Rx-7 FD Problem!
11-29-13, 09:40 AM
#1
Meister
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Rx-7 FD Problem!
Hello guys and girls!
I got a problem with my car.
The problem is that everytime i give full throtttle the car start to fire like a gun and the engine feels like its gonna stall. I can still drive the car but there is a limit to how far i can push the throttle and i have to be really slow on it. I have no idea what the problem is and its a bit hard for me to explain since my english is not that good but i hope someone can help me.
I could post a video when i rev upp the car if that would help since i cant even give full throttle in Neutral.
I got a problem with my car.
The problem is that everytime i give full throtttle the car start to fire like a gun and the engine feels like its gonna stall. I can still drive the car but there is a limit to how far i can push the throttle and i have to be really slow on it. I have no idea what the problem is and its a bit hard for me to explain since my english is not that good but i hope someone can help me.
I could post a video when i rev upp the car if that would help since i cant even give full throttle in Neutral.
11-29-13, 10:45 PM
#2
11-30-13, 04:12 AM
#3
Meister
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well the previous owner had the engine rebuild and street ported by a well known company in sweden. Thats pretty much everything that has been done to the engine
11-30-13, 04:21 AM
#4
What mods do you have? Bolts ons, ECU, etc etc...
Start with plugs, check and see their condition. Best to replace after buying a used car anyways.
Make sure plug wires aren't crossed.
Pull the UIM off and check all the vacuum hoses.
Fuel filter may be another reason as well as stuck injectors.
Start with plugs, check and see their condition. Best to replace after buying a used car anyways.
Make sure plug wires aren't crossed.
Pull the UIM off and check all the vacuum hoses.
Fuel filter may be another reason as well as stuck injectors.
11-30-13, 04:35 AM
#5
Meister
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What mods do you have? Bolts ons, ECU, etc etc...
Start with plugs, check and see their condition. Best to replace after buying a used car anyways.
Make sure plug wires aren't crossed.
Pull the UIM off and check all the vacuum hoses.
Fuel filter may be another reason as well as stuck injectors.
Start with plugs, check and see their condition. Best to replace after buying a used car anyways.
Make sure plug wires aren't crossed.
Pull the UIM off and check all the vacuum hoses.
Fuel filter may be another reason as well as stuck injectors.
Btw what do you mean with "Make sure plug wires aren't crossed" ?
I ordered spark plugs and spark plug wires yesterday and iwll get them next week,
Mazda shop said that it wasnt original plugs in the car and that could be one of the problems
11-30-13, 04:42 AM
#6
Honestly not sure I'd ever take a rotary to a Mazda dealership, they probably don't have a clue what they're doing with it or how to diagnose it.
Just make sure the correct plugs are on the correct coils. It is very important.
Does the car idle okay?
Just make sure the correct plugs are on the correct coils. It is very important.
Does the car idle okay?
11-30-13, 04:46 AM
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The car idles okay but the car shakes sometimes
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11-30-13, 06:08 AM
#9
At what rpm and boost does this happen? I had a issue long ago with something similar, mine turned out to be the hose on my map sensor( located on the fire wall with one vacuum line on it) had snap off, in which I believe puts the car in limp mode and wouldn't boost past 3psi..forgive me if anyone finds this to be false ,this is just something that worked for me
11-30-13, 07:27 AM
#11
Exactly what are trying to point out? That notch in the trigger wheel is normal. There should be a tab extending out from the wheel too.
If you're on the stock ECU, you may just be in Limp Mode. You may want to check for any codes stored.
I really doubt it has anything to do with fuel, so I wouldn't mess with the UIM or injectors. Plugs and wires, if they're old or overdue are always a good idea, but also not likely causing your issues, especially if it's starting normally. When you change plugs I recommend to new owners to change one at a time and be sure to use a bit of anti-seize on the plug threads.
And your English is just fine.
If you're on the stock ECU, you may just be in Limp Mode. You may want to check for any codes stored.
