paulymc27

so, I'm getting ready to restore my 83 and I was wondering how long can the rotary sit outside without rebuilding the engine? (engine is still in car) and also any other tips or tricks that has been learned over the years would be nice too. Thanks.

Kentetsu

Run a search using the term "bringing a 7 back to life". There is a very detailed thread that should get you started down the right path. If I recall correctly, the thread is located in the 1st gen FAQ section.







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paulymc27

Thanks, I read the fourm alot of good info in it

paulymc27

So I did the manual spin test today...I grab the belt off of the pulley and pulled it, the engine was spinning with no problem.....so should i leave it alone or tear it apart to check for wear and tear, or possible a rebuild??? The car has been sitting for 5 years, and i might have started it maybe 3 times in the time it has sit. last time it was started was maybe 18-30 months ago, can't really remember.

paulymc27

https://www.rx7club.com/members/paulymc27-143943-albums-my-83-gsl-3408/


some pics of my gsl
take a look and let me know your thoughts.....or not. it's whatever.

Kentetsu

Hmm, okay. If this were my car, the first thing I would do is grab a can of Seafoam. Dump a couple ounces down the small (primary) barrels of the carb and let it drain in, rotate the motor slightly, then repeat. The object will be to get the Seafoam into each of the "combustion chambers". Then, let it sit for a few days....

...A few days later, with a fully charged battery: Remove one of the top spark plugs and remove the cables from the coils (to avoid sparking near the motor), have an assistant crank the motor over while you listen to it. Then repeat with the other spark plug removed, and the first one reinstalled.

You will be listening for an even, strong rythm to the puffs of air coming out of the spark plug holes. This will determine the condition of the apex seals.

Puff, puff, puff = good condition
Puff......puff, puff.....puff = a stuck or broken apex seal

The biggest concern here is a broken apex seal, or one that has become stuck due to sitting for a long time. An alternative method to this is to remove the exhaust manifold, then you can look inside the engine to inspect the seals. You can use the writing end of an unsharpened pencil to push on the apex seals to determine if they move freely.

If all of that checks out, then move on to a full rebuild on the carb. A carb kit can be had for about 30 bucks, and you can perform the rebuild in an afternoon if you are able to follow instructions. Great information on the carb can be found at www.sterlingmetalworks.com You will also want to get all of the old gas out of the system. If you don't have a drain on the bottom of the gas tank, then you either have to drop the tank or use the fuel pump to drain it by removing one of the lines at the carb.

Once you get the motor running, then move on to general safety items. You will probably have to turn, or replace, the brake rotors. A good source for replacements is www.rockauto.com Grab a set of brake pads and a new fuel filter (very important) while you are there. Flush the old brake fluid out and replace with something of reasonable quality. I highly recommend picking up a set of SpeedBleeders, they make the bleeding process much easier and damn near idiot proof (cost 20 - 30 bucks).

Conduct a careful inspection of all rubber hoses, vacuum hoses, etc. and replace as needed. If you don't have emissions testing where you live, then a lot of this stuff can be removed, rather than replaced. There are also a lot of components on the carb that can be removed if this is the case. There is a great thread, currently on the front page of the 1st gen tech section, which details how to do this. My theory is, if it ain't there, it can't cause you problems later.

Next will be a full inspection of the front end steering components. New bushings, tie rod ends, etc. will probably be in order. Look to Rockauto again for these.

You will also probably need new bushings all around. New shocks would also be a good bet. Look to www.re-speed.com for these items.

While you are doing all of this, keep in mind that you will want to be cleaning the hell out of anything that you can get at. If a part comes off the car, clean it up, maybe repaint it, etc. If you have steel parts with rust on them, you can soak them in Muriatic acid prior to primer/paint. Works great, and can be found at any hardware store. Cost is a few bucks per gallon. Use it at 50% strength, diluted with water. I cannot emphasize enough the value to cleaning everything, especially in the engine bay and the suspension parts.

After that, it will all depend on your intentions for the car. Daily driver? Weekend racer? What's the plan?

Hope this helps...






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paulymc27

yes, that helps alot. I will be trying that soon. but first i have to install the rear axle so i can push the car around so i can work on it. I had to pick up a new (used) at a junk yard, because mine was bent. so even if i can turn the pully on the engine, should i still seafoam it? and if i do the pencil thing on the apex seals should they move freely or not...?? I know i have to get all new everything brake system cause my is trashed. Like of the calipers broke when the accident happend and everything else is rusted on it ex. rotors, plate that holds the pad, bolts around the brakes... my gas tank has a plug on the bottom, but should i still drop it to clean it out completely or will the filter do the job for me? And for the sus. I am going to get all new stuff except for some of the watts links bars and some other small items that are still good- not rusted- I want to make it a fun weekend driver, just so you know. Thanks for all your help with everything. When I ran it for my daily driver it ran like a top. never had any problems with it whatsoever. was the best running car i have ever driven when i drove it. looking to hear from you soon.

