I am planning on putting on a header and removing some emissions controls from my 85 GS this summer. I have heard from an old Mazda mechanic that removing the air pump (and not the AC) is dangerous because the air pump belt produces opposite proportional force to the AC pump belt on the e-shaft. He said it can cause the e-shaft to break. Has anyone ever had problems with removing the air pump and keeping the AC?

I live in Nebraska-no AC would not be an option when it gets up to 106 in the summer.

 

I havent heard of that being a problem. However, I removed both since my AC didnt work and seemed like too much to make it work correctly.

 

The relationship between accessory belts/pulleys and the eccentric shaft is no different than that between belts/pulleys and a crankshaft in a piston engine. The shaft turns main pulley, which turns them. They're not going cause any kind of deflection in the e-shaft. If they did, you'd have tons of people that remove belts destroying their engines, and that just isn't happening.

 

is there a posting that gives detailed description on how to remove the air pump without running into problems? soemthing that tells you how to get around the pressure created to open the 5th and 6th ports. i was talking to a rotary junky today and he was telling me something about running braided lines from my modded exhaust that i plan on running. i wasnt 100% about what he was talking about. can anyone help explain what he was talking about?

 

Your info says you have an '86, so I'll gear this toward S4s.

On a stock S4, the aux. port actuators are pressurized by the exhaust. There is a small hose connected to the split air pipe, which runs to a metal hardline under the LIM. If you open up the exhaust at all (ie remove cats), this system will stop working. For this reason, the S4 backpressure system sucks. So, on an S4, the airpump has nothing to do with the aux. ports. It is S5s that use the airpump and solenoids to open the aux. ports and VDI.

 

ok so if i remove the stock exhaust how do i go about making the aux. port actuators work? because that stock stuff is getting ready to be replaced i just want it all to work when i remove it

 

I did it with the stock airpump (tapped into it for pressure), a summit rpm switch & an emissions solenoid. The switch can be set to open the solenoid at 3800 rpm, which allows air pressure to open the actuators.

 

the only problem with that is i plan on removing the air pump too...