I really doubt it has anything to do with fuel, so I wouldn't mess with the UIM or injectors. Plugs and wires, if they're old or overdue are always a good idea, but also not likely causing your issues, especially if it's starting normally. When you change plugs I recommend to new owners to change one at a time and be sure to use a bit of anti-seize on the plug threads.
And your English is just fine.
11-30-13, 07:57 AM
#12
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Exactly what are trying to point out? That notch in the trigger wheel is normal. There should be a tab extending out from the wheel too.
If you're on the stock ECU, you may just be in Limp Mode. You may want to check for any codes stored.
I really doubt it has anything to do with fuel, so I wouldn't mess with the UIM or injectors. Plugs and wires, if they're old or overdue are always a good idea, but also not likely causing your issues, especially if it's starting normally. When you change plugs I recommend to new owners to change one at a time and be sure to use a bit of anti-seize on the plug threads.
And your English is just fine.
If you're on the stock ECU, you may just be in Limp Mode. You may want to check for any codes stored.
I really doubt it has anything to do with fuel, so I wouldn't mess with the UIM or injectors. Plugs and wires, if they're old or overdue are always a good idea, but also not likely causing your issues, especially if it's starting normally. When you change plugs I recommend to new owners to change one at a time and be sure to use a bit of anti-seize on the plug threads.
And your English is just fine.
11-30-13, 08:26 AM
#13
Pretty certain the notch is normal, though there is a shiny area behind the wheel and a little out of focus that has me curious. And again, there should be a tab extending from the wheel. Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual from the FAQ sticky in the 3rd Generation Section and read through the appropriate section for the Crank Angle Sensors (CAS) and trigger wheel.
This link references the North American model cars. http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
Not sure about the Euro-market models, but it won't hurt to see if you have any codes stored. Limp Mode is a condition the stock ECU goes in to when it senses a failure in a system that MAZDA considered critical. In Limp Mode timing isn't advanced and fuel is cut if vacuum is not sensed at the manifold. The car will start and idle normally...and if you press the accelerator very slowly, it will also rev normally as long as some vacuum is maintained. If not, it will stumble as you described. Not all codes cause limp mode.
This link references the North American model cars. http://www.fd3s.net/engine_codes.html
Not sure about the Euro-market models, but it won't hurt to see if you have any codes stored. Limp Mode is a condition the stock ECU goes in to when it senses a failure in a system that MAZDA considered critical. In Limp Mode timing isn't advanced and fuel is cut if vacuum is not sensed at the manifold. The car will start and idle normally...and if you press the accelerator very slowly, it will also rev normally as long as some vacuum is maintained. If not, it will stumble as you described. Not all codes cause limp mode.
11-30-13, 08:36 AM
#14
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Pretty certain the notch is normal, though there is a shiny area behind the wheel and a little out of focus that has me curious. And again, there should be a tab extending from the wheel. Download a copy of the Factory Service Manual from the FAQ sticky in the 3rd Generation Section and read through the appropriate section for the Crank Angle Sensors (CAS) and trigger wheel.
This link references the North American model cars. Check Engine Light Codes
Not sure about the Euro-market models, but it won't hurt to see if you have any codes stored. Limp Mode is a condition the stock ECU goes in to when it senses a failure in a system that MAZDA considered critical. In Limp Mode timing isn't advanced and fuel is cut if vacuum is not sensed at the manifold. The car will start and idle normally...and if you press the accelerator very slowly, it will also rev normally as long as some vacuum is maintained. If not, it will stumble as you described. Not all codes cause limp mode.
This link references the North American model cars. Check Engine Light Codes
Not sure about the Euro-market models, but it won't hurt to see if you have any codes stored. Limp Mode is a condition the stock ECU goes in to when it senses a failure in a system that MAZDA considered critical. In Limp Mode timing isn't advanced and fuel is cut if vacuum is not sensed at the manifold. The car will start and idle normally...and if you press the accelerator very slowly, it will also rev normally as long as some vacuum is maintained. If not, it will stumble as you described. Not all codes cause limp mode.
Last edited by sypath; 11-30-13 at 08:39 AM.
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