Proud new owner!!
#1
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Proud new owner!!
Hello all, hope you dont mind me stopping by!
My names daniel and i have just taken delivery of a 93 FD3S RX7.
I am new to the world of rotarys, and even petrol cars to be honest, so was wondering if I may ask a few questions.
I did a bit of research before purchasing and had some one do a compression test for me. Came back with readings of mid 7's which the guy said was ok.
The car is stock as far as I can tell except for a dirty great stainless steel decat exhaust that sounds like thunder!
The car goes like a train and pulls up to the red line with ease. However after the 100 mile drive home I got in to stop start traffic near my home and it wouldnt idle correctly and kept stalling. It would restart no problem, but would stall again.
Is this to do with the exhaust system? There is also a strong smell of petrol when stationary. Would this also be to do with the exhaust?
Does the car just need a bit of a tune to allow for the exhaust?
The only other issue I have is the oil pressure gauge not working correctly, I am on to this through and have ordered a new sender unit, but have one question. Do I need to drain the oil to change it or can I just pop the new one in?
Many thanks for your help
Daniel
My names daniel and i have just taken delivery of a 93 FD3S RX7.
I am new to the world of rotarys, and even petrol cars to be honest, so was wondering if I may ask a few questions.
I did a bit of research before purchasing and had some one do a compression test for me. Came back with readings of mid 7's which the guy said was ok.
The car is stock as far as I can tell except for a dirty great stainless steel decat exhaust that sounds like thunder!
The car goes like a train and pulls up to the red line with ease. However after the 100 mile drive home I got in to stop start traffic near my home and it wouldnt idle correctly and kept stalling. It would restart no problem, but would stall again.
Is this to do with the exhaust system? There is also a strong smell of petrol when stationary. Would this also be to do with the exhaust?
Does the car just need a bit of a tune to allow for the exhaust?
The only other issue I have is the oil pressure gauge not working correctly, I am on to this through and have ordered a new sender unit, but have one question. Do I need to drain the oil to change it or can I just pop the new one in?
Many thanks for your help
Daniel
#2
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Congratulations, and no one minds you stopping by. A couple of points...
If you're asking a technical question about the car, post up a list of any major modifications. And remember your audience. You mentioned a de-cat. Here I think those are referred to as a mid-pipes. You won't pass MOT without one, but I don't think it has anything to do with stalling. Probably the idle air control or dash-pot. Also we use PSI here, not bar. If you can, do the conversion. Go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and spend some time reading through all the FAQ's in the stickyes for more info. A small piece of advice....if your car isn't heavily modded, proceed slowly and cautiously.
These cars tend to idle rich, particularly when cold. You don't have a cat. Both could explain the fuel odor.
Little or no INDICATED oil pressure is a common problem. It could be the sender, but it also could be just a dirty connection. There's a single spade connector on the sender that tends to get fouled because it's right underneath the oil filter. At idle the signal is weakest and sometimes doesn't get through. If that's your issue, clean the connection and see what you get. If you still have to change the sender, you don't have to drain oil first.
If you're asking a technical question about the car, post up a list of any major modifications. And remember your audience. You mentioned a de-cat. Here I think those are referred to as a mid-pipes. You won't pass MOT without one, but I don't think it has anything to do with stalling. Probably the idle air control or dash-pot. Also we use PSI here, not bar. If you can, do the conversion. Go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and spend some time reading through all the FAQ's in the stickyes for more info. A small piece of advice....if your car isn't heavily modded, proceed slowly and cautiously.
These cars tend to idle rich, particularly when cold. You don't have a cat. Both could explain the fuel odor.
Little or no INDICATED oil pressure is a common problem. It could be the sender, but it also could be just a dirty connection. There's a single spade connector on the sender that tends to get fouled because it's right underneath the oil filter. At idle the signal is weakest and sometimes doesn't get through. If that's your issue, clean the connection and see what you get. If you still have to change the sender, you don't have to drain oil first.
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#10
You might just look around for leaks. I picked up a supercharged Miata last year that smelled like fuel when it was idling and the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator was leaking all over the place. Congrats on the car.
#18
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Congrats! I have the same issue with the oil gauge acting funny at idle. I am gonna go outside and clean the contact right now!
Thanks for the great tip Sgtblue.
-David
Thanks for the great tip Sgtblue.
-David
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Congratulations!!! You'll soon realize the love of driving a Rotary Machine!! I'm super jealous!
I would also recommend that you replace all the small consumable items if you haven't already. (Spark plugs, spark plug wires, all lubricants, filters, etc.)
Welcome!
I would also recommend that you replace all the small consumable items if you haven't already. (Spark plugs, spark plug wires, all lubricants, filters, etc.)
Welcome!
#21
Full Member
Little or no INDICATED oil pressure is a common problem. It could be the sender, but it also could be just a dirty connection. There's a single spade connector on the sender that tends to get fouled because it's right underneath the oil filter. At idle the signal is weakest and sometimes doesn't get through. If that's your issue, clean the connection and see what you get. If you still have to change the sender, you don't have to drain oil first.
Thanks again Sgtblue
#23
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Congratulations on the purchase! I love my fd. Just curious on how that person compression tested your engine. I worked for a mazda dealership for a number of years and the compression test is very different then a normal pistion engine. The tester must be able to measure each face of the rotor which is generally done by a very expensive electronic unit although theres a couple back yard mechanic ways to do it. Also 7 what unit of measurement is that? Bar? If that is the unit of measurement thats about 102psi which isnt bad its a little low min. Spec i believe is 84psi or 5.7 bar. The test should have been done on a hot engine as well. When does the car stall? Hot? Cold? When you push the clutch in? Look at the fuel pulsation dampers know to leak and cause fires. Bad fuel pressure regulator could be the issue. Really theres a few things that could be the issue they could also be related.
#24
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Congratulations on the purchase! I love my fd. Just curious on how that person compression tested your engine. I worked for a mazda dealership for a number of years and the compression test is very different then a normal pistion engine. The tester must be able to measure each face of the rotor which is generally done by a very expensive electronic unit although theres a couple back yard mechanic ways to do it. Also 7 what unit of measurement is that? Bar? If that is the unit of measurement thats about 102psi which isnt bad its a little low min. Spec i believe is 84psi or 5.7 bar. The test should have been done on a hot engine as well. When does the car stall? Hot? Cold? When you push the clutch in? Look at the fuel pulsation dampers know to leak and cause fires. Bad fuel pressure regulator could be the issue. Really theres a few things that could be the issue they could also be related.
I don't have any starting issues at the minute, however I m beginning to suspect I may have blown water seals. Hmmm!