which oil is good to use?
12-24-08, 05:54 PM
#52
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k.. i just read that its ok to use synthetic... but ill probably stick with mobile 1...
with all the oil talk... what about mixing 2cycle engine oil in?
i herd its good to do and lbricaits the seals better...
can some one elaborate on this or show me a link...
just used he search but dident get any hits...
by the way with oil's does the rx7 matter
fc fd fb?
with all the oil talk... what about mixing 2cycle engine oil in?
i herd its good to do and lbricaits the seals better...
can some one elaborate on this or show me a link...
just used he search but dident get any hits...
by the way with oil's does the rx7 matter
fc fd fb?
12-29-08, 09:41 PM
#55
People put 2-stroke oil in their tank in a practice known as "premixing"
The 13b has a metering oil pump that squirts oil directly into the housings keeping the rotor seals lubed and it comes directly from the oil pan. This oil is not collected and is burned in the combustion cycle. Some people disable their oil metering pump. One less thing to worry about failing on you provided you keep up with the premixing. Premixing saves on sump consumption, you just have to remember to mix in the right amount of 2-stroke oil when you fill up at the pump.
I'm new to rotor engines but i'm learning more and more daily and dont think i'll ever stop learning about this unique engine.
If i were to decide which oil to use (synthetic or mineral) i would base it off of whether or not i'm using the m.o.p. or not.
Mineral oil burns alot better than synthetic. If you're on stock oiling, i recommend regular, if you're premixing, use synthetic since it wont be burned in the combustion chamber. I wonder if anyone has done any tests on a rotary with both setups tested over the same amount of time and then a teardown to compare wear and carbon buildup. I wonder which would be cleaner.
As far as my personal car, i'm doing a full change after i fix a pan leak using dirt *** cheap 10w40 advanced auto brand oil. I use a pure one filter though....always. Pure one filters are cheaper and actually filter your oil where as fram filters you're paying extra for the orange paint they put on it. They dont filter worth a **** either. I wish i could find the website where they tested all the common oil filters on the market but fram was on the bottom of the list.
The 13b has a metering oil pump that squirts oil directly into the housings keeping the rotor seals lubed and it comes directly from the oil pan. This oil is not collected and is burned in the combustion cycle. Some people disable their oil metering pump. One less thing to worry about failing on you provided you keep up with the premixing. Premixing saves on sump consumption, you just have to remember to mix in the right amount of 2-stroke oil when you fill up at the pump.
I'm new to rotor engines but i'm learning more and more daily and dont think i'll ever stop learning about this unique engine.
If i were to decide which oil to use (synthetic or mineral) i would base it off of whether or not i'm using the m.o.p. or not.
Mineral oil burns alot better than synthetic. If you're on stock oiling, i recommend regular, if you're premixing, use synthetic since it wont be burned in the combustion chamber. I wonder if anyone has done any tests on a rotary with both setups tested over the same amount of time and then a teardown to compare wear and carbon buildup. I wonder which would be cleaner.
As far as my personal car, i'm doing a full change after i fix a pan leak using dirt *** cheap 10w40 advanced auto brand oil. I use a pure one filter though....always. Pure one filters are cheaper and actually filter your oil where as fram filters you're paying extra for the orange paint they put on it. They dont filter worth a **** either. I wish i could find the website where they tested all the common oil filters on the market but fram was on the bottom of the list.
... or what would be better with a single turbo conversion?
12-31-08, 03:47 PM
#61
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
That is clearly incorrect. As covered earlier, the majority of synthetics burn just as clean and at or under 500F (considerably lower than the actual combustion temp of a piston engine, well alone the sometimes 1800F of a rotary engine).
There are quite a few conventional mineral oils (many of valvoline and havoline products) that actually burn with considerably more residue and ash than 99% of the synthetic oils out there.
Both Ted (Reted on this board) and I have done that, ripping apart motors with anywhere from 50K to 150K, and seen the differences between engines that have been pre-mixed their whole life, or used conventional oils, or have used synthetic oils their whole life. Both of us have been working on rotary engines since the 70's.