Kentetsu

I would use the Seafoam regardless of whether or not the motor turns over. It will be good for the apex seals either way.

If pressing on the apex seals, they should move freely but with some spring-loaded resistance.

If you have the time and ambition to drop the tank, then you can take it to a radiator shop where they will boil it and reseal it, usually for a very reasonable cost. This could save you some problems down the road later. Otherwise, just drain it and replace the filter and you might be alright.

Good luck with your project.

paulymc27

I got a question about my 83 gsl.- it has been sitting for about 5 years and only started a couple of times by the way. I did the pully pull test to see if it was locked... it moved, but every so many pulls it sounded like metal was rubbing metal : more like thin aluminum bend back and forth: ~weird~ so the question is, should i just plan on rebuilding the engine or try all the seafoam, mmo, etc. to get it running again? the car needs a lot of work everywhere else...like suspension, brakes, almost everything in the engine bay is probaly going to get replaced, interitor needs to be restored, needs a couple of rust spots taken care of, wheels, tires, paint the list can go on....you get the drifft, thanks for all your input and advice it will mean a lot!!!!!!


so kentetsu, what do you think now?? or anyone one else that reads this post...? thanks again.

Kentetsu

I would move forward with the apex seal inspection through the exhaust ports. That will give you the best idea of how to proceed...

paulymc27

will it hurt the housing much if a apex seal is gone, when I moved the shaft to get around to all the apex seal to look at them, or moving it that slow will it not scrap into the housing?

Kentetsu

If you have a broken apex seal, then chances are that the housing is already scored. They don't break just by sitting, they break while running. So, you have nothing to lose by going ahead with the inspection...

paulymc27

hey...so I got some sea foam and put in down into the primarys and then pulled on the pulleys to turn the shaft....and as I did that I saw small amout of smoke or fumes coming back out of the primarys so is that good or bad? I thought it was weird.. let me know what are your thoughts are....

Kentetsu

That's just vapor. Normal.

paulymc27

ok, thanks for the info, it got me kinda of worried for a min. I don't know if you saw it or a nother thread, but I asked when I replace my axle do I need to tear it apart to inspect and clean the gears in the rear end or just drain it and put fresh fluid in it. Thanks for all the help man, your a good guy. looking forward to hearing from you. oh, and I love you videos from the autoxing good stuff.

paulymc27

Kentetsu

Sorry, had a busy weekend. Unless the rear end was making strange noises, I would just do a fluid swap on it. Once you start tearing the gears apart, it can get pretty technical and requires special tools and procedures.

paulymc27

hey, it's no problem that your busy. but I'm glad your back. I really appreciate all your help and knowledge. well, about the rear end... I don't know if it makes any noise cause I pulled it from a junk yard to replace the one I bent. so I guess I'll just have to wait and drive it to see. also do you recommend anything to paint with to keep the rust from coming back. I read a couple of things about the por15 stuff but don't know if it's good or not. this is what i did to the rear end of mine:

paulymc27

sorry if they didn't turn out, it's my first time posting pics on the fourm.

Kentetsu

Can't see the pics, but that might be due to the firewall here. I'll try to check again when I get home.

You can't go wrong with the POR 15 from what I've read. Several well respected forum members have used it with great results.

paulymc27

yeah, let me know if you can see the pics or not? so I know if i need to fix something or not. should I just go straight using the por 15 stuff or use the rust retro. stuff from auto zone? I want to do this car right. so I need to be sure about everything I do to it so I don't screw it up. You know what I mean? thanks for the advice, and also from reading other thread I've noticed that you are very knowledgeable about the first gens, and it is really nice to have you responding to my thread. Thanks.

Kentetsu

If I were doing it, I'd go for the rust restoration kit. Any leftovers will quickly be put to use on other parts as you work on the car...

paulymc27

were you able to see the picture now? are you talking about this restor kit? {Floor Pan & Restoration Kit} http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-Floor...-Kit-p-10.html

Kentetsu

Haven't had the time while at home to check this thread, so I have no idea if the pictures are working for you yet.

The floor pan kit is probably more than you need, unless you plan on doing your floor pans. If you just want to take care of the miscellaneous parts off the car, then you could probably get away with one or two of these kits http://www.stoprust.net/POR-15-Super...lack-p-15.html which are only $20.00 each.

paulymc27

yeah, thanks for that, 20 bucks sounds a lot better than 150.