The "DC" voltage at the ECU is minimal and really doesn't tell you much. You might want to check to see if the Grey ground wire is indeed grounded and if the CAS were pulled and w/key to on and the wheel was spun it would cause the primary injectors to click and this would also cause the spark plugs to fire as well if things were good to go on that end. If you disconnect the wiring plugs to the coils, leading has just the one plug w/two wires while the trailing coil has two electrical plugs, and this will prevent the plugs from sparking if they were working so you can reduce the sound created so as to focus on the clicking that the primaries should make.

 

you forget i have a noid light on an injector, but i will once again check it when i get home

 

Not sure what you're trying to convey here, but you need to make sure the CAS wiring is correct. The Grey wire is the ground for the CAS and not the injectors. If this wiring is not correct that can prevent the injectors from firing as well as the plugs.

 

a noid light is a light that is designed to light up when an injector receives power or pulse which means i don't need to hear the injectors pulse i can see it, and i am at work so i will check when i get home

 

um, where is this grey ground wire you speak of?

 

Each of the CAS wires has a metal sheathing that surrounds the wire. So look at the Emission harness as it approaches the ECU and look for the CAS wires, White, Green and Blue. You should be able to locate these wires and its associated Grey wire that bundles these metal sheathings together.

 

Yup is grounded

 

And can you clarify what you mean when you purchased an ECU that would run a U.S. car.

 

It has been chipped

 

What I was alluding to is if it didn't run a U.S. car before what kind of car did it run? Perhaps a JDM?

"so i bought an n374 that had been modified to run a US car"

 

it has run a us car before

 

Never mind man I just checked the CAS with an osciloscope and both sensors are not puting out a pulse, I also checked the resistance and the were below 100 m ohms, they should be around 165 ohms. =(

 

You might want to disconnect the AFM and w/the fuel check connector jumpered try to start the car. Check for spark and that your noid light is doing what it's suppose to do.

 

Did you test it at the ECU or from the CAS pigtail?

EDIT: If it was at the ECU then the plug at the CAS might be poor. If the test was at the CAS pigtail then your CAS is obviously the problem and not the wiring/connectors.

 

tested it at the pigtail

 

I know you don't enjoy having a faulty CAS, but congratulations to you for solving your own problem. Touche!!! Drop another CAS in and your problem will more than likely be solved.

 

Yup, that's what I'm hoping for, and thanks for all of the help