I was not able to find any grounding issues with the DMM set on continuity. The wires are not switched either, all 4 plugs are unique. Still unable to start the car or get into ACC/ON. I'm not sure about the connection to the main fuse, but it seems fine. The fuse itself is new and has current coming off it going to a large wire that goes into the loom.

I was also unable to replicate the issue I was having with the black/red wire. When I plug the main power clip in, the only time I'm getting any voltage from the return wire going down to the fusebox is when the ignition switch is in the off position

 

The wire coming off of the main fuse (talking the windshield side) drops downward about a foot to a connector joining the two sides together. This connection could be an issue.

And w/respect to the continuity test did you test the two wires from the front harness (this the harness which plugs into the ignition switch pigtail).

And you speak of the wire going down to the fuse box has voltage w/key to off. What color is this wire?

 

Okay I will check this tomorrow in the daytime and update at some point. I appreciate your continued assistance

 

I was unable to find any issues with the connector on the wire coming off the main fuse.

I'm not sure which two wires you are talking about in regards to the continuity test.

the wire with voltage when the key is off is the black/white one, on the same clip as the black power wire with constant voltage.

 

The plug w/the B/R and Blue wire.

The role of the switch is to relay constant power from the Black wire to the Black/White wire w/key to the on position. The only real two possible causes for your problem is either the switch is fubar or the B/W wire is drawing voltage from the fuse box because that's where it runs to. If that were the case then would it not make sense that the B/W wire would have voltage if the plug was not connected to the ignition switch. You need to see if that's the case to help isolate the problem.

 

The b/w wire does not have any voltage when it is unplugged from the new ignition switch, only when plugged in with key in the OFF position.

In regards to the continuity test, the plug with the b/r and blue wire did not cause my multimeter to chime out or give me a reading

 

You didn't have this specific problem w/the previous switch? (B/W wire having voltage w/no key)

 

With the previous switch, there was no voltage at the black/white wire at any time. This all happened very suddenly as well, I hadn't had any issues with the key or switch before the car died on me.

 

Before you posted your problem did you do anything to rectify your problem? And how much voltage is on the b/W wire that you read? Is it 12 volts or a fraction of a volt?

 

Before I posted anything, I replaced the battery and its terminals, replaced the main fuse and checked all the others, and made sure all the grounds were secure. The same day the car died, I had fixed a parasitic drain by unplugging the radio (source of the drain on the battery).

 

Voltage on the b/w wire was only around 5 volts, but the black wire had a constant 12v when unplugged from the clip

 

The switch you purchased sounds like it has had better days. Not saying it all lies within the switch but apparently voltage is bleeding through when it should not.

Now you have no voltage on the B/W wire or the B/R wire (in the two wire plug) w/key to on? And no voltage on the Blue wire w/key to ACC?

 

And when you state there were no issues w/the connector below the engine fuse box what does that mean. Did you look at it and that was all or did you unplug it and look it over?

And do you have an aftermarket alarm (cannot remember if this was asked).

And do you have a way of measuring amps (not a fraction of an amp but more like dozens of amps).

 

I unplugged it and inspected it but everything looked okay. I am going to go re-test all of those connections on the wires mentioned now just to make sure I am giving you the right information. Will update shortly

 

with the key set ON, the b/w & b/r wires show no voltage

with the key set to ACC, the blue wire is showing a 1.3v readout (black power wire also shows 1.3v readout)

with the key set to OFF, the blue wire is showing a .6v readout and the black wire is back up to 12v

There is also a blue/red (r/y on the switch side) wire in the clip with 4 wires showing a 12v readout at all times regardless of switch position


My Multimeter has a single setting for Amps with a 10A maximum

The car has the factory alarm system

 

You say back up to....... Before you stated it was the B/W wire had voltage w/no key (5 volts) and now it doesn't or you forgot to mention it or you're confusing the B/W w/the Black wire.

When looking at the pigtail from the switch what are the wire colors which connect to the Black and Black/White wires?

And either both switches are fubar or there is something fishy w/the voltage feed from the battery to the switch. You can have 12 volts but not the proper amperage. And you might want to recheck your battery connections be it new or not. So, you need to be able to check the amperage on the Black wire and 10 amp meter is not going to suffice, so you need to borrow one for a brief test.

 

Yeah I just forgot to mention it, the b/w wire still has around 5v with the key in the off position.

The switch wires that connect to the b & b/w wires are white/red and b/y

The switch I just bought is brand new so I don't think its the switch at this point. I will have to find/buy a better multimeter for the amp test

I also replaced all the terminals on my battery to no avail

 

I would focus on the amperage at this point. And when you mentioned the grounds did you check the fender ground for the battery.

 

Okay I'll look into finding a better multimeter. Fender ground for the battery was one of the first things I checked, was tight and secure and the wires are in good shape.