i am wanting to replace my thermostat in my 88 na FC, i have read that you need to use a certain brand of replacement like oem or somthing like that if any one knows the proper replacement, any help would be apprecitated. thanks alot

 

OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = Mazda.

You can order one through Mazdatrix: http://www.mazdatrix.com/b9.htm, or from the Mazda parts department.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=jiggle+pin
read this above/\/\
and Other threads Found under "jiggle pin' with Search.

 

If removing the clutch fan an running an electric fan wouldent it be better if i remove the thermostat?

 

NEVER remove the thermostat.

 

yeah you dont want to remove your thermostat for any reason, it can cause serious damage. but yeah i looked into mazdatrix.com for the thermostat and it was a reasonable price so i will be ordering one soon from them thanks for all the info guys.

 

is mazda trix the only place that can order that thermostat? or can i just ask the part store here to make sure its one of the jiggly pin one?

 

You should look into buying one from ray crowe and malloy mazda. Best place to source OEM parts in my opinion.

 

u can get one from places like advanced or autozone. just make sure what u get looks like this:

 

i will use your photo as a guide to buying a new one hah hah thanks. yeah i have been looking on line and most of the parts store mainly mazda trix are fairly expensive. my parts store here locally has been doing a great job at gettin me everything i need for a fair price thank gosh.

 

The reason for not running without a thermostat is because when the thermostat is closed it traps water in the radiator allowing the water to cool as air is drawn through the rad .. when the thermostat opens at a predetermined temperature the water pump SUCKS the cooled engine coolant through the bottom rad hose and at the same time pushes the heated coolant from the top of the engine into the top rad hose and into the radiator ... the thermostat will remain open until the cooled coolant from the rad circulates through the engine when it reaches the thermostat and cools slightly the thermostat will close trapping more hot coolant in the rad beginning another cycle.. If the coolant is allowed to circulate freely through the engine and radiator the water is not trapped in the rad and does not cool properly allowing the coolant to creep to unwanted high temperatures in summer heat and cold temperatures in winter ... Most people think that a water pump actually pumps water but the truth is that a water pump actually sucks the water through the engine .. That is why quite often when there is problems with thermostats sticking you will see the top rad hose suck flat from the water pump trying to do it's job .. The reason for the jiggle pin is to let tiny bits of air escape from the engine preventing air lock and preventing the water pump to be able to suck the coolant from the rad into the engine .. All internal combustion engines create tiny air bubbles on the inside of the cooling passages . The height of the thermostat outlet housing,, height of inlet and outlet on the heater rad ,,and height of the inlet on the cooling rad and of course the type of engine and where the coolant storage tank is determines weather a jiggle pin type of devise is required.. on the thermostat

 

i use http://www.rockautoa.com they have the best prices against autozone and advanced well if buy more than one thing just saying

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

where did u get ur info on how the t-stat works? it's not a valve that opens and closes during operation. once up to temp, it opens and stays open, constantly circulating coolant thru the rad to keep the engine cool during it's operation. it will only close once the engine is shut off and the coolant cools down.

 

I just replaced the thermostat on my FD and purchased the replacement at NAPA. They always seem to have the basics for the 7. Also, you can change the temperature at which the thermostat opens (like at a cooler one!) by purchasing a thermostat that opens at a lower temp. If you also change the radiator cap, make sure that you replace with the same PSI rated cap. If you replace with at higher PSI one, the engine can run at higher temps without the coolant boiling, but all the hoses will suffer and could cause a failure that could prove the end of your engine.

 

The thermostat needs to open and close to keep the engine at a constant ,,it doesn't go from wide open to closed tight but it needs to vary the opening to maintain the correct temp it can't just stay wide open that would be defeating it's purpose..

 

Yes, the thermostat on an FC cracks open at ~180F, and is fully open at ~200F. The amount it is open varies depending on temperature.

 

Thank-you rotaryRocket

 

You can get one from advance auto parts and in order to compensate for the missing jiggle pin just drill a tiny hole where the jiggle pin would go. I have done this on rotaries and piston engines with no negative side effects. It's a simple cheap fix and you dont have to go drive off to a mazda dealer or order a jiggle pinned one online. Some people actually drill several holes to help out in higher performance engines running at idle (when choosing to still run a thermostat) (street vehicles).

 

if never remove the thermostat, as stated above, how do you replace it?

 

Never get a thermostat from advance or the likes. They are aftermarket and rarely work exactly right. Just go down to the Mazda dealership and get one. It will say "Mazda" right on the box. Or call Malloy Mazda in Virginia (703) 494-9121. Ray Crowe in parts will give you a good price if you mention RX7 club. Well I just noticed this was asked three years ago.

 

Drill a 1/16" hole in a cheap one. works great.

 

just drilling a hole in the thermostat is not the same as a hole with a jiggle pin . the jiggle pin is there for a reason as the air will not necessarily go up through the hole with out the jiggle pin , the pin allows the air to slip past and clear out . go buy a real one . Bad deal telling people to buy jobber thermo as they are just not the same . If you are going to buy the cheapo stat make sure when you drill the hole that it will be at the highest point when installed or it won't do **** and even then you should also make a jiggle pin FROM BRASS and crimp it into the hole so it moves freely.

 

It is SO Ironic that Guys "want the best for their RX7" but are too damn cheap to go out and get a 20 dollar OEM part that will save them 2500 in a rebuild.
The car will have coil overs and a 4 dollar thermostat!
Ultimately they end up selling their coil overs to get a seal kit to rebuild their engine.

That thinking at the EX-Lax Factory is called "a Real smooth move"...lol!

 

^ yep.