Rx7 engine pull, and tranny pull,
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Jefferson , Ga
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the engine use wrenches and sockets. For the tranny use latex gloves. And never your mouth. Jk. There are hundreds of threads or just check out rotaryressurection.com in the tips section. Gl
#3
Brap Brap Brap
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 981
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its easier to unplug the wiring harness from the ecu and pulling the harness through the fire wall then to take all the manifolds off the engine to unplug each plug and vac line.
#4
This is my social media.
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 2,744
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're not familiar with removing engines from cars... Label each hose, plug, and line that you remove. Write down the label on a piece of paper. When you reinstall the engine, you can reattach each wire, plug, hose, etc. and mark it off; ensuring that you've not forgotten any connections. The BEST thing to have is a factory service manual. You're essentially wanting to remove anything that is holding the engine in the engine bay.
I prefer to remove the transmission with the engine. If you choose to do so, I recommend removing the radiator and fan shroud from the engine bay (or the electric fan if you have a series five) and the shifter from the transmission. Unbolt the oil cooler from where it mounts. You can leave the oil cooler lines attached to the engine and oil cooler. Tie the oil cooler and lines to the front of the engine while pulling it. (If you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, remove the oil cooler and lines.) Unbolt the power steering/AC bracket from the engine. You can pull it up toward the strut tower, away from the engine. Tie it back with some rope or something, to keep it out of the way. Unbolt the exhaust, transmission mounts, and engine mounts. My car sat too low, so I had to jack the front end up enough to get the engine hoist (cherry picker) under the front subframe. Hook up the engine hoist to the proper hoisting/pulling points. Hoist the engine slowly. By these steps, you've got it on the run. It would be best to have a helper... One person to hoist the engine high enough and pull the engine hoist back, and the other person to steady the engine and transmission by hand.
You always have the option to remove the engine without the transmission. Things can get a bit messy when removing the transmission with the engine. Be sure to properly plug all holes, ports, openings or whatever may contain any sort of liquid. If you're feeling ambitious, you can drain all liquids.
I'm sure I may be forgetting some things, but you get the picture. I did this with a friend of mine about six years ago. We had no experience with cars at all. We managed to get the engine and transmission out just fine, though.
I live about 30 minutes north of Auburn.
I prefer to remove the transmission with the engine. If you choose to do so, I recommend removing the radiator and fan shroud from the engine bay (or the electric fan if you have a series five) and the shifter from the transmission. Unbolt the oil cooler from where it mounts. You can leave the oil cooler lines attached to the engine and oil cooler. Tie the oil cooler and lines to the front of the engine while pulling it. (If you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, remove the oil cooler and lines.) Unbolt the power steering/AC bracket from the engine. You can pull it up toward the strut tower, away from the engine. Tie it back with some rope or something, to keep it out of the way. Unbolt the exhaust, transmission mounts, and engine mounts. My car sat too low, so I had to jack the front end up enough to get the engine hoist (cherry picker) under the front subframe. Hook up the engine hoist to the proper hoisting/pulling points. Hoist the engine slowly. By these steps, you've got it on the run. It would be best to have a helper... One person to hoist the engine high enough and pull the engine hoist back, and the other person to steady the engine and transmission by hand.
You always have the option to remove the engine without the transmission. Things can get a bit messy when removing the transmission with the engine. Be sure to properly plug all holes, ports, openings or whatever may contain any sort of liquid. If you're feeling ambitious, you can drain all liquids.
I'm sure I may be forgetting some things, but you get the picture. I did this with a friend of mine about six years ago. We had no experience with cars at all. We managed to get the engine and transmission out just fine, though.
I live about 30 minutes north of Auburn.
#6
This is my social media.
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: WA
Posts: 2,744
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I did not specify this above... But I am only familiar with removing the 13B and 13BT from the S4 and S5 FC's.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
#7
Full Member
iTrader: (6)
I did not specify this above... But I am only familiar with removing the 13B and 13BT from the S4 and S5 FC's.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
FREE FSM's -> http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual#secondgen
If you're looking to buy one... Try eBay or Amazon.
