Any Hope left in this RX7? Why won't it START ALREADY?!?
05-05-12, 09:24 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Any Hope left in this RX7? Why won't it START ALREADY?!?
Prior to my purchase:
Background history of my FC 1987 Mazda RX7 1.3-B N/A. This is a farm car. It came from the country and the car has been running in 2009, and he said when he drove the car around the block, it would sort of "chug" or sort of shake at low RPM levels. The car has 102000 miles. After a year and a half or so of the car sitting around during winter and summer on the farm, he has done a compression test on the TOP spark plugs while leaving the bottom ones in the bottom. He said the the results were around the 80's consistently for both chambers. This was 5-6 months ago.
Also, he said that when he took the spark plugs out, put in a little oil and gas, put them back in, fires the engine, and the car would start. It would stop in 5 seconds (due to the fuel running out) , but judging from this I think its a fuel problem.
After my purchase:
OK, so I have a FC 1987 Mazda RX7 1.3-B N/A that is NOT running. A week ago, I tried starting it, but it wouldn't start. The engine turned over and the starter worked (teuh-tuh-tuh-tuh-tuh-tuh-tuh). The lights came on and stuff on the inside. The oil was EXTREMELY LOW and very brown. There was no gas, and the battery was close to dead. The person who gave me this car said that he has done a compression test on the engine not too long ago, except he did it with the two TOP spark plugs. Does it matter if he did it on the top, will I get the same result if I do it on the top? Should I do another test? I don't really want to...
And now..
And now...
I got myself a Haynes manual. I have recently changed the oil (10W-30 Castro GTX), put in a new oil filter and air filter in the car. I have taken the battery to be prepositionally re-charged, so now it's at full charge and ready to be put in and connected. There is good amounts of break flued left, and the antifreeze in the car is nice and full. I filled a 1/4 of the fuel tank, and checked all the belts to make sure everything is nice and solid.
IT DID NOT START.
What I'm suspecting: Bad fuel pump/leaky fuel injectors? Clogged fuel filter?
Flooding?
It can't be the starter/alternator/fuel pump, because the car is starting when he had the gas in the rotors and it fired up. And the fuel pump has NOTHING to do with it. It can't be a wiring problem either... or the car wouldn't start when he put the fuel in. So that means there is connection.
I don't know what else could be...unless its the compression. Should I do another compression test? I don't really feel like spending $30 on one just for a 1 time use only, so please...unless I am to get a different result if i measured t on the bottom plugs, lets steer away from asking me to do another compression test.
IS THERE ANY HOPE LEFT? I am so frustrated right now!!
Help me out guys, I'm in desperate need of assistance!
Please use baby-words.
Thank you!
Background history of my FC 1987 Mazda RX7 1.3-B N/A. This is a farm car. It came from the country and the car has been running in 2009, and he said when he drove the car around the block, it would sort of "chug" or sort of shake at low RPM levels. The car has 102000 miles. After a year and a half or so of the car sitting around during winter and summer on the farm, he has done a compression test on the TOP spark plugs while leaving the bottom ones in the bottom. He said the the results were around the 80's consistently for both chambers. This was 5-6 months ago.
Also, he said that when he took the spark plugs out, put in a little oil and gas, put them back in, fires the engine, and the car would start. It would stop in 5 seconds (due to the fuel running out) , but judging from this I think its a fuel problem.
After my purchase:
OK, so I have a FC 1987 Mazda RX7 1.3-B N/A that is NOT running. A week ago, I tried starting it, but it wouldn't start. The engine turned over and the starter worked (teuh-tuh-tuh-tuh-tuh-tuh-tuh). The lights came on and stuff on the inside. The oil was EXTREMELY LOW and very brown. There was no gas, and the battery was close to dead. The person who gave me this car said that he has done a compression test on the engine not too long ago, except he did it with the two TOP spark plugs. Does it matter if he did it on the top, will I get the same result if I do it on the top? Should I do another test? I don't really want to...
And now..
And now...
