salex

Continuing on what I know will be a long road to restoration, I've run into my latest problem dealing with what appears to be a warning buzzer going off, no warning light on cluster, and what appears to be no oil pressure.

I've had a couple other posts dealing with an intermittent not cranking problem and an overheat problem. After recovering from those problems I took a break for a few days getting ready to attack what appears to be a rear brake caliper that is sticking. I started it up yesterday to move it a little in the car part and looked at the oil pressure, which I've been doing since it seemed to be low since I changed the oil. It appeared to not be registering. The warning buzzer went off, but there was no warning light (fluid low).

I first noticed what appeared to be a low pressure when I changed the oil that had been in the sitting car for 6 years. I drained the oil, removed filter and let it drain for a long time. I added a 5 quart oil change kit and noticed the capacity was just shy of 6 quarts, figuring I'd be a quart low, but the dip stick showed full, in fact over full by 1/8 inch or so. The oil seems to be fairly clean so don't think there was a quart stuck in some hole (oil cooler?).

When the buzzer when off and no warning light I shut down. Tried a couple more times and started my research.

I have not tried an oil pressure gage at the sensor yet. Before I started down a path I thought I'd post what I'm observing and see if I can get any suggestions. The buzzer with no light is what has me confused. It could go back to the theft system which is not working (also air bag system disabled). While I've seen some references to oil pressure warning, I don't see it in the wiring diagrams, just low fluid level.

tia

salex

Just bumping this since it appeared on second page when it was allowed by a moderator.

Maybe a simple question is "What triggers the warning buzzer without warning light?" Does the warning buzzer trigger an event that I can listen to the codes?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Not to sound like a 'Meany' but You have to Mention your car's series.(year).We can't just assume you have a certain RX7.
Anyways I looked on your profile and see 1991.
The buzzer is hooked up to many things.
Seatbelt,oil level,Coolant level.
You jumped into this car after 6 years of storage.You have to start checking Everything.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

^ +1 for car info. Sometimes you can get away with it in the gen-specific sections, but the newbie area is a mix of everything. Have you tried pulling any codes? Do all your warning lights illuminate when you start the car? AFAIK, the only buzzer that doesn't have a warning light is the rev warning buzzer and apparently the theft deterrent sytem.

The oil pressure sender is located below the oil filter and the wire connector to it can easily be knocked off or have a dirty connection. This results in inaccurate gauge readings. Very common issue.

I've never messed with it, but the theft detterent system is outlined in the Body Electrical Chapter of the FSM availabe at http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rx7manual

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

To answer your question about the missing quart: yes the last quart is your oil cooler. When you do an oil change, it only takes 5 quarts unless you drain the oil cooler as well, in that case it will be 6 quarts.

salex

Thanks for the info. I'll have to go read the FAQs again in case it is in there.

salex

Sorry for forgetting the year or series. While I had links to other messages, I wanted to go back and edit the message to add 91 vert, but couldn't edit it until it was posted.

Thanks to all for the replies and I realize that I've going to have many problems after 6 year of storage - even more evident after I went out to check a couple things suggested. When I saw no oil pressure and buzzer, I shut down the car. I've been working on a stupid boat for the last few days and was waiting to see if I got any posts before I started back on it. It is 102 today but though I'd at least check the connection on the oil pressure sender. Jiggled what I thought was it and then went to start the car - completely dead battery. Nothing left on, but I did leave the key in the ignition.

I'll have to wait a day and see what else I can find, check codes etc. All my warning lights come on when you turn the key on except the theft system. My air bag flashes because I took the air bag module out when the mounting bracket broke above the clutch/brake. The washer light may also be missing, can't find a light layout for a convertible.

salex

As has been mentioned in numerous post referencing the oil pressure sensor, it was a nasty mess down there. Cleaned the bottom side of the engine with some engine degreaser and high pressure water (hoping not to dislodge anything). Cleaned the connector (which was still very greasy) and put it back on.

I figured this was about a 1 in 4 chance of working and I was lucky because on startup I got 30psi at idle - this from a 21 year old sensor.

While the battery was still charging and before the cleaning with the degreaser, I was going to check the pressure. Turning on the key I got 5 short beeps that repeated. This happened after the first time I got the car started a few weeks ago. Power steering computer getting false engine speed or something. This is just with the ignition on, not running. I was not happy getting another strange problem out of the blue. For grins I put my air bag module back in and no more beeps. Not sure that is what stopped the beeps but the wiring diagrams have all these references in different areas (with air bag system and without air bag system), maybe it is more important than I thought.

During this last couple checks, I did not get a warning buzzer with no warning light, but then there is tomorrow. I figure I have some shaky connections and/or sensors and it is just going to take a while to track them down.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Make sure that the oil level sensor at the oil pan isn't intermittently grounding, and that the coolant level sensor on the rad isn't intermittently losing ground. The associated light in the cluster may be worn out. An intermittent buzzer is normally the coolant sensor, in my experience.