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Am I right in assuming that this is due to a rear main leak? I have cleaned it up so far to the best of my ability (after picture was taken). Using multiple large cans of carb cleaner and engine degreaser ($30 worth at walmart!).
If it is the rear main, I have read some threads that say that I can replace the seal without taking the engine out. Any tips on doing this?
Also, what exactly do I grease when I put everything back together (and what grease), and what is the proper procedure for putting in the pilot bearing seal, I tried putting the old seal in, but that did not work out so well... I heard that it just pops in, but It wouldn't for me, I had to use a hammer and block of wood and that didnt work, bent the seal.
Any other small maintenance that I should perform while I have the entire underbody of the car disassembled? My water seals are leaking ever so slightly, so I am going to do major engine maintenance this time next year when I hopefully have the money to do so.
you can replace the seal without taking the engine out. The key points about installation are to clean the sealing surface and then lubricate both the surface and the seal with a light coating of oil. Never put the seal in dry. That said, if that photo was taken before cleaning, then the leak is not as bad as i've seen them and if you have to pull the engine next year anyway, then i don't see much harm in leaving the seal alone until you pending rebuild. it's your call though. cost wise, the seal is not of any consequence.
on the other hand, the pilot bearing is more of a need-to-do-it-now deal. again, clean everything and lube. you can use the old bearing or a socket to tap the new one and it's seal into the shaft.
I don't know...he's got the transmission and flywheel off, the rear main seal costs less than $15 last I checked and it takes a couple minutes to change. If he leaves it and it begins to leak worse it could soak a clutch disc.
OP if you do replace that seal be sure to clean the part of the FW that inserts into the seal.
I think I am going to replace the seal. Any good tutorials on doing that? I know there is a gear I am not supposed to turn, but I cant really find useful info on replacing the seal.
What do you mean by cleaning the part of the flywheel. How would I go about doing that? Do I need to drain the oil to change the seal?
I think I am going to replace the seal. Any good tutorials on doing that? I know there is a gear I am not supposed to turn, but I cant really find useful info on replacing the seal.
What do you mean by cleaning the part of the flywheel. How would I go about doing that? Do I need to drain the oil to change the seal?
You don't need to drain the oil or worry about any gear. And if you look on the back (forward facing) side of your flywheel it will be apparent where it inserts into the seal.
*Go to the nearest MAZDA dealer and buy a OEM rear main seal or use a vendor that sells them like Atkins 69-11 Rx7 & Rx8 Rear Main Seal (N3H1-10-508) I don't recommend using a chain parts store brand.
*Spray or soak some paper towels in brake cleaner solution and clean the surface of the rear side plate of all that dirt and oil.
*Remove the old seal. Carefully pry it out with anything suitable. Just be careful not to mar the metal wall of the sideplate that you'll be inserting the new seal back into. Save the old seal.
*Wipe clean that metal wall.
*Pull new seal from package, put a thin coat of clean oil on the outer surface of the seal.
*Carefully re-insert the new seal. You should be able to start it with your hand just enough to get it to stay.
*Place the OLD seal on top of the new seal. Use a small flat hammer (I use a sheetmetal hammer with a wide flat head) to gently and evenly tap the OLD seal sitting on top of the new seal until the new seal is sitting flush like it is in the picture you posted. (BTW, I use this same method when inserting a new pilot bearing and seal.)
*Use a clean rag to wipe the surface of the flywheel that inserts into your new seal. Put a film of clean oil on that nice clean surface before re-inserting the flywheel.
*Bolt up flywheel with Grade 8 bolts and torque to spec. (See FSM)
Done.
^Good catch, it's cheap too and easy. And like the rear main seal, it's covered in the FSM.
And one correction to my DIY post above...obviously you don't use bolts to secure the flywheel, you use the big flywheel nut with a little threadlock. I was thinking of the pressure plate grade 8 bolts when I posted.
If it broke don't try to fix it . Honestly I would leave the stationary gear oil ring alone if it's not leaking. It can become a hassle to get back in if you get any type of contamination on it . If the stationary does not go back on perfectly and you can end up with damage to the bearing . I'm not saying that it cannot be done I just advise against it . The rear main seal is another story definitely change it out nothing worse then a slipping clutch .
If it broke don't try to fix it . Honestly I would leave the stationary gear oil ring alone if it's not leaking. It can become a hassle to get back in if you get any type of contamination on it . If the stationary does not go back on perfectly and you can end up with damage to the bearing . I'm not saying that it cannot be done I just advise against it . The rear main seal is another story definitely change it out nothing worse then a slipping clutch .
I just did the rear station gear seal on my s5. Super easy. You just remove the six bolts in the picture above (around the eccentric shaft) and the gear comes right out. ThereS an oring around it. That's it. Put it back in and torque to spec
Changing a 10 dollar oring is worth not pulling that tranny off again. Just make sure you don't turn the engine over when the gear is out because you'll be fucked!
PS,
I think you meant "if it isn't broke, don't fix it"
11-04-15, 12:07 AM
Rear Main Leak? And some other small q's
