rx7 no ignition
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rx7 no ignition
Any help is appreciated, I am at a total standstill.
I was driving my car about a week ago when it suddenly shut down. Now, when I turn the key, nothing happens. I have PLENTY of juice in the battery and can operate my headlights, hazards, and interior lights. However, I cannot get the car to go into "accessory" or "on" mode.
I have checked all the fuses, both under the hood and under the dash... All are fine.
My battery and alternator as well as terminals and wires are brand new.
The starter and solenoid are both brand new. Ignition relays have been checked to no avail.
I bench tested the ignition lock cylinder as well and it seems to be in working order.
Please help me get this thing running before winter comes!
Thank you!
I was driving my car about a week ago when it suddenly shut down. Now, when I turn the key, nothing happens. I have PLENTY of juice in the battery and can operate my headlights, hazards, and interior lights. However, I cannot get the car to go into "accessory" or "on" mode.
I have checked all the fuses, both under the hood and under the dash... All are fine.
My battery and alternator as well as terminals and wires are brand new.
The starter and solenoid are both brand new. Ignition relays have been checked to no avail.
I bench tested the ignition lock cylinder as well and it seems to be in working order.
Please help me get this thing running before winter comes!
Thank you!
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Yes that is correct, I can move the key without issue, but the items powered do not work. Yes the car is an 88 S4
#4
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Have you checked the main fuse in the engine bay fuse box? The cable (windshield side and not battery side)coming off of it should have constant voltage to it. Or you could check the front harness which connects to the ignition switch. Locate the plug w/the Black/White wire and a solid Black wire. The Black wire comes from the main fuse thus it too should have constant voltage.
The main fuse is screwed into the fuse box, so just don't tug on it.
The main fuse is screwed into the fuse box, so just don't tug on it.
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Have you checked the main fuse in the engine bay fuse box? The cable (windshield side and not battery side)coming off of it should have constant voltage to it. Or you could check the front harness which connects to the ignition switch. Locate the plug w/the Black/White wire and a solid Black wire. The Black wire comes from the main fuse thus it too should have constant voltage.
The main fuse is screwed into the fuse box, so just don't tug on it.
The main fuse is screwed into the fuse box, so just don't tug on it.
The main fuse is brand new and still intact and the wires from the harness do have constant voltage, but still nothing when I turn the key.
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Okay, I wasn't able to get a reading off of the solid black wire, I will go double test it as well as the others you suggested. My multimeter may have been setup wrong so it will be wise to double check it anyway. Will update in a few
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I'm finding a reading of 12 volts from the solid black wire at all times. blue wire on the large black clip is also showing a low current. Turning the key to off/acc/on has no effect on any of this.
#12
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It looks like the ignition switch is problematic. If you jump voltage from B to B/W then the things which normally work w/key to on would work such as the wipers turn signals etc. Jumpering voltage from B to Blue would cause the ACC items to work such as the remote mirrors and radio.
Last edited by satch; 11-27-16 at 03:57 PM.
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It looks like the ignition switch is problematic. If you jump voltage from B to B/W then the things which normally work w/key to on would work such as the wipers turn signals etc. Jumpering voltage from B to Blue would cause the ACC items to work such as the remote mirrors and radio.
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Yes this was done with the plug disconnected from the ignition switch. I made contact through the connections in the clip.
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Yeah the B/W wire had power after the bridge, but I was still unable to operate anything that required acc/on mode to be activated
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The B/W wire runs down to the fuse box and powers the IG1 fuses such as the engine fuse, meter fuse, turn fuse, steering and window. So, take you pick and test for voltage at any of these fuses. You say (I think) that the turn signals don't work thus test that fuse w/the B/W wire being powered by the jumper wire from the Black wire. Either side of the fuse should have power (applies to the other IG1 fuses as well).
There really small holes in the top of the fuses. If you place the lead into one you can test for voltage. If the hole is too small you can pull the fuse and one side (of the fuse slot) must have voltage when the B/W wire has power.
There really small holes in the top of the fuses. If you place the lead into one you can test for voltage. If the hole is too small you can pull the fuse and one side (of the fuse slot) must have voltage when the B/W wire has power.
Last edited by satch; 11-27-16 at 10:14 PM.
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The B/W wire runs down to the fuse box and powers the IG1 fuses such as the engine fuse, meter fuse, turn fuse, steering and window. So, take you pick and test for voltage at any of these fuses. You say (I think) that the turn signals don't work thus test that fuse w/the B/W wire being powered by the jumper wire from the Black wire. Either side of the fuse should have power (applies to the other IG1 fuses as well).
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The B/W wire runs down to the fuse box and powers the IG1 fuses such as the engine fuse, meter fuse, turn fuse, steering and window. So, take you pick and test for voltage at any of these fuses. You say (I think) that the turn signals don't work thus test that fuse w/the B/W wire being powered by the jumper wire from the Black wire. Either side of the fuse should have power (applies to the other IG1 fuses as well).
There really small holes in the top of the fuses. If you place the lead into one you can test for voltage. If the hole is too small you can pull the fuse and one side (of the fuse slot) must have voltage when the B/W wire has power.
There really small holes in the top of the fuses. If you place the lead into one you can test for voltage. If the hole is too small you can pull the fuse and one side (of the fuse slot) must have voltage when the B/W wire has power.
#21
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I was able to successfully jump power from the B to the B/W wire and then the fuses gave a positive current readout, showing that power isn't successfully going through the ignition switch. I will be ordering a new one within the next few days. Again, I appreciate all of your help!
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Before you were having a problem getting a voltage read after the jumper was used. Was this solely because the jumper was not up to par or was there just an improper voltage reading? You might want to verify w/another voltage reading on the B/W wire w/o the use of the jumper (and of course the plug connected to the switch) to make sure the ignition switch is at fault.
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Satch, I replace my ignition switch to no avail. When I plug in the clip with power wire, I get a voltage reading out of both ends. However, after I plug in the clip that has 1 blue 1 black/red wire, I am unable to get any reading anywhere. Is this a grounding wire? Any ideas where I can go from here? I am so insanely frustrated lol
#25
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The Blue wire is for ACC and the B/R wire is for IG2,which is for some of the fuses that receives power w/key to on but not key to start. The car should start w/o the plug you speak of. And yes it is possible that one of the two wires are grounding out the switch. W/the plug unplugged you could use a multi meter set to continuity and place one meter lead to one of the 2 wires and the other lead to a ground and if it rings out then the wire is grounded out which it should not. Another possibility is a poor connection from the main fuse to the ignition switch.
And make sure you did not switch the plugs w/2 wires (2 of them) when connecting the switch to the front harness.
And make sure you did not switch the plugs w/2 wires (2 of them) when connecting the switch to the front harness.
Last edited by satch; 12-08-16 at 03:45 PM.