rear end help
10-11-11, 11:46 AM
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rear end help
i know there is alot of post on her bout rear ends. but i have a few questions on were i can some and what types i can use. the car i have a is a 88 NA i am swaping a turbo motor and tranny into it. for gauges i have boost gauge,5 into summit racing tac with oil pressure water temp and batter volt. and a after market gas gauge and speedo meter gauge. planning on custom gauge cluster instead of stock. what do you think? i have rajay turbo 1.x something a/r, 3 inch down pipe. 720 cc primary and 1600cc secondary. walbro pump rewired. short throw an a hpi copper mix clutch with a exedy pressure plate. what should i do anything with the spark side of the car? but to control it all a rtek 2.1 two palms. i have never tuned befor but would like to learn. but now my question i know i need a tii rear end but i have herd that vert rx7 have tii rear ends in them. could i use a rear end from a different car or truck or does it have to be from an rx7. im planning on putting all new bushing all the way around. and making a reliable fast car out of it. just dont want to be changing out rear ends all the time. any input or help would be nice. what should i do bout the rear end and were could i get one all the junk yards around here only have non turbo cars. so were else to look because shipping would be expensive to try to ship all those parts.
10-12-11, 10:38 AM
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Without knowing anything about the specs of the turbo it is hard to say. But based on those injector sizes, you are going for around 400 - 500 HP? The RTek isn't going to cut it. You need a proper standalone.
The NA rear end is reliable up until about 300 FT-LBs, at which point you can start to break stub shafts. 'Verts have NA rear ends just like every other NA RX-7.
If you are going to swap rear ends (if in the 400HP level then this would be a necessity) then your easiest installation is the TII unit. You can probably find one locally via your regional forum. You'll need the diff itself, and the half shafts. Bolts right in. Presumably you'll have a TII transmission so it will connect right up with the TII driveshaft.
The NA rear end is reliable up until about 300 FT-LBs, at which point you can start to break stub shafts. 'Verts have NA rear ends just like every other NA RX-7.
If you are going to swap rear ends (if in the 400HP level then this would be a necessity) then your easiest installation is the TII unit. You can probably find one locally via your regional forum. You'll need the diff itself, and the half shafts. Bolts right in. Presumably you'll have a TII transmission so it will connect right up with the TII driveshaft.
10-13-11, 07:18 AM
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well how much hp will the rtek 2.1 support. not really looking to spend a year worth of saving on just a stand alone. just looking to get it running now and make around 300-350 hp just enouph to kill the civics around my area. after colledge i will build it bigger and better but for now im just going mild. i can have a tii to na drive shaft built for next to nothing. my turbo is a rajay im going to do some more research on it and ill let you know the specs for 300-350 will the stock tii injectors and the 720cc be fine or should i go like 720 primary then 1000cc secondary? any help would be nice thanks aaron for your help.
10-13-11, 09:49 AM
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If a standalone is a year's worth of savings, then my suggestion is that you stop modding the car and save some money first. Then get back on the car. As you can buy a standalone for under $1000, I'm worried that you are seriously overstretching yourself financially if that is a year's worth of savings. Just some unsolicited (and probably unwanted and ignored) advice...
Anyway, you're aware that tuning big injectors on a RTek is going to be very difficult if not impossible, right? Because the RTek relies on correction maps instead of fully programmable fuel tables, you are limited on injector size to +- 37% of stock. Larger injectors will mean the car is too rich all the time. Now the RTek does support 720/720, which should be fine for the 300HP range. 350 shouldn't be an issue with higher fuel pressure.
Without knowing any specs of your turbo, I can't comment. However for the 300HP range you are well within the realm of hybrid stock turbos, like the BNRs. They bolt directly to the stock manifold.
Anyway, you're aware that tuning big injectors on a RTek is going to be very difficult if not impossible, right? Because the RTek relies on correction maps instead of fully programmable fuel tables, you are limited on injector size to +- 37% of stock. Larger injectors will mean the car is too rich all the time. Now the RTek does support 720/720, which should be fine for the 300HP range. 350 shouldn't be an issue with higher fuel pressure.
Without knowing any specs of your turbo, I can't comment. However for the 300HP range you are well within the realm of hybrid stock turbos, like the BNRs. They bolt directly to the stock manifold.
10-13-11, 12:09 PM
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ok it would be more like a couple of months but i guess i just spent 500 on the rtek so didnt really want to get rid of it but i guess if i need to i will. but maybe for now ill just tune down low for now and im still looking for turbo specs. not looking to make killer hp just something to have fun in
10-14-11, 10:38 AM
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ok it would be more like a couple of months but i guess i just spent 500 on the rtek so didnt really want to get rid of it but i guess if i need to i will. but maybe for now ill just tune down low for now and im still looking for turbo specs. not looking to make killer hp just something to have fun in
Or, just spend 15 minutes with some sheet metal, a jigsaw and a drill.
And don't, for any reason, eliminate the BAC. The BAC is what is used by the ECU to control the idle. You gain nothing and lose quite a bit by removing it.
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10-14-11, 12:01 PM
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what gauge sheet medal should i use. and ill see bout the bac if i dont gain anything from it then there is no reason to take it off. thanks for this info and as far as the turbo goes i guess its an airplane turbo. but used on cars also i already have the aftermarket manifold and waste gate. it uses the big flange on my manifold. i have a manuel boost controller. i need to get this car done befor my senior year of prom this year just want something to smoke the tires coming out of the area of prom. not going to rush a project though. thanks for all the info aaron
10-14-11, 01:20 PM
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I think you have unrealistic expectations if you want to put together a 350 rwhp reliably tuned, random airplane turbo'd, self-mapped, reasonably budgeted car in about 6 months. I'd suggest sourcing a stock or hybrid turbo and smaller injectors, that way you can actually get your car started and running. Then move on to tuning it. With a full standalone, you'd have to create all your maps from scratch for a an unknown turbo. Aaron probably could do it, but he is far more skilled than the average mechanic. If all you want is smoke just put on the skinniest tires you can find and light em up.
I'm not telling you to stop, just re-evaluate.
I'm not telling you to stop, just re-evaluate.
10-15-11, 12:33 AM
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ill post some pictures up when i can take some good ones thank you everyone for posting on here and giving some advice i guess i have alot to think bout befor i really start busting ***** on the project.
10-20-11, 01:35 PM
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picked a low millage tii rear end lsd and drive shaft n half shafts all for 250 thought that was a pretty good find now all i have to do is get my intercooler and my injectors figured out. and how to download the rtek tunning program to my palm and the few little things like put car back together but other than that im on the road to success finally
10-21-11, 10:05 AM
#14
Good job finding the TII drivetrain and not a bad deal either. Are you still planning on running the airplane turbo? If so, list some measurements and you can get an idea if it's going to work or not. Turbo sizing isn't just "bigger is better".
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