sideways-FC

I just put a large street ported s4 na moter in my 88 rx7. I got rid of all the emissions stuff completly such as egr,acv,thermowax,bac,vacume solinoids and vacum rack and so on.I had to pull it behind my friends truck and pop the clutch to get it started for the first time and it wouldnt idle I had to keep it running with the gas pedle even after I let it worm up and I had the idle screw all the way up. I figured it mite be the timing because I was pritty confident I didnt have a vacume leak so I adjusted the timing a little and it flooded so I tryed clamping the fuel line insted of pulling the egi fuse I dont know why I chose to do that because when I went to start it it almost started then it back fired out the exhaust and then I stoped looked in the engine bay and my fuel line was leaking so I had to take off the upper intake to replace that then when I put it all back together and started it back up it was really loud and back fireing and wouldnt run under 2000 soI figured I had a vacume leak at the upper intake so I took it back off put a new upper intake gaskit on with some brushabul gaskit on it and it will run as low as 1000 now but it is still way lowder then it should be and its back fireing like some one is shooting a 22 behined the car and its smokeing like I just fired it up after it was flooded or something. also it had like an 8th of a tank of gas in it that was like a year old so I put like 4 gallons of new gas in it but every time I pull a fuel line off the engine the gas that comes out is orange and smells bad and I ran it after I put the new gas in I plan on draining the gas and puting all new gas in it soon I dont know if thats the problem though. and it wount fire up agein after I shut it off it floods and I set it back to the timing I had it at when it was running good just not idleing. so basicly its realy loud its back fireing and I dont know why sorry to make you guys read so much but if any one has any ideas about why my car would be doing this it would be very helpful cos I have no idea and I realy would like to get this thing running and broken in for this big drift event coming up in 3 weeks. please im out of ideas!

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Your mass of text was very difficult to understand. If you expect a decent answer to your questions, please put in the effor to show a little respect to those providing the answer. This means simple things like spelling, sentence stucture, punctuation and paragraphing.

Put the following back on:

-BAC
-thermowax and cold start cam
-hot start assist solenoid

Search the 2nd gen forum for emissions removal to find out where your vacuum lines are supposed to go now that you've remove the emissions rack.

What is the history of this car? Was it sitting for a long time? Because below (in the text I've removed) you mentioned the fuel was at least a year old.

So, you need to drain the tank, flush the system, replace the fuel pickup filter and main filter. You also need to have the injectors serviced by an injection shop to clean them out. Its likely they are sticking and leaking.

Once that is done, and you have your BAC and other related stuff reinstalled, you need to follow the FSM procedure to initially set the idle speed screw as well as the idle mixture screw on the passenger shock tower. All vacuum leaks will need to be eliminated before this can happen.

Follow the procedure in the FSM to install the crank angle sensor. Turn the engine to line up the yellow mark with the pointer, line up the marks on the CAS gear, and insert while holding the CAS rotor steady with your fingers.

Make sure that your spark plug wires are on correctly.

Once you get it running, you'll need to keep it running to bed in the seals. Idle it high for around 20 minutes.

Then depending on how the engine was built, you may need to set the idle higher (1200 RPM or so) for the first thousand or so miles. Then readjust it down to the proper 750 RPM.

sideways-FC

sorry for all the text ill try to keep it brief. I tryed an engine swap on this car last year but I but never got it running completly, so I bought my black rx7 thats why my car was siting for a year. I let my injecters soak in some sea foam be for I put them back on the car. I dont want to put my bac, thermo wax, and fast idle, back on im ok with it not idleing when its cooled i just think all that stuff cluters up the upper intake to much.and is there a drain on the gas tank somewhere.

Im Tyro

There is a drain plug on the passenger side towards the front of the tank

sideways-FC

But the main thing I want to know is what would make my car run so loud and back fire like it does.if I could get that fixed I will be happy.cos it was running normal untile I took the upper intake off and put it back on and I dont know what I could if done to make it do that.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need to have the injectors professionally serviced. Soaking them in a mild solvent does nothing. An injection shop will flow test each one, clean them out thoroughly and replace the filter screens and rubber. They'll let you know which one needs to be replaced.

The BAC is used by the ECU to control the idle speed. Without it, you'll need to turn the idle up a bit past 1000 RPM in order for it to be steady. Just put the BAC back on so that the car will idle properly. There is no advantage at all to removing it.

The thermowax is hidden at the back of the throttle body. No one will see it. Put it back on so that the car will actually idle when started. There is no advantage at all to removing it.

Having these two items back on the car will make this process MUCH easier and also make the car drivable and not broken.

Look on the bottom of the tank. You'll see the drain. But beyond draining the tank, you'll need to pull the fuel pump assembly and replace/clean the pump as well as clean out the tank.

As for the back firing, did you verify the position of the CAS as I suggested? Also, check the ignition wires?

The TPS will need to be adjusted. Make sure there are no large vacuum leaks.

