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Old 04-29-13, 02:41 PM
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Proud new owner!!

Hello all, hope you dont mind me stopping by!

My names daniel and i have just taken delivery of a 93 FD3S RX7.

I am new to the world of rotarys, and even petrol cars to be honest, so was wondering if I may ask a few questions.

I did a bit of research before purchasing and had some one do a compression test for me. Came back with readings of mid 7's which the guy said was ok.

The car is stock as far as I can tell except for a dirty great stainless steel decat exhaust that sounds like thunder!

The car goes like a train and pulls up to the red line with ease. However after the 100 mile drive home I got in to stop start traffic near my home and it wouldnt idle correctly and kept stalling. It would restart no problem, but would stall again.

Is this to do with the exhaust system? There is also a strong smell of petrol when stationary. Would this also be to do with the exhaust?
Does the car just need a bit of a tune to allow for the exhaust?

The only other issue I have is the oil pressure gauge not working correctly, I am on to this through and have ordered a new sender unit, but have one question. Do I need to drain the oil to change it or can I just pop the new one in?


Many thanks for your help

Daniel
Old 04-29-13, 04:33 PM
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Congratulations, and no one minds you stopping by. A couple of points...
If you're asking a technical question about the car, post up a list of any major modifications. And remember your audience. You mentioned a de-cat. Here I think those are referred to as a mid-pipes. You won't pass MOT without one, but I don't think it has anything to do with stalling. Probably the idle air control or dash-pot. Also we use PSI here, not bar. If you can, do the conversion. Go to the 3rd Gen. Section and download the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and spend some time reading through all the FAQ's in the stickyes for more info. A small piece of advice....if your car isn't heavily modded, proceed slowly and cautiously.
These cars tend to idle rich, particularly when cold. You don't have a cat. Both could explain the fuel odor.
Little or no INDICATED oil pressure is a common problem. It could be the sender, but it also could be just a dirty connection. There's a single spade connector on the sender that tends to get fouled because it's right underneath the oil filter. At idle the signal is weakest and sometimes doesn't get through. If that's your issue, clean the connection and see what you get. If you still have to change the sender, you don't have to drain oil first.
Old 04-30-13, 08:51 AM
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congrats on your new FD
Old 04-30-13, 02:38 PM
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I would love a Fd but still out of my price range. 1 Day i hope.... SOON!! I currently have a FC 87 S4 NA With some modifications
Old 05-02-13, 08:52 AM
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Thanks for your advise, im sure ill be back soon
Old 05-02-13, 06:00 PM
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Congrats and enjoy it!
Old 05-02-13, 10:48 PM
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They are nice .. have fun with it .. i wanna learn about them
Old 05-02-13, 11:42 PM
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congrats
Old 05-03-13, 12:18 AM
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congats!!!
Old 05-03-13, 08:53 AM
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You might just look around for leaks. I picked up a supercharged Miata last year that smelled like fuel when it was idling and the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator was leaking all over the place. Congrats on the car.
Old 05-03-13, 12:49 PM
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josh

I'm a proud new owner too. 1990 GXL FC with blown apex seal. Starting a V8 sbc swap. If anyone needs parts let me know.
Old 05-03-13, 01:32 PM
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Jelly of the FD
have fun with it
Old 05-06-13, 01:54 AM
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Have fun with your FD!
Old 05-12-13, 12:02 AM
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congrats on your purchase!
Old 05-12-13, 10:36 AM
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Try adjusting the idle air control... My name is Daniel as well haha
Old 05-12-13, 02:22 PM
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congrats! hope you take great car of it : ]
Old 06-18-13, 09:33 PM
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How exciting. Have fun driving.
Old 07-21-13, 07:40 PM
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Congrats! I have the same issue with the oil gauge acting funny at idle. I am gonna go outside and clean the contact right now!

Thanks for the great tip Sgtblue.

-David
Old 07-21-13, 09:32 PM
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Congratulations!!! You'll soon realize the love of driving a Rotary Machine!! I'm super jealous!

I would also recommend that you replace all the small consumable items if you haven't already. (Spark plugs, spark plug wires, all lubricants, filters, etc.)

Welcome!
Old 07-21-13, 10:05 PM
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Congrats on fd. I also just bought a fd I'm just having trouble doing anything on this website it's asking me for# of post to do anything ?
Old 07-22-13, 06:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Little or no INDICATED oil pressure is a common problem. It could be the sender, but it also could be just a dirty connection. There's a single spade connector on the sender that tends to get fouled because it's right underneath the oil filter. At idle the signal is weakest and sometimes doesn't get through. If that's your issue, clean the connection and see what you get. If you still have to change the sender, you don't have to drain oil first.
This fixed my erratic oil pressure indicator!

Thanks again Sgtblue
Old 07-23-13, 07:54 PM
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Congrats boss!
Old 07-25-13, 08:55 AM
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Congratulations on the purchase! I love my fd. Just curious on how that person compression tested your engine. I worked for a mazda dealership for a number of years and the compression test is very different then a normal pistion engine. The tester must be able to measure each face of the rotor which is generally done by a very expensive electronic unit although theres a couple back yard mechanic ways to do it. Also 7 what unit of measurement is that? Bar? If that is the unit of measurement thats about 102psi which isnt bad its a little low min. Spec i believe is 84psi or 5.7 bar. The test should have been done on a hot engine as well. When does the car stall? Hot? Cold? When you push the clutch in? Look at the fuel pulsation dampers know to leak and cause fires. Bad fuel pressure regulator could be the issue. Really theres a few things that could be the issue they could also be related.
Old 07-25-13, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by jported13b
Congratulations on the purchase! I love my fd. Just curious on how that person compression tested your engine. I worked for a mazda dealership for a number of years and the compression test is very different then a normal pistion engine. The tester must be able to measure each face of the rotor which is generally done by a very expensive electronic unit although theres a couple back yard mechanic ways to do it. Also 7 what unit of measurement is that? Bar? If that is the unit of measurement thats about 102psi which isnt bad its a little low min. Spec i believe is 84psi or 5.7 bar. The test should have been done on a hot engine as well. When does the car stall? Hot? Cold? When you push the clutch in? Look at the fuel pulsation dampers know to leak and cause fires. Bad fuel pressure regulator could be the issue. Really theres a few things that could be the issue they could also be related.
The guy had the proper mazda piece of kit, it does read in bar.

I don't have any starting issues at the minute, however I m beginning to suspect I may have blown water seals. Hmmm!
Old 07-25-13, 06:34 PM
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congrats, am saving up for my eventual first rotary. good luck and enjoy.


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