I got myself a Haynes manual. I have recently changed the oil (10W-30 Castro GTX), put in a new oil filter and air filter in the car. I have taken the battery to be prepositionally re-charged, so now it's at full charge and ready to be put in and connected. There is good amounts of break flued left, and the antifreeze in the car is nice and full. I filled a 1/4 of the fuel tank, and checked all the belts to make sure everything is nice and solid.
IT DID NOT START.
What I'm suspecting: Bad fuel pump/leaky fuel injectors? Clogged fuel filter?
Flooding?
It can't be the starter/alternator/fuel pump, because the car is starting when he had the gas in the rotors and it fired up. And the fuel pump has NOTHING to do with it. It can't be a wiring problem either... or the car wouldn't start when he put the fuel in. So that means there is connection.
I don't know what else could be...unless its the compression. Should I do another compression test? I don't really feel like spending $30 on one just for a 1 time use only, so please...unless I am to get a different result if i measured t on the bottom plugs, lets steer away from asking me to do another compression test.
IS THERE ANY HOPE LEFT? I am so frustrated right now!!
Help me out guys, I'm in desperate need of assistance!
Please use baby-words.
Thank you!
05-05-12, 09:32 PM
#2
Charge the battery good and run the de-flooding procedure a few times. THEN put some oil in the chambers (take the top plugs out and put some oil in). Crank it by hand a few times to build compression. Try again to start. Worst case, try a pull/push start with another car. That WILL work. If it does not, something is fubar. Perhaps the timing is very off, the plugs are kaput. Oh and did you ever change the FUEL filter?
05-05-12, 09:42 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Okay, the battery is good guaranteed.
So I need to do the de-flooding procedures? Then how do I put the oil and gas into the chambers? How much do I put?
Ohh and please elaborate how to crank it by hand, thank you!
So I need to do the de-flooding procedures? Then how do I put the oil and gas into the chambers? How much do I put?
Ohh and please elaborate how to crank it by hand, thank you!
05-05-12, 09:42 PM
#4
Do you have spark? Take one of the leading wire with teh spark plug still attached and place it near the nut for the shock tower so it can arc to it when you are cranking. if it arcs, you have spark.
Then check for fuel. near the afm, there is a yellow connector with two wires. Turn the ignition to on, and then connect a wire between the two connectors in that yellow connector. You should hear the fuel circulating throughout the fuel rails, it might be hard to hear it so you will need a quiet spot.
Last thing to check is compression. Take the leading plugs out (lower plugs) and then crank the engine. Do you hear a whoosh-whoosh-whoosh-whoosh? Or is it just nothing? if you dont hear the whoosh, the engine is probably flooded and you will need to pour oil into through the spark plug holes to build up compression. Put the leading plugs back in and take out the trailing (top) plugs, have a way to pour in oil. I use a flexible clear turbing and I pour in about 1-2 teaspoon of oil and crank the engine by hand (if you have space, get a 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and a rachet, if you dont have space to do that, you can get a 21mm?? socket on the alternator pulley and crank it from there in a clockwise direction) watching the oil being sucked into the housing (though it does also blow back at you if you are not careful). I do that for both housing and then install all spark plugs and try and start the engine. It will smoke a lot depending on what oil you use and how much. I sometime also use premix oil instead of regular oil.
Then check for fuel. near the afm, there is a yellow connector with two wires. Turn the ignition to on, and then connect a wire between the two connectors in that yellow connector. You should hear the fuel circulating throughout the fuel rails, it might be hard to hear it so you will need a quiet spot.
Last thing to check is compression. Take the leading plugs out (lower plugs) and then crank the engine. Do you hear a whoosh-whoosh-whoosh-whoosh? Or is it just nothing? if you dont hear the whoosh, the engine is probably flooded and you will need to pour oil into through the spark plug holes to build up compression. Put the leading plugs back in and take out the trailing (top) plugs, have a way to pour in oil. I use a flexible clear turbing and I pour in about 1-2 teaspoon of oil and crank the engine by hand (if you have space, get a 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and a rachet, if you dont have space to do that, you can get a 21mm?? socket on the alternator pulley and crank it from there in a clockwise direction) watching the oil being sucked into the housing (though it does also blow back at you if you are not careful). I do that for both housing and then install all spark plugs and try and start the engine. It will smoke a lot depending on what oil you use and how much. I sometime also use premix oil instead of regular oil.