Trending Topics
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
just took one out and put one in. i actually had to get the harness off the motor so i had to take off the intake and undo the metal lines that sit under it. basically i just pulled out the bolts that held it down, picked up on em a little, and worked the wires back out from under it. didn't completely remove the metal lines. intake yes tho. i took the fan and rad out and moved both ways with trans attached. unbolting is relatively simple. undo the motor mounts from the bottom. that way it won't be inclined to sag b4 you're ready to hook up your hoist. i had mine on a lift. you will drop trans fluid on the floor when you pull the motor out! drain it or take it off before you pull the motor. it's not hard to unbolt. it's just heavy. you're gonna want an extra hand or a stand or something. i managed to get mine back together relatively easy. you need a 10, 12, 14, 17, and 19 mm. and a 1 inch. the oil line on the bottom left of the motor was a weird size between 7/8 and 1 or 1&1/16. i found a big wore out 7/8" socket to fit that one. oh, that's not required, i was swapping. it's not that big a job dude. you can get it. took me one day to get it out, one day to get it in, and a day to go through and replace minor things and trouble shoot some stuff, but it's running great. pay attention to lines. i took pictures everywhere they hooked up and how. get where they come from. if you can't get to something, try to move something out of the way first. good luck!!!
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Auburn wa
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It all went smooth took me about 5 hours with a buddy, removed the wires from the ecu and pulled them through the firewall. On the oil cooler lines I removed the clips and the lines pulled right off. Now I am trying to get the tranny of the engine , it's unbolted and I can spin it independently from the engine but it won't come apart
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: swansea uk
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, saw this thread n want to ask a question. A buddy of mine is having trouble splitting the 2, unfortunately the clip inside is jammed solid, does anybody have any ideas on how to free it up so we can split them. Weve pryed at it with screwdrivers, undone the bell housing to see if it would give a bit of movement but nothing and we dont wanna pry too hard incase we damage it totally. Cheers.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Auburn wa
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spendyrx,
I ended up taking the inspection cover on the top of the tranny off, and removing the pressure plate bolts one at a time, and spinning the engine getting each one. Than I was able to get the tranny off
I ended up taking the inspection cover on the top of the tranny off, and removing the pressure plate bolts one at a time, and spinning the engine getting each one. Than I was able to get the tranny off
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well first unbolt your driveshaft from underneath the car. Then next are the tranny mounts (just 4 bolts to unscrew). Uhm The motor mounts should be no problem. If you dont already have a cherry picker go to freight and harbor. They're usually about $170. You will need about 3+ people for safety and guidance of the engine+tranny.
#18
lone wolf
has anyone pulled the motor and box out by them self?
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
#20
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
has anyone pulled the motor and box out by them self?
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
Dont really have any friends...
brothers a C*%&
I've removed all the wiring harness, hose's
dropped the oil's from box and engine..
im pretty much noob, I've just been researching on what things i should've done
now im up to taking it out.
im abit scared tbh.
It was a piece of cake...Mmm..Cake..nom,nom,nom..(sorry hungry!)
Ya,If the oil is out of the Transmission then it makes it "cleaner" to take out and doesn't leave a Trail of gear oil!
If you unbolt the trans under the car,juts make sure it is supported by a jack of some sort so you can move it out of the way when you get to taking the engine/Trans out of the engine bay.
It may take a wiggle or 2 but they usually just slide right out.
Suggestion would be to either have a load leveler on the engine hoist or when you get it half way up,rest it on the subframe so you can re-arrange the chain as the tail stock needs to clear the firewall.
PS: my brothers a PR*** so he would get along with your brother just fine..lol!
#21
william
iTrader: (1)
You could probably do it yourself but I mean another person is definitely needed, both for safety and for help. Personally I wouldn't try it alone in fear or having noone to help me if something goes wrong. I pulled my trans out with my engine all at once in my 83 which wasn't too bad. You should be good man, just get a second set of hands, take you're time, and make sure not to bang you're engine around trying to wiggle it out. Cheers.
#22
Brap Brap Brap
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 981
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've pulled 2 engines alone with a come along chained around rafters in my garage. Luckily I'm good at spackling though cause I left a hole in the roof ha. It's easy to do if you are positive everything is freed from the engine. Shouldn't take 2 people, unless you want someone there for back up.