Premixed motors used with synthetic oils will generally have the least amount of wear in both the rotor housings and the bearing surfaces.
Worst wear with be with non pre-mixed motors with low weight oils (such as conventional 5W20 or 5W30 oil use). You tend to see considerable accelerated bearing surface wear using those post 1990 Mazda recommended weights.
There are quite a few conventional mineral oils (many of valvoline and havoline products) that actually burn with considerably more residue and ash than 99% of the synthetic oils out there.
I wonder if anyone has done any tests on a rotary with both setups tested over the same amount of time and then a teardown to compare wear and carbon buildup. I wonder which would be cleaner.
Premixed motors used with synthetic oils will generally have the least amount of wear in both the rotor housings and the bearing surfaces.
Worst wear with be with non pre-mixed motors with low weight oils (such as conventional 5W20 or 5W30 oil use). You tend to see considerable accelerated bearing surface wear using those post 1990 Mazda recommended weights.
01-02-09, 08:04 PM
#66
im going to be running amsoil 10/30 ( im thinking of running 20/50 if i get the fd) and 75/90 in the tranny in a fd i might be geting and if i dont get it im going to put it in a 88 vert tii swap. no mop removal il llet you know how i do. and fyi if you havnt knowticed the lack of mobil oil on the shelves its because they currently do not meet the sae standards for car warrantys there useing a grad 3 base insted of their previous grade 4 to save prodution cost. correctme if im wrong i work for valvoline and they tend to be bias.... valvoline il is good but is def not my first choice
01-04-09, 11:14 PM
#69
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01-05-09, 12:17 PM
#71
The bottle will tell you how much to mix with each gallon of gas. The Idemitsu Synthetic blend premix I use says .5oz for every gallon.
Why would you want to run premix if you are keeping the mop? If you are afraid that the mop might fail, just disconnect it. It's safer, and you wont waste money burning double the amount of oil you need. So just run premix, with no mop.
01-05-09, 12:27 PM
#73
yeah, if you're suggesting that i'm the one that reads the thread, ive done that. at least 4 times. but, premix was not discussed in depth from icemark.
and i'm searching the forum for premix threads, and only learning that people can't seem to stick to the subject of the thread.
so, i'll be cutting the omp out of the pic, and running premix.
and would it be so bad for me to keep the omp and premix?
and i'm searching the forum for premix threads, and only learning that people can't seem to stick to the subject of the thread.
so, i'll be cutting the omp out of the pic, and running premix.
and would it be so bad for me to keep the omp and premix?
01-05-09, 08:28 PM
#74
yeah, if you're suggesting that i'm the one that reads the thread, ive done that. at least 4 times. but, premix was not discussed in depth from icemark.
and i'm searching the forum for premix threads, and only learning that people can't seem to stick to the subject of the thread.
so, i'll be cutting the omp out of the pic, and running premix.
and would it be so bad for me to keep the omp and premix?
and i'm searching the forum for premix threads, and only learning that people can't seem to stick to the subject of the thread.
so, i'll be cutting the omp out of the pic, and running premix.
and would it be so bad for me to keep the omp and premix?
No, it would not be so bad to use both, but I would worry about carbon build up from burning so much oil. I'm not an expert, so this may not be a concern at all, but I was always told there is such a thing as too much of a good thing. It just doesn't make sense to me that you would want to run premix with the mop/omp. Using premix kinda defeats the purpose of running the omp. Both will lube the seals, but premix is a surefire way to ensure the seals are getting oil. You don't have to worry about the omp failing, so why use it at all if you are premixing? Premix will oil the seals just fine without the omp.
Hope this helps,
Jeff
01-06-09, 05:46 PM
#75
hhhmmmm. thanks, jeff. i'm just wanting to be a little over protective of this new motor that i'm getting. so i'm thinking about running like 1/2 oz/gal just because i'm hard on engines. and my newer motor is a turbo.
that carbon buildup shouldn't affect the turbine, does it? i wouldn't think so since there's others that do straight pre-mix.
that carbon buildup shouldn't affect the turbine, does it? i wouldn't think so since there's others that do straight pre-mix.