05-05-12, 09:57 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Do you have spark? Take one of the leading wire with teh spark plug still attached and place it near the nut for the shock tower so it can arc to it when you are cranking. if it arcs, you have spark.
Then check for fuel. near the afm, there is a yellow connector with two wires. Turn the ignition to on, and then connect a wire between the two connectors in that yellow connector. You should hear the fuel circulating throughout the fuel rails, it might be hard to hear it so you will need a quiet spot.
Last thing to check is compression. Take the leading plugs out (lower plugs) and then crank the engine. Do you hear a whoosh-whoosh-whoosh-whoosh? Or is it just nothing? if you dont hear the whoosh, the engine is probably flooded and you will need to pour oil into through the spark plug holes to build up compression. Put the leading plugs back in and take out the trailing (top) plugs, have a way to pour in oil. I use a flexible clear turbing and I pour in about 1-2 teaspoon of oil and crank the engine by hand (if you have space, get a 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and a rachet, if you dont have space to do that, you can get a 21mm?? socket on the alternator pulley and crank it from there in a clockwise direction) watching the oil being sucked into the housing (though it does also blow back at you if you are not careful). I do that for both housing and then install all spark plugs and try and start the engine. It will smoke a lot depending on what oil you use and how much. I sometime also use premix oil instead of regular oil.
Then check for fuel. near the afm, there is a yellow connector with two wires. Turn the ignition to on, and then connect a wire between the two connectors in that yellow connector. You should hear the fuel circulating throughout the fuel rails, it might be hard to hear it so you will need a quiet spot.
Last thing to check is compression. Take the leading plugs out (lower plugs) and then crank the engine. Do you hear a whoosh-whoosh-whoosh-whoosh? Or is it just nothing? if you dont hear the whoosh, the engine is probably flooded and you will need to pour oil into through the spark plug holes to build up compression. Put the leading plugs back in and take out the trailing (top) plugs, have a way to pour in oil. I use a flexible clear turbing and I pour in about 1-2 teaspoon of oil and crank the engine by hand (if you have space, get a 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and a rachet, if you dont have space to do that, you can get a 21mm?? socket on the alternator pulley and crank it from there in a clockwise direction) watching the oil being sucked into the housing (though it does also blow back at you if you are not careful). I do that for both housing and then install all spark plugs and try and start the engine. It will smoke a lot depending on what oil you use and how much. I sometime also use premix oil instead of regular oil.
The spark plugs? Can you please explain the process a little further in detail? How do I take one of the leading wire with the spark plug still attached and place it near the nut... like I'm sorry but I don't know how to do that? Can you please explain in steps and what I am to do?
Also, what if I do not hear fuel circulating? AM I doing the procedure wrong?
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05-05-12, 10:43 PM
#8
Okay, please extend on everything you said.
The spark plugs? Can you please explain the process a little further in detail? How do I take one of the leading wire with the spark plug still attached and place it near the nut... like I'm sorry but I don't know how to do that? Can you please explain in steps and what I am to do?
Also, what if I do not hear fuel circulating? AM I doing the procedure wrong?
The spark plugs? Can you please explain the process a little further in detail? How do I take one of the leading wire with the spark plug still attached and place it near the nut... like I'm sorry but I don't know how to do that? Can you please explain in steps and what I am to do?
Also, what if I do not hear fuel circulating? AM I doing the procedure wrong?
If you can hear the fuel circulating, either the fuel pump is dead or something is wrong with the fuel setup. But to be absolutely sure the fuel pump works, take off the bottom hose to the fuel filter, and place it inside a bottle or container, jump that yellow connector for 1-2 seconds, and see if there is gas inside that container. If you have gas, the fuel pump works.
The fuel sock is in the fuel tank, its on the end of the fuel pump. it can get clogged if the fuel pump is very old and hasnt been replaced.
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