do to the car. Same thing that Sgtblue stated.
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04-24-12, 01:34 PM
#8
^For the record.....it's NOT the same thing that I stated.
To jmartinrob and the OP,
Significantly opening the intake tract with an intake and bigger IC will improve performance. But on the stock ECU you can get boost spike...especially in cool weather when the air is already denser. A boost controller (either manual or electronic) can solve that issue.
You can also "open the exhaust" to an extent. But you want to keep a little back-pressure. Adding things like a mid-pipe and having a totally open exhaust can lead to boost creep. A boost controller won't help with that. Usually just leaving the cat in (even a hi-flow cat) is enough. Or you must port the wastegate, which is a PITA since it's internal and requires pulling the turbos.
Like I said above, modifying just requires a little research and planning for those unintended consequences.
To jmartinrob and the OP,
Significantly opening the intake tract with an intake and bigger IC will improve performance. But on the stock ECU you can get boost spike...especially in cool weather when the air is already denser. A boost controller (either manual or electronic) can solve that issue.
You can also "open the exhaust" to an extent. But you want to keep a little back-pressure. Adding things like a mid-pipe and having a totally open exhaust can lead to boost creep. A boost controller won't help with that. Usually just leaving the cat in (even a hi-flow cat) is enough. Or you must port the wastegate, which is a PITA since it's internal and requires pulling the turbos.
Like I said above, modifying just requires a little research and planning for those unintended consequences.
04-24-12, 05:13 PM
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Wow, was my post that misleading? Sorry to heathrx7!
I've owned my RX-7 since '02. It had 33K on it then. So, I do have some experience. When I suggested opening up the exhaust, I didn't mean to put a straight pipe on it! More along the lines of the Bönez 3" Stainless Steel Performance Converter System, that keeps the machine legal, but allows it to breathe. I coupled this with an Apex FM IC, a turbo timer, a Profec B type II boost controller with the manual boost control mod (Rob Robinette's) for the secondary - to control the creep - and boost gauge as the first mods. I got worried about the temp - living in florida and with the modifications, so I replaced the stock radiator, hoses, AST and thermostat, and added a Defi temp gauge. All of which are fairly modest modifications that both give more horse power and protect the machine. Along the way, I've dumped a lot of coin into the suspension with the pillow ball replacements, Tokico illumina shocks with tein HS springs, toe links, etc.
Hats off to you guys with more time giving advice. My bad for a less than stellar reply, I guess - but no "new engine" mod for me...
I've owned my RX-7 since '02. It had 33K on it then. So, I do have some experience. When I suggested opening up the exhaust, I didn't mean to put a straight pipe on it! More along the lines of the Bönez 3" Stainless Steel Performance Converter System, that keeps the machine legal, but allows it to breathe. I coupled this with an Apex FM IC, a turbo timer, a Profec B type II boost controller with the manual boost control mod (Rob Robinette's) for the secondary - to control the creep - and boost gauge as the first mods. I got worried about the temp - living in florida and with the modifications, so I replaced the stock radiator, hoses, AST and thermostat, and added a Defi temp gauge. All of which are fairly modest modifications that both give more horse power and protect the machine. Along the way, I've dumped a lot of coin into the suspension with the pillow ball replacements, Tokico illumina shocks with tein HS springs, toe links, etc.
Hats off to you guys with more time giving advice. My bad for a less than stellar reply, I guess - but no "new engine" mod for me...
04-26-12, 04:05 AM
#10
Getting a little off-topic but......
The Bonez cat is a great unit. Love mine. But FWIW, a turbo timer has no real function for a streeted FD. Since our turbos are water-cooled it can actually be slightly counter-productive. Also, no boost controller, manual or electric, will protect again Boost Creep. Either keep some exhaust restriction (as you've done with the hi-flow cat) or port the waste-gate.
.... I didn't mean to put a straight pipe on it! More along the lines of the Bönez 3" Stainless Steel Performance Converter System, that keeps the machine legal, but allows it to breathe. I coupled this with an Apex FM IC, a turbo timer, a Profec B type II boost controller with the manual boost control mod (Rob Robinette's) for the secondary - to control the creep...
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