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Oil System STILL leaks

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Old 03-18-18, 09:46 PM
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Question Oil System STILL leaks

Removed the stock cooler line, put -10 A/N Fittings and hose. Changed the oil filter and pedestal o-rings. All of that went fine and well, but the Oil Level Sensor started dripping fairly constant. Very Glad I order every seal and crush washer for the whole oil system. I am going to need them. It seems like fixing the leak from the FMOC, made it leak at the oil pan sensor. Worried about dowel pin leakage because it would require teardown to seal.
My time in the driver's seat versus my time laying under with a wrench, is on a minutes/hours ratio.
I have already spent more time laying under this car than any other car I have, and I just bought it in January. I rebuilt the carb, new starter, 0GA battery cable, plugged the water ports and changed the intake gasket. I am determined to fix the car. I secured another set of housings and irons to build a nice new motor but the cost will take me awhile. Although Fel-Pro has a soft seal set now for the water jackets and etc, and it is a considerable savings to buy rotor stuff separate, and build a rebuild kit. I am young and new to rotary, but I am determined to make the car driveable, I bought the car to learn to drive stick, and I need more practice.
Old 03-19-18, 09:20 AM
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Well you bought a car that needed repairs. Either you didn’t spend enough time evaluating the car before the purchase or you bought it knowing about the issues. Either way, not sure why you seem to be complaining. Not familiar with the earlier generations but don’t see a connection between the oil cooler line and the oil level sensor leak. Given the work involved I would not go cheap on soft seals.
Old 03-19-18, 11:51 AM
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Oil pans are common for leaking on all rotarys also
Old 03-19-18, 12:58 PM
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i'm sure there were better choices out the to buy for learning to how to drive stick. and why buy a car needing repairs for the reason u bought it for?
Old 03-19-18, 03:30 PM
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I bought the car because it was a rotary, and it ran. I was sold, there are 5 running rotaries in the county here, Me and 4 Rx8's. I only rode in the car as a passenger before I bought it. My dad drove us out here to the backroads, and I learned stick the day I bought it, me and dad went for a couple drives, he told me I was good enough at the gearbox to drive on my own, And thats when the leaks got progressively worse. I solved some here and there,but I have to re-redo the intake gasket(forgot the o rings), and I rebuilt the carb and it still leaks some fuel, Greatly reduced leakage though, down to a safe to drive level, except the oil yet. It has a new water pump/thermostat from the last owner. It runs great after the carb rebuild.
The Previous owner was very straightforward, as to the oil leaking, and all the problems that he was aware of. I bought the car knowing it needed the work, sorry to sound complaining. Oil pan seems ok for now. I had the same conversation with Conor (last owner), yeah I could've got a better car for dailying, but I have a yota for a daily driver, the Rx7 beats the hell out of a stick shift honda, for the price. I love the rotary I am planning a 12A turbo build for the car. I acquired a set of irons and housings to build a spare keg, my motor runs great, but I may have to rebuild it first due to dowel pin leakage if its really bad. It seemed like it was running down the front iron last I ran it, but it was dripping from the pan level sensor. Will run it again today or tomorrow, and know if the oil pan or dowel pin are leaking?
Old 03-19-18, 05:14 PM
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Ran it again today. It is the endless oil leak. The oil pan is dripping a bit, but the dowel pin on the front iron, is peeing oil down the side... It's pretty bad. I think the diagnosis unfortunately is a teardown. I wanted to build a rotary engine, It's just gonna happen sooner than I had originally intended. It needs o rings and soft seals, and with almost 140 on the odo, may as well put new rotor seals, to save another rebuild down the road.
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