Honestly, you've probably created quite a cluster **** by pulling bits of the EFI system off of the engine. Pay close attention to the proper emissions removal diagrams found via searching as to what to do with the various vacuum lines.

sideways-FC

I have the cas set at the second timing mark I havent checked it with a timing light yet, and I cant think of any where I would have a vacume leak I took my time making sure everything was sealed up good. but I get what ur saying about the bac and thermo wax and stuff I know theres no advantege to removing it I just dont want it on my car, I am going to set the idle around 1000 and Im not to concerned about idle quality right now as long as it stays running. I think im going to replace the gas and clean the fuel pump then let it run up to operating tempature and see what it does see if it wants to idle sins I fixed that gaskit then I will take it from there.How much does it cost to have my injecters cleaned,and could that be a big reason its not running right.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Most injection shops do the job for $20-$30 per injector. That, and the contaminated fuel system, is the major reason why the car isn't running. Assuming no other problems, of course.

sideways-FC

well ill take a shot at it this weekend and let you know how it goes

sideways-FC

Also I was told with my large street port and VERY LARGE exhust port I will need to advance my timing like 15 degrees or so is that true.

sideways-FC

Also it has like no throtle response like i will give it some gas and it will rev up slow,and its building up alot of presure in the fuel lines I just loosend my clamp on my fuel line going from the primary to secondary fuel rail after I tryed starting the car and fuel just started squrting out the top of the fuel line.so its back firing, not idling, has crappy throtle response, and floods.and all this just started all of the suden. so what do you guys think?

sideways-FC

Got the timing light on it today the timing was way off I set it right, now its running alot better and its idleing but it still has a slite problem with throtle response if I rev it up to fast it will sputer Im thinking my tps might be bad or out of adjustment. what else could it be?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You can't advance timing without a standalone.

Fuel rail pressure is supposed to be high.

Definitely worth checking the TPS. But most of the sputter will come from the throttle body mod.

sideways-FC

when you say throtle body mod do you mean that vacume actuater that operates that throttle plate that I got rid of right. it runs realy rough when its cold but when it wurms up it idles and runs prity good and I drove it up and down the road to day and when I got back to my drive way it stoped doing its sputering when I rev it up I gess it just needs to be all the way wurmed up or ran a little bit but it probably wont run great untile I finish the brake in anyway right?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Forgot that you had an NA engine. Removal of the tertiary throttle plates serves no purpose since they are held open by a spring after the engine warms up anyway. The vacuum actuator holds them closed when the engine is cold to keep the driver from going to wide open throttle. When you removed them, did you plug the holes now created in the throttle body?

It will run a bit rough until it is broken in, but this has been complicated by how much the throttle body and cold start systems have been, well, ruined. I really, really, really recommend that you put back on the cold start cam and associated hardware as well as the BAC valve.

In the meantime, set the TPS properly and then use the idle screw on the top of the throttle body to raise the idle to about 1200 RPM. After you have about 1000 miles on the engine, you can drop the idle down to a more reasonable 900-1000 RPM. However if you put the BAC back on you can set to the factory idle of 750 RPM and it will remain steady regardless of temperature and load on the engine.

How big is this "large" street port? The NA engines already have massive port area and adding more typically does more harm down low and midrange than it helps above. My experience shows that "big street port" 6 port NA cars are slower than stock/mild port cars with basic upgrades. That said, your hesitation could simply be a factor of the ports. The stock ECU just doesn't open the injectors enough during throttle transitions for engines with huge ports.

sideways-FC

yes I closed the holes made by the throtle plate removale. I have it idling at 1500 right now I want to drive it for A wile before I tuch anything.Its a prity big street port with a prity big exhaust port to match it and Im running a turbo pressure sencer cos I was told that it will help compinsate for the larger ports and it stoped hesitating/sputering its actully not running bad right now I think wons the brake in is done I should be able to get it running the way I want it,and do you have a bunch of videos on youtube?

sideways-FC

Here is my set up If it will help,I just love how this thing looks and sounds when its running

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You need to swap back to the NA pressure sensor. That will likely go a long way to fixing your problem.

Looking at your engine bay, it appears the position of the CAS is wrong as well. Make sure it is not stabbed one tooth off. It should be in the middle, not fully advanced like that.

sideways-FC

Its not all the way advanced I set it with a timing light its fireing right on the seconed timing mark,and I did switch back to my na pressure sencer it seems like it helped a little.you dont think that street port is to crazy do you I do plain on going with a stand alone ecu in the spring time or when ever I get the money wich will probably be a while.But untile then i would like to be able to drive and drift this thing on the stock ecu.

sideways-FC

ok almost there its running prity good now, ive even been driveing it around a little bit. the only thing thats worieing me now is that theres a faint clicking noise coming from the right side of the engine bay down around the header.I can bearly hear it when im on driver side of the engine bay but I can hear it prity clealy when im on the passinger side its just like a click click click click click its coming from some were around the o2 senser I dont know what it is though

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Exhaust leak maybe. Or a loose heat shield.

Oh, you mentioned Pacesetter headers. Since they are a huge POS with thin walls, that may be the ticking.

sideways-FC

yea its not a very good header all the paint already burned off of it

sideways-FC

ok got another problem big suprize I think my alternater is going bad. I took the car to go get some gas today. the gas station is like a mile up the road. on the way there it ran prity much how it usully runs. but when I went to start the car to leave the gas station. my battery was dead, and it was fully charged when I left. so I had to get a jump from some body. so we jumped it it fired up just fine. but on the way home my volt gauge was realy low, and the car was just luging along just berly pulling it self by the time i got to the hill just before my house it just berly made it up it. then I pulled in to my house It was idleing around 1100 instead of the 1500 I had it set to. and along this whole journy to the gas station it would want to die sometimes like not want to idle. and I would have to hold the gas to keep it running and when I pulled in to my house and shut it off same deal dead battery. so I gess I should take my altornater to get tested.I mean isnt that the simptums of a bad altornater.