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I purchased my FD last spring with some known cooling issues. It came with the Peter Farrell intercooler but was missing the duct and the undertray. I have since added an undertray and radiator panel from LRB Speed. Now I want to know the best and most cost effective way to fix my piping and IC situation. Given that I do not want to relocate the battery and the PFS duct is next to impossible to find without the IC, what is my best option? I also want to maintain A/C. Can I buy some other duct and modify it for the PFS? Could I purchase a v-mount radiator only so that hot air doesn't blow toward the Apexi intake?
Pettit Racing offers just the duct in two different sizes for the FD. You might give them a call for the exact dimensions but guessing the smaller one would be closest to what you need.
>https://pettitracing.com/search?q=Duct
Once ducted it’s a decent SMIC IMO.
If you keep those open intakes at some point consider Pettit’s heat shield to help shield air off the radiator. It will help source the air from the nose but to the side. —-> https://pettitracing.com/products/tk...15a33e05&_ss=r
Easiest/cheapest way is to modify a stock duct. You can then use that as a template to make out of fiberglass or aluminum.
Also is that cap on the coolant filler neck also a pressure cap, hard to tell from the picture? A long while back Mazda dropped the pressure cap to 0.9 bar or 13psi I believe, which is only located on the AST. The filler neck should have a standard cap, no spring. If high coolant temps are still an issue, try changing the pressure cap to make sure its still providing the right pressure in the system.
Last edited by Brekyrself; Mar 14, 2020 at 02:32 PM.
Reason: Added cooling info
Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm going to reach out to Pettit to see if they still make the cool charge II intercooler.
George, do you happen to have the stock radiator duct? I might be interested when we meet up to exchange parts. Also, this is an older pic of my engine bay I have since deleted the AST.
I know it’s not what your asking about, but since you’re dealing with cooling and seeing the (former) location of your AST prompted me to ask...do you have an idler pulley to replace the air pump pulley since it’s removed? Even with the other pulleys under driven, it keeps good belt contact on the water pump.
Depending on your situation it may not be a super high priority. Just something you could think about. Belt slippage tends to cause people to over tighten, which causes other issues. YRMV.
I run the FFE setup on my cars, quality product. If you remove the airpump you will absolutely require an idler pulley otherwise the belt will slip on your water pump as there is not enough contact area.
Alex, text me anytime, I have an extra stock duct you can have to start fabricating one for your setup.
^Thanks for catching that. I forgot about FFE. I kind of wish there was something wrong with my Garfinkle for an excuse to replace it. The older early design is so big...but the damn thing was well made.
