LonglostFC

Hey there ,so my 1988 rx7 has sat for a while now and i took her apart a bit , pulled spark plugs out and noticed that the plugs that are leading were in trailing and trailing in leading so bought new ones and put some marvelM oil and turned the engine by hand and sounded good was pretty smooth and i can hear it hiss as it had some signs of alright ish compression .then i checked, the oil was ok,but and going to change oil and filter anyways ,drain the gas put new pump and filter .then i was going to change coolant but as i drained it it looked brown and real rusty ,opened the res and looked like the titanic so in other words it needs a flush a complete flush.going to get a new thermostat and gasket and try to drain it all out as much as possible before i even try cranking her over.what coolant and how should i go about it ?

LonglostFC

Looking at Atkins rotary koyo radiator but I’m not sure if i can use my o.e brackets along with the shroud.and i noticed the radiator i have in now has a radiator cap on it as well.going top get a new water pump and gaskets and new thermostat and gasket. Or should i do a flush and see what happens?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

You're on the right path for sure! You'll want to drain the gas tank and ensure proper operation of the fuel pump. They like to seize when they are left to sit. You can bridge the terminals on the yellow check connector by the right side strut tower in the engine bay. Turn the key to the on position and with the hatch raised and carpet pulled forward, listen for the fuel pump to be running. Bridging the terminals in that connector cause the fuel pump to run with the key in the on position. Its a fuel pump check connector.

You will also want to confirm that the injectors pulse with 12V applied. You can remove the injector and apply power and a ground to each terminal and listen for them to click when power is applied. They will click once when voltage is applied. You will want to apply voltage multiple times to confirm each on is pulsing. The audible click will be your confirmation. The injectors like to stick or seize. When doing this, it will enable you to replace your vacuum lines and dynamic chamber to intake manifold gasket. You can also go the extra mile and remove the injectors for testing and replace the seals and o-rings on each injector. If you are unable to free them, I have some tips for that. You may also want to consider sending them out to a company such as www.witchhunter.com for cleaning and flow testing.

Spark plugs (NGK only), wires, air filter, fuel filter, belts, coolant hoses, vacuum lines, fresh fluids, and a clean fuel system and you will likely be back up and running provided you have good compression. Other things such as clutch hydraulics, brake fluid flush, tires, brakes, shifter bushings, suspension bushings may need attention.

As for the radiator, I would flush the system. Definitely drain and flush the block. I would go from there before ordering a radiator and water pump. When you replace the water pump, you will also have to replace the water pump housing gasket. Keep that in mind for when you go that route. You can call Atkins and ask if the Koyo radiator they offer is a direct fit. I've seen some that are and you are able to retain the original fan shroud.

LonglostFC

I will sure flush the block . I bought a radiator from mazdatrix (are they trust worthy)i only bought because the radiator said s4 specific .and a thermostat and gasket I’m not sure what coolant to use ,i have seen guys say 5050 is good and some say use water . But i have a new fuel pump and new fuel filter i drained the gas and put new gas along with the fuel pump and fuel filter .i noticed when i put mystery oil in the spark pugs that the leading and trailing we’re backwards and others were fine (drove it that way for 1 year) .and the hoses look in decent shape that’s why i bought only the radiator and thermostat .ill see on the water pump later (baby’s first birthday coming up). But i bought new plugs will also put those in .oh and another thing ,my brake and clutch res was empty and the clutch peddle feels like there is a brick behind it (won’t go down) other then that i put a new battery and cluster says she’s getting 12ish volts ,lights popped up,sun roof works! Windows go up and down lights flip up blinker are on stereo work ,i got some work to do but hey I’m having fun .

LonglostFC

Put a battery in her and everything worked but driver window.
Here is an update after battery was in

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

For coolant I use Mazda FL22 coolant. Its already premixed and ready to roll.

As for the clutch hydraulics, one of two things is happening. Your clutch disc has rusted to the flywheel and will need some work to come free. You can also replace the clutch and pilot and throwout bearings as well. Most of the time you can get the disc freed up. The second thing or things are a stuck piston in either the clutch master cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder. They should be replaced as a pair and a new clutch hose and crush washer should be installed as well.