thunder_sti

I use Royal Purple, AMSOIL, Red Line and/or Motul.

mazdaracer78

valvoline vr1 20w-50 in the engine... valvoline marine 2 cycle for premix... and redline synthetic from the transmission back... i have tried royal purple, and in my opinion... it SUCKS... once upon a time it was good until they started outsourcing their ingredients and quality control went to sh&@...

as far as running a good synthetic in the engine... i'm against it. i feel it's a waste of money. why you may ask? because synthetics are designed to last far longer than a rotary engine will allow them to. what i mean by this is that rotary engines have internal blow by. not much, but enough to smell gas in the oil at 2500 miles. so in my opinion, if you have the money to throw away, run synthetic and be on the lookout for the smell of gas on your dipstick around 2500 miles.

i hope this helps and honestly this was a veeeeeeeeery long post to read on oil choices...

btw... give it a sticky!

mazdaracer78

thanx icemark for shear stability test chart (i'll put it to good use)...

and lastely, all this talk about oil preferences, what about oil filter preferences? any takers?

tribeofjudah

'

What about those apex seals going bad?

tribeofjudah

Nice looking convert in your avatar. I'm having trouble with mine....

mazdaracer78

thanks for the vert comment...

funny you should say something about wornout apex seals or poor compression...

i got almost 3.5 years of borrowed time on the first engine in my vert by premixing the heck out of it... 64:1 hehe the only problem i had was fowling plugs every few months...

hope this helps...

mazdaracer78

if you were wondering about apex seals becoming damaged from premixing or synthetic... make sure it's clean burning... believe me it was covered thoroughly in this write...

btw...

what problems are you having with your vert?

Matthys333

iTrader: (5)

I could never trust synthetic in a rotary. Why risk it? They've always said stick to dino oils, plus nobody needs more unnecessary problems with they're car taking an unnecessary chance

mazdaracer78

in my tranny and diff... hehe

Elhaym135

I have been running with Red Line in my 1990 S5 Gxl for 3years now, works excellent.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

I have been in the rotary game since 1998, primarily around FDs, so boosted applications.

As a past full time shop owner and present part time engine builder at this point I've probably torn down 200 motors and built about a quarter of that.

Many of these cars ran synthetic and I saw zero evidence of any internal damage whatsoever. I've been running synthetic in my personal FD since 2001.

I also warranty customer's motors that use synthetic, in fact I recommend it's use.

Jeff5808

iTrader: (7)

I was talking about carbon build up using both premix and the mop. But I'm no expert, so this may not be a concern at all. In post #82, mazdaracer78 states that he used 64:1 premix and suffered from fowled plugs every few months. At the very least I would say this could be a concern from running both the mop and premixing.

I don't think carbon buldup on the turbos is a problem, but I haven't had my 7 for very long and I'm still learning.

Hope this answers a few of your questions,
Jeff

stophie

iTrader: (-1)

ok. i'd like to say thanks to all of you for your input. i think i speak for more than a few of you when i say i'm taking everyone's opinions and making the best out of all of them.

i'm still a newb my self, everyday learning more that i really don't know about these machines.

and i would like to know about filtering. i've stuck to k&n or napa gold (wix) filters to maintain pressure and for good filtration.

and i think i'll stick to my royal oil, and use some premix in my upcoming t2 swap, just to help prolong it's rough life to come.

one more thing. i did this without thinking about it. i bought some 112 octane leaded gas, and put that 2 gal in with my 4 gal of 91. does that leaded gas help at all for the housings/seals?

mazdaracer78

k&n is the best filter i've used first hand... @ 2500 miles there tends to be a far less smell of gas in the oil... also, the filters have a much higher oil pressure rating...

as far as leaded vs. unleaded fuel...? not sure... i do know the higher the octane, the more advanced you can run your timing. in other words, higher octane helps prevent detonation...

hope this helps...

stophie

iTrader: (-1)

well, the higher octane does prevent detonation, but thats because it burns cooler and cleaner. there's less junk in it to make carbon deposits and create the hot spots for detonation. the lower octane burns hotter, but has less btu content, so less energy.

i'm just worried about the leading.

tribeofjudah

Ok, a little off topic but does anyone know if BG 44k is ok to put into the rotary engine....? Goodness, those engines seem too sensitive to use additives, etc...

stophie

iTrader: (-1)

what is that? i've never heard of it

mazdaracer78

thanks for explanation, stophie, even though i didn't ask for one...

i have used BG 44k over the years with no ill consequences... keep in mind, though, if you are trying to clean your injectors, with an additive, the inline injector filters may be too clogged for this to work. if this is the case, the best bet is sending them off.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

I didn't, and i'm an idiot.

Enough said.

Well, i'm not an idiot, i just feel like one at times. Now i ask shitloads of questions and try to read more. I did remember hearing that somewhere when i googled premixing and which oil to buy, hence me buying cheap *** heavy oil.....

I'll use synthetic and disable the omp for my next oil change. I dunno if switching back and forth is a good idea though........

stophie

iTrader: (-1)

nah, when i need to clean my injectors, i flow them and rebuild them at napa where i work. no labor cost.

and what is bg44k?

tribeofjudah

Thanks...sorry I'm a newbie so I have posted one similar on another thread. My vert in the avatar - bogging down, as if it's not getting enough fuel.

I'm hearing things like:
1. TPS problem
2. rebuild my injectors
3. cats are blocked and now allowing proper exhaust
4. bad compression - buy new engine (forget about it)

I simply cannot punch the gas anymore - if I accellerate slowly, it's just fine. It still goes 95 mph in 5th...no problem. Just can go fast and race around... It just boggs.

mazdaracer78

by the way (stophie)... bg 44k is a fuel injector cleaner additive. in my opinion, it's only good as preventive maintenance. hence the name 44k.

mazdaracer78

if a rotary engine is going bad, it's usually a hot start issue due to poor compression, or it usually smokes to high heaven... those are the most common. the third would be a coolant wall failure. and the most hated... a thrown apex seal. you can use an analogue piston style compression tester in the leading plug holes if you know how to read it...

1ROTOR2NV

I know this was a couple pages back but it appears in the viscisity chart that the Royal Purple gear oil does not fair very well, does anyone have any information on their synthetic motor oil, like a 20w50 ?

adeenoki

I agree with 20w50 castrol or synthetic since i can't afford the synthetic though heh, i'll go with the good old stuff