Raise the Redline RPM?
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Raise the Redline RPM?
this may be a very stupid question, but is something ive never known..
WHat raises the Redline of an engine?
say your cars redline starts at 8500, what mod or mods would you do to make it higher?
Is it simple replacing of parts with more durable ones??
WHat raises the Redline of an engine?
say your cars redline starts at 8500, what mod or mods would you do to make it higher?
Is it simple replacing of parts with more durable ones??
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There's the artificial redline on the tach that is more about durability and wasting time spinning than it is about the engine's real redline. You raise that by dialing the **** up on an aftermarket tach, drawing a new redline on your stock tach or pulling the over-rev buzzer so you're not over-revving anymore.
The real redline, at its most basic component, is about airflow efficiencies of the engine's intake and exhaust tracts. Improve them and the engine spins faster to its new redline. When it dies, you just went past its new redline...how long you want the engine to last at that new redline is where component upgrades becomes necessary. It might turn out you haven't hit the real redline yet once you have those new components in...and so it goes....
Mario III
The real redline, at its most basic component, is about airflow efficiencies of the engine's intake and exhaust tracts. Improve them and the engine spins faster to its new redline. When it dies, you just went past its new redline...how long you want the engine to last at that new redline is where component upgrades becomes necessary. It might turn out you haven't hit the real redline yet once you have those new components in...and so it goes....
Mario III
Last edited by mar3; 10-18-09 at 09:09 PM.
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If you want to raise the redline of the engine, you need to start by rebuilding it. The rotating assembly needs to be balanced and depending on how high you want to go, you may require a two piece eccentric shaft with a center support bearing. The rotors should be lightened and you'll need to run the clearances a little looser on the seals.
Deep groove rotor bearings, hardened stationary gears, three window bearings and higher oil pressure.
You will need to replace the stock intake manifold because it's out of breath, probably going to something like an IDA setup with short runners.
You'll need a full standalone to control the engine.
Deep groove rotor bearings, hardened stationary gears, three window bearings and higher oil pressure.
You will need to replace the stock intake manifold because it's out of breath, probably going to something like an IDA setup with short runners.
You'll need a full standalone to control the engine.
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i see...how exactly would the two piece eccentric shaft work?? isnt it just one long one that runs through both rotors?
also mar3, you said its also time wasting revving higher. is your opinion based off the fact that after a certain RPM, the power and torque drop? To correct that.....do they have turbos designed to work at higher RPM's??
also mar3, you said its also time wasting revving higher. is your opinion based off the fact that after a certain RPM, the power and torque drop? To correct that.....do they have turbos designed to work at higher RPM's??
Last edited by mar3; 10-20-09 at 11:06 AM. Reason: killd quote since reply was back-to-back to post in question...
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Aaron's advice is spot-on for reliability at high rpm's...not everyone will run the two piece eccentric for whatever reasons they have. If running the 2 piece eccentric, na or in a "boasted" engine, then you can tighten the tolerances...at your own risk.
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