I purchased an 87 turbo II, hasn't been moving since i bought it. Something wasn't right with the clutch. Found that the master and slave cylinders were sckrewed, so I replaced those. After that, it got like half a pedal. It didn't feel right at all, half of the clutch pedal travel was free play and about the last 1/4 till the floor felt like a crap pedal.

I decided to pull the trans to see if the clutch disk was rusted to the pressure plate, which it was... but here is the question i have.

It has a stock throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and pressure plate, but under that was an act 4 puck unsprung performance clutch and an xact 8lbs lightweight flywheel.

Shouldn't it have a performance pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing too?

I'm thinking that could be my problem. Any input?

 

What a terrible combination of parts for a street car. I can't even imagine trying to drive that thing every day.

If the car is stock, then a stock replacement clutch is the best way to go, as well as a stock flywheel.

 

Please stay on topic. The motor has a wild street port, 2mm 2piece atkins apex seals, etc. so this isn't a daily driver.

My question still stands... will a stock pressure plate and throwout bearing be ok to use on a 4 puck unsprung clucth or does it require a high performance pressure plate and bearing?

and will a stock clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing be ok to use on an 8lbs lightweight flywheel. if so I will purchase a clutch kit from mazda with my discount.

 

You need the correct PP disc combo. Throwout bearing with most kits is simply a stock unit.. pilot should be fine -just inspect it and replace if necessary (stock as well).
you might be able to drive on that combo -but it will not last.

I have the ACT 6 puck with HD PP and love it... don't get an Ebay clutch... go at least ACT quality.

 

that would explain my problem. thank you. I'm prolly going to lean towards stock clutch kit on the lightweight flywheel seeing as the pressure plate itself from act is 400+ dollars. LOL! i'll save the 4 puck for later.

 

In theory if the 4-puck matches the layout of the stock pressure plate, you can use them together. How nicely they will operate together is another question - I've never tried it. I also assume that they are both new - I never mix/match used clutch parts, even new with used.

The 4-puck design allows the use of a higher-friction material in the disc. The pressure plate has the springs that squeeze the disc. The combination of higher friction and heavier springs determines your total torque capacity and driveability. I suspect that using a 4-puck with stock PP will result in something like the poor driveability of the 4-puck with only a moderate increase in torque capacity above stock.

I'd go with a stock clutch unless your power output demands it. Too much clutch is hard on the drivetrain and is uncomfortable to drive. If you want to save money, get an Exedy (Daiken) and you'll get OEM parts for a lot less money.

 

Just make sure you don't buy too little of a clutch or else it will slip. Research your mods and get an estimated HP/TQ Number ad buy and appropriate clutch.

FYI, Freeplay and pedal position can be adjusted in the pedal area.

 

Please post relevant info like this when you first ask your question, as it helps us provide a much better answer. Otherwise we rightfully assume that it's a stock or near stock car.

 

I got my complete